What have you done to your Freelander today

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Hi, glad you got it sorted. When mine went earlier this year I just got a replacement regulator inc. motor but I was never happy with the window clamps on it so I got a repair kit for the original regulator with a view to refitting it sometime, anyway after about six months the rear window shattered whilst parked on the drive so I got a replacement window & refitted it with the now repaired original regulator. The only problem I've had since, is the window doesn't drop enough to open the tailgate without a gentle pull on the glass, (the tailgate releases so you could just pull the door open) you can hear the motor work but I get the impression its just taking up slack in the cable but when you shut the tailgate it goes up to where it should no problem, it also operates fine with the switch on the centre console. So after all that cobblers, what make of cable/repair kit did you get ? as I'll have to redo mine before the better half:rolleyes: forgets to manually assist the window when opening the tailgate.
Thanks in advance.
I bought a new regulator without a motor, and swapped over the original motor. Many peeps just replace the cables on theirs but I'm not confident I'd get that right so have always opted for regulators on all my FL windows. The clamps on my replacement seemed okay but are very different to the originals. The one I used was a £30 ebay job. I spent a bit of time lining everything up so hopefully it'll be okay. It's all functioning as it should for now. Time will tell I suppose.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WINDOW-R...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
 
I bought a new regulator without a motor, and swapped over the original motor. Many peeps just replace the cables on theirs but I'm not confident I'd get that right so have always opted for regulators on all my FL windows. The clamps on my replacement seemed okay but are very different to the originals. The one I used was a £30 ebay job. I spent a bit of time lining everything up so hopefully it'll be okay. It's all functioning as it should for now. Time will tell I suppose.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WINDOW-REGULATOR-ELECTRIC-REAR-TAILGATE-BACK-FOR-LAND-ROVER-FREELANDER-97/190941921524?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Ok, I'll try & search posts (or ask with a post) to see which repair kit people have used with success. If the cable had a adjuster in line I'm sure it would cure it.
Cheers.
 
That's very generous Ali. I'll just need to find a suitable OS, which I'm sure is possible.

Actually I've got a copy of Win7 pro, which I'm sure should be ok for the software I have.

I'll not connect it to the Internet, so Microsoft shouldn't be upset, having Win7 on 2 different machines.
I collected a several old laptops a few years ago when they were being recycled by work. They're ancient and have no value but were working when last turned on.
I gave them to anyone who needed them but still have a couple left.
 
Sold it (my 2005 SE auto), well taken the money for it.
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He's picking it up on Monday, which is when he can get it taken away on a lorry, as I have completely failed to get the gearbox working correctly. So it's been sold as spares or repair, which wasn't the plan, but I need the space to sort out my FL2.
 
Sat in it last nite in the dark watching the weather storm around me while having a break from driving.
 
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Sold it (my 2005 SE auto), well taken the money for it.View attachment 222329 He's picking it up on Monday, which is when he can get it taken away on a lorry, as I have completely failed to get the gearbox working correctly. So it's been sold as spares or repair, which wasn't the plan, but I need the space to sort out my FL2.
That's a shame Nodge after all the work you put in over the years but I understand sometimes you just have to move on.
 
That's a shame Nodge after all the work you put in over the years but I understand sometimes you just have to move on.

It's a shame Ali, but it's time to move it on. It's cost me more than it should have, if worked out as £ per mile, simply because it doesn't do many miles per year, and it's been quite "needy" while I've had it.

I've got to concentrate on getting the FL2 up and running, and the cash from the FL1 sale will enable me to move on with that. :)
 
I think the new Defender is a lovely looking vehicle, which probably has a similar complement of bells n whistles to the DS. ;)
I'm sure it does... but sadly I don't have £85k+ - our DS was a fraction of that and is generally lovely. Other than intermittent Infotainment glitches...

I have an IID, but it's abilities on the FL2/DS/Evoque are limited. :(

I've just ordered a Mongoose cable which comes with SDD (probably a clone), for in depth diagnostic stuff, although I'll need a decent laptop running XP Pro Service Pack 3, in order for it to work.
I've plenty of current options for the FL2 which are the IID, WOW/Delphi, and Icarsoft I930.

If you are visiting at some point, you're welcome to try what I have.;)

Awesome! Will do! I had brought my pscan with me, but only in Cornwall for three days and could easily get away! LOL ;) Next time!!! Will definitely compare widgets then. :D

Just watched a youtube last night on the new Defender - check engine light on at 2 days, 167 miles, cylinder 2 and 3 mixture. Back to dealers for 2 CM updates after which the cameras failed, told it was another failed cm but back to the garage for further diag. Thats this month!!

I know. I've been watching this drama unfold... not good at all. JLR even sent an engineer out from the UK to their local dealership, and it is still not fixed... Jeepers. So sad. A nice base-specc'd car with a rear diff lock - pretty close to what I'd be wanting to buy (although I like the look of the commercial, but would need the rear seats!)

They have had the car for a month, and it has been with the garage for all but four of those days... hope they get it back and fall in love with it again!


It's a shame Ali, but it's time to move it on. It's cost me more than it should have, if worked out as £ per mile, simply because it doesn't do many miles per year, and it's been quite "needy" while I've had it.

I've got to concentrate on getting the FL2 up and running, and the cash from the FL1 sale will enable me to move on with that. :)

So sad, but hopefully it'll go to a good home and you got a decent price for it!
 
