New member/P38 owner in Swindon

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Cheers albeit i am no sparky so would not try this myself TBH. Are you saying then if i cut the BLUE wire on my current module then it will no longer be affected by outside forces in the night thus flattening my vehicle battery???

I currently have my car connected to my C-tek charger as its a brand new battery fitted last week so keeping it alive 100%. I only have 1 remote key fob which the dash display keeps saying the batteries in it are low but i am waiting for a new fob repair kit to arrive as the rear cover is badly butchered and i don't want to take it off until i have new batteries and the new cover to fit on it until i can get a new key fob done for me.
I cannot understand as to why LR did not recall the cars if this interference issue was such a big issue. ??. I have also read there are two differing types?? a blue dot and a green dot, the latter being the upgraded item which protects the car from outside forces in the night. LOL.
If i change this module for a later one do i have to have it coded in to the car for it to work or is it a simple unplug and remove and replace and plug back in job???
I am no sparky and do not wish to be either. I hate car electrics of any nature.

Regards, Brendan


No the blue wire is the Arial wire the switch powers off the red and black wires and switches the orange wire which is feed to the becm that the lock unlock signal is sent down.
 
Welcome to the forum mate - enjoy :D:)
Thanks buddy. This forum is my only current enjoyment so far. The car is just starting to wind me up now. If any of you mods/admin guys know how to cross load my long post in to the relevant section i would appreciate that as it saves me writing it all out again and depressing myself further.
 
FIP timing out will make it smoke and sound like a bag of nails. Remap in the mix along with cheapy MAF MAP hard to deduce without seeing it.
Your only option If you are on your own without the know how is probably Nanocom 06 at this point. would say fuelling out of range or something to that effect.
Difficult to trust other diagnostics tools with EDC as it’s a one off job not obd2 compliant

If it’s booked in for November wait see what they find, I agree you need someone familiar to look at it.
 
FIP timing out will make it smoke and sound like a bag of nails. Remap in the mix along with cheapy MAF MAP hard to deduce without seeing it.
Your only option If you are on your own without the know how is probably Nanocom 06 at this point. would say fuelling out of range or something to that effect.
Difficult to trust other diagnostics tools with EDC as it’s a one off job not obd2 compliant

If it’s booked in for November wait see what they find, I agree you need someone familiar to look at it.
Cheers, I am now also thinking the timing might be off slightly. The 2 x new sensors although not OEM did cost each £70 which i dont consider cheap but it is possible they could not be upto the job. They look 100% identical to the ones i took off which were OEM items and most likely the original ones too.
The car is in excellent order and is ultra rare as a Westminster 2.5 TD plus she is an 02 last of the run model and fully loaded and with all the new bits fitted she is going to be a minter plus all the previous history and the last owner spending £8000 on her in 2017 she is or so i thought was bullet proof and the main reason i bought her.

It has just really peeved me off now and interest in the car is dwindling rapidly. I am now into the car for nearly £8500 including all the brand new bits i have bought for her in advance to make her perfect. I am at the stage now if someone made me a decent offer i would let them have it and all the new bits too and write it off as a bad experience never to be repeated.
 
Cheers, I am now also thinking the timing might be off slightly. The 2 x new sensors although not OEM did cost each £70 which i dont consider cheap but it is possible they could not be upto the job. They look 100% identical to the ones i took off which were OEM items and most likely the original ones too.
The car is in excellent order and is ultra rare as a Westminster 2.5 TD plus she is an 02 last of the run model and fully loaded and with all the new bits fitted she is going to be a minter plus all the previous history and the last owner spending £8000 on her in 2017 she is or so i thought was bullet proof and the main reason i bought her.

It has just really peeved me off now and interest in the car is dwindling rapidly. I am now into the car for nearly £8500 including all the brand new bits i have bought for her in advance to make her perfect. I am at the stage now if someone made me a decent offer i would let them have it and all the new bits too and write it off as a bad experience never to be repeated.
Well you certainly know