Series 2 My brakes are utter crap

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I guess most people haven't driven anything 'heavy'.
Couple of years ago, had to ring up about car insurance on the rr.. have you given a rr before sir? Yes, why? Oh it's just because they are a lot bigger and heavier than a regular car...
 
Completely agree re modern driving, its very heavy on brakes and wastefull.
Very true, although the advent of hybrid/EVs will recover the energy that gets wasted in conventional brakes.

Although it's more than just braking...it's anticipating the road and other road users, better. My everyday car is a heavy auto saloon, but I got 90k miles out of the brakes...
 
Very true, although the advent of hybrid/EVs will recover the energy that gets wasted in conventional brakes.

Although it's more than just braking...it's anticipating the road and other road users, better. My everyday car is a heavy auto saloon, but I got 90k miles out of the brakes...
anti..sipper.. what? modern snowflake drivers are anti everything :rolleyes:
accelerate up to the junction/obstacle until you need to brake break, knock it into neutral and stomp on the stop pedal
 
Thanks all for your input, I've just bought two sets of these.....
Screenshot_20201126-163144_eBay.jpg


So we'll see if there's any improvement when they're fitted....
 
Re your pulsing brakes are your wheel bearings adjusted correctly ie not to slack.
Try jacking each wheel in turn and rock the wheel top to bottom rears should have little or no movement, fronts may have more if they do get someone to apply the brakes if still same amount it is king pins.
Thinking being the extra movement of bearings will keep the trailing shoe further away from the drum so more pedal travel to apply the brakes
 
Re your pulsing brakes are your wheel bearings adjusted correctly ie not to slack.
Try jacking each wheel in turn and rock the wheel top to bottom rears should have little or no movement, fronts may have more if they do get someone to apply the brakes if still same amount it is king pins.
Thinking being the extra movement of bearings will keep the trailing shoe further away from the drum so more pedal travel to apply the brakes
They should be but it'll certainly check them when I get the wheels off
 
You're right about younger people braking differently. They drive differently too, cars are appliances and driven like a computer game car.
Series brakes can be just fine without a servo, never had a problem with my 2A fully loaded and towing a boat
The reason for this is that is now what young people are taught to do now as part of the driving lessons and test. When I took my hgv test a couple of years ago I was told off for engine braking and changing down gears (taken in a manual just before they changed the rules to say you could take the test in an auto and drive manual as long as you could drive a manual car!). The "the engine is for going, the brakes are for stopping" was what I was told and that changing down and engine braking was incorrect. If that is what they are teaching people learning to drive there is no surprise they only use the brakes and then brake hard.
 
The reason for this is that is now what young people are taught to do now as part of the driving lessons and test. When I took my hgv test a couple of years ago I was told off for engine braking and changing down gears (taken in a manual just before they changed the rules to say you could take the test in an auto and drive manual as long as you could drive a manual car!). The "the engine is for going, the brakes are for stopping" was what I was told and that changing down and engine braking was incorrect. If that is what they are teaching people learning to drive there is no surprise they only use the brakes and then brake hard.
They also teach and say this in Advanced Driver training. When I did my test, the examiner was a police driving instructor. I questioned the braking technique (after he said I'd passed) and he just said something about brakes being much better than the old days and it being expensive to replace a clutch compared to brake disks. I still use engine braking though. I've only ever had to replace one clutch in 46 years of driving and that's only cos it was already worn when I bough the car

Col
 
The reason for this is that is now what young people are taught to do now as part of the driving lessons and test. When I took my hgv test a couple of years ago I was told off for engine braking and changing down gears (taken in a manual just before they changed the rules to say you could take the test in an auto and drive manual as long as you could drive a manual car!). The "the engine is for going, the brakes are for stopping" was what I was told and that changing down and engine braking was incorrect. If that is what they are teaching people learning to drive there is no surprise they only use the brakes and then brake hard.

