Rebuild or replace?

Hi
Im going to be looking at a 1992 RR Classic next week.
It only has 120K miles on it.
Its been overheating and now wont start.

His local garage have condemned the engine, without inspecting it! So he wants a second opinion.
Im pretty familiar with the TD5, but this is my first foray into a V8!
I've read up on the possible issues, my initial thoughts are liner issues causing blown head gasket/s.

We are in Estonia so its very unlikely that we can find another engine here, so my thoughts are:
1) Write off the vehicle and sell it for spares.
He doesn't want to do this, they are getting more sought after and he's attached to it!
2) Buy a used engine in the UK and ship it here.
But it could have the same fault/s!
3) Buy a reworked short engine from Turners.
Nice but over his budget
4) Rebuild his engine with new (Turner Eng) liners and have the block machined here to fit them.
This may be the preferred solution. I've roughly estimated the total bill incl my time to be £1k to £1.5k

Does anyone have any thoughts on option 4? Or any other suggestions?
Thanks
Mark

the 3.9, 4.0, 4.2 and 4.6 engines all have the same bore just different stroke
my car has the 4.0 and i needed a replacement engine, think it had a crack in the block that only gave problems a full operating temp. the replacement is good, but needs new tappets/camshaft having put a few miles on it
is it carbs or injection? when you say won't start, what do you mean exactly? wont turn over? cranks but wont fire, or pops and bangs but wont run
has it been compression tested?

Hi
Not viewed yet but I think its injection. Turns over but wont fire.
Was smoking heavily (not been told if it was blue. white or black smoke) when it did run.
Started using "lots" of water.
Misfired when it was running.
I've just found the RPI Eng site which has a pretty hand guide to checking the engine.

ok sounds likely its the headgasket/s letting coolant into the cylinders, will cause a misfire
if thats the case, you might be lucky and get away with new gaskets. be careful and don't overtighten the head bolts

Thanks! Im going to take the heads off when I view it next week.
I guess that's good about old pushrod V8,s, fairly easy to get the heads off!
Couple of questions.
Is it feasible to check the heads for warping "in the field" using a rule and feeler gauges?
Or should the I assume they are warped and get them skimmed anyway?
Thanks

depends who you ask. personally I think a steel rule and feeler gauges is good enough, checking for erosion round the seal area
others will say they need to be skimmed regardless. I don't think its a good idea

markomate2 said:

Thanks! Im going to take the heads off when I view it next week.
I guess that's good about old pushrod V8,s, fairly easy to get the heads off!
Couple of questions.
Is it feasible to check the heads for warping "in the field" using a rule and feeler gauges?
Or should the I assume they are warped and get them skimmed anyway?
Thanks

Click to expand...

The 1992 RR engine was 3.9 fuel injection when it left the factory.
Remembering that the vehicle has two banks of cylinders, so its not unheard of but unusual for both head gaskets to blown simultaneously, therefore the engine should run, even if in the past the engine has been left to seriously overheat and as a result a cylinder liner is now loose.

So get the engine running then asses what is wrong with it, u may be lucky who knows, replacing a head a gasket isn't a big issue on OHV engines, if thats what’s needed, also while the tools are out do the other side as well.
Of course if there’s a liner issue also... then its make up your mind time.


Sent from my iPad on a train.

Thanks, Im going to take a full head gasket set with me.
If the heads are not warped Ill change the gaskets and see how it goes from there.
But Ill check over the engine before I start taking bits off!
I have to get a ferry to reach the island its on, so if I can get away with one visit , great.
The owner is aware that it may not be the solution, just have to see what's what when I eyeball it.

markomate2 said:

Thanks, Im going to take a full head gasket set with me.
If the heads are not warped Ill change the gaskets and see how it goes from there.
But Ill check over the engine before I start taking bits off!
I have to get a ferry to reach the island its on, so if I can get away with one visit , great.
The owner is aware that it may not be the solution, just have to see what's what when I eyeball it.

Click to expand...

Sounds it also going to an interesting adventure so let the Forum know how u get on

If enough water has been getting into the cylinders and it's done a few cold starts during investigations, the plugs could be well fouled up causing a no start scenario

Good point! Ill pull the plugs anyway to do the compression test.

Work on worst case scenario and offer accordingly.

You need to have a thorough look for corrosion. Whilst some of the outer visible panels are an alloy, ALL the under panels are normal steel & rust for fun.
Have a look through some of the aftermarket panel suppliers to give you an idea - after all, if there was no call for them they wouldn't be making them!
https://froggatts.co.uk/parts-category/range-rover-classic-parts/

Thanks, he's said its "not too rusty"!
But I follow Soup Classic Motoring channel on YouTube, so I expect it to be worse than expected!

Just popped on the forum to close this one off!
I looked at the car, it was a dog, no, a dog with fleas, as Gordon Gekko would say!
The body was rusty, holes everywhere.
Sunroof had been left open, it was soaked inside!
I started stripping the engine down just because I was there anyway.
When I got to removing the distributor, two things were apparent, first, the gear on the shaft was very badly worn, second, the gear was covered in rust!
So it would have needed an engine out repair anyway.
So I condemned it, said he could sell it for spares as the chassis looked pretty solid!