Hope the SE got off to new home o.k. Sometimes it is the right thing to cut your losses and also to focus on just one thing !!
Today I finally had time to look at my other V6, it kept blowing the water hose off the T joint. Decided to remove the joint and have a proper look as it looked fine in the depths of the bay !
When I got it out I noticed a few laps of black tape. When removed, the T was cracked at the end where the retaining lip was. Looks like it held till it got hot then let the hose go. Have flushed through and water flow through the stat and bypass seems ok. Have ordered a new steel one the right size so that I can clamp it up tight. Hopefully that is all that is wrong.
Sold the Series 2A, it was cute and I fell for it, but the most impractical vehicle in so many ways for me anyway. Too much cash sitting on the driveway for the use it was getting.
 
Hope the SE got off to new home o.k. Sometimes it is the right thing to cut your losses and also to focus on just one thing !!
I hope the new owner gets it going ok. I included various parts that I'd collected to do some repairs on the box, which was before the FL2 came along.
Today I finally had time to look at my other V6, it kept blowing the water hose off the T joint. Decided to remove the joint and have a proper look as it looked fine in the depths of the bay
I had the same issue with my V6. I made up a few copper replacement T pieces for mine, as the plastic stuff was just unreliable.
Sold the Series 2A, it was cute and I fell for it, but the most impractical vehicle in so many ways for me anyway.
That didn't last long Andy, although you kept it longer than I would have. :eek:
 
Sorry to hear the 2a is gone

Yes so am I in a way. I bought it a bit on impulse which is very unlike me. I blame covid!!! However it is a lot of money to leave lying around and in Devon the condition would always go down. It was perhaps too good to use!!

It is always a problem when I haven't done the resto work myself, there were things I didn't like and it would have involved messing it up to redo it!
Also, you get the bond by working on it which has been discussed here before.

It has gone to a much younger enthusiast who can easily live without the comforts of a more modern vehicle!!
 
Sold it (my 2005 SE auto), well taken the money for it.View attachment 222329 He's picking it up on Monday, which is when he can get it taken away on a lorry, as I have completely failed to get the gearbox working correctly. So it's been sold as spares or repair, which wasn't the plan, but I need the space to sort out my FL2.
How much does a freelander with a dodgy auto box sell for just out of interest..mine's a 2001 model with 145k on the clock. With a suspect cracked high/reverse piston fault.
 
How much does a freelander with a dodgy auto box sell for just out of interest..mine's a 2001 model with 145k on the clock. With a suspect cracked high/reverse piston fault.

I got £650 for 2005 SE with a faulty auto box, and no MOT. It should pass the next MOT though, and only didn't get it done because the tester needs to road test it, as it's still running 4X4. I didn’t want to go through the hassle of explaining to the MOT tester about not using D and only selecting up to 3rd in Command Shift.
 
Amongst many little things I've been doing, I think this one was worth a photo and a post...

My hippo is a special vehicles build, my father in law specced it up as a Van, ran it for four years through his company and we bought it off him at 4 years old an 88,000 miles, I've since put a 3 door leather interior in it, and a suspension lift and an ally sump guard, and a tubular exhaust /rear skid guard and and and... But I keep the special vehicles badges on it, and am very proud of them. However, time hasn't been kind to them, the clear plastic had gotten rather cloudy:

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So I cracked out some abrasive polish (poorboys world Super Swirl Remover 3) and applied a bit of elbow grease:

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WoER2bIt79evIrJWk6uuAot1ObcC9cTpjWuJ7wymUj3bdwHZmn1DmUnmPVUIx0ZcDBhKRu4UidXEtumV5X5msgxgA-gM6wbc3kbU8o4eDtiajMwICm5kD4Iln4rrRyxomVOxQ16WrMakrlhW-1th1l7viJYBOLB2YLzeykxUfz2zXB9D1CvGR2hqb8pgm_w2TdqB33tuPfvsZpJyP68wvignOOPUaO2qAaET-LHEbpTNlD6FALlc15JQyMkqdsHshUjnbKWc-oivaPOV5tTHUJ2GH_nDxYo-cJGCXAG8gxQDZUOb_Kxe31OsYYUZDuBwlXG7gSFssgIIxwlChvAI2kxd5TxNr_FipIoi1tyQ0ncJtBRMbCKpCT7jx6b3sRWj7oPc9TfM8xDasZKMURJbgSeZm_gF1qOyvPztJ_J-v7x-T9tuZtz2ZsqhUrLeR6SM_woERSvmwBemHlTPPNCSm0uc49hZwJZmhxO5qecN3XEiIyHWNvg03S1XHRavHTrGHsanyD9evzxFdKULrPKunX_ZRfei70h3EvvqZH-V6beo7npZttxdWEBOj3A9Wdx6ZFReMu37CsNtpr0xHsW2yyua5WymsnL92rSmT973bmJrBjcFbZ0z4ZY6HolL6y3dioAbTIM-JoJLxJQdO1OC-cKBn3IX7_Nv9zZBCEtogZ8ZVXrhgX9_Bg=w1654-h930-no
 
Fitted Yuasa battery, 76Ah, CCA 680, form Battery Megastore - £64.50
Usual problem with clamp, see photo complete with corroded clamp screw. I removed battery by undoing the three battery box screws and lifted out with battery. I didn't know there was a third screw underneath the battery but some kind person had not replaced that one:)
 

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Well it has been a busy day again, new discs on the front (Waiting on pads, but that is a different story), new drums and show on the rear.

Fitted a new gear linkage bush at the gearbox end and also at the gear-lever end, hateful job.

I have also removed the propshaft so I can fit a new fuel tank cradle, I am also going to replace the prop bearings and coupling unit as it has done 93,000 miles.

Oh I do like spending my day crawling around on my back on the drive.
 
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