They also teach and say this in Advanced Driver training. When I did my test, the examiner was a police driving instructor. I questioned the braking technique (after he said I'd passed) and he just said something about brakes being much better than the old days and it being expensive to replace a clutch compared to brake disks. I still use engine braking though. I've only ever had to replace one clutch in 46 years of driving and that's only cos it was already worn when I bough the car

Col
and this is where 'instructors' don't have a clue. Brakes are indeed hugely better than the drum brakes of yesteryear, but thats no excuse for not anticipating the road ahead and braking hard at the last minute. brake pads are cheaper than clutches, but to suggest thats a valid reason for not slowing using the gears suggests the instructors no longer have a clue how and engine, gearbox or clutch work. As we all know, taking your foot off the accelerator does not cause clutch wear, changing gear does not wear the clutch, or wear out the gearbox/engine.
I've never replaced a clutch, I've done an advanced driving course a few years ago now and at that time was taught to use engine braking o_O
 
and this is where 'instructors' don't have a clue. Brakes are indeed hugely better than the drum brakes of yesteryear, but thats no excuse for not anticipating the road ahead and braking hard at the last minute. brake pads are cheaper than clutches, but to suggest thats a valid reason for not slowing using the gears suggests the instructors no longer have a clue how and engine, gearbox or clutch work. As we all know, taking your foot off the accelerator does not cause clutch wear, changing gear does not wear the clutch, or wear out the gearbox/engine.
I've never replaced a clutch, I've done an advanced driving course a few years ago now and at that time was taught to use engine braking o_O
I have replaced my clutch quite a few times, but never because it is worn out, always because I have split the engine and box for something else and it makes sense while I am in there to do the clutch. I am also sure part of it is to do with modern cars stopping distances and how hard modern brakes are capable of stopping when needed. Moderate braking on a modern car is probably the equivalent of hard braking on an old Landrover. So we have to brake very hard to not run into the car in front where as far as the occupants of the that car are concerned they did not brake hard or late but well within the capabilities of the vehicle..
 
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I was at an inter service event [ jolly ] Us Coastguards, Ambulance, Police, and Fire at a local RAF base.
After a jolly good feed from the RAF rescue squadron someone suggested we all had a spurt up the runway to see how much we could get from our assorted vehicles. It was quite a sight .
The Police had brought along their latest toy, A hotted up Rover Sterling that left every thing standing. Went for a run in it with the police driver, the fastest I have been in a car at over 150mph. The driver then said hold on and demonstrated the ABS to the limit. The way that car hauled up was amazing, good job we had our seat belts on or we would have been out of the screen
I just told the officer not to do that if I am following him in my series cos I would end up in his boot.;)
 
I was at an inter service event [ jolly ] Us Coastguards, Ambulance, Police, and Fire at a local RAF base.
After a jolly good feed from the RAF rescue squadron someone suggested we all had a spurt up the runway to see how much we could get from our assorted vehicles. It was quite a sight .
The Police had brought along their latest toy, A hotted up Rover Sterling that left every thing standing. Went for a run in it with the police driver, the fastest I have been in a car at over 150mph. The driver then said hold on and demonstrated the ABS to the limit. The way that car hauled up was amazing, good job we had our seat belts on or we would have been out of the screen
I just told the officer not to do that if I am following him in my series cos I would end up in his boot.;)
If you were following in your series, you'd probably still be'getting there'
 
Its bread and butter to me when at work. I cant brake hard any time even with newer drivers slamming on at will.
The good news is we are instructed to drive over anything that causes a potential emergency stop situation.
If I slam on and injure passengers its our insurance that pays. If they give me no chance of avoidance their insurance coughs up. :)

Makes the occasional nob head very brave indeed. After all. I wont have to fix the bus, I wont have to pay, I will have another identical vehicle to drive within the hour and my insurance wont go up. ;)
 
Mine stops on a sixpence, and in a dead straightline,'69 88.
The cutting of the wing is not needed if ,as rob has written, the smaller,correct servo is fitted,
The best upgrade is not discs,power steering and all that palaver but to put a dual system with an 11" tls setup on the front,not only for stopping power but for safety,eg line failure etc,new snail adjusters and posts are a must,
Atb and seasons greetings,
Ryn,
 
Hi guys.
Can anyone help me?
What would the part numbers be for front and rear brake shoes this would be for a 1967 109 military,

also bleed nipple for the front shoes are at the bottom would it be easier to swop to the top?

Also I will try one of those eezi bleed, my brakes pull to the right and needs pumping until it eventually
stops.
 
I did this to my series 3 109 and as far as I recall it was just a case of swapping slave cylinder positions.
Then replumbing, Flexi pipe goes to bracket on top of the swivel, then hard pipe to lower slave and then second hard hard pipe to the top slave which has the bleed nipple. Made bleeding a lot simpler.
 
Get the numbers off Paddocks (or other) website of google for parts pages. Buy Borg&Beck, they are much better, higher friction. I fitted a set recently and i can lock the wheels. Bleed nipple top or bottom? neither is easy, just get a bleed adaptor and easibleed and back the adjusters off fully before bleeding
 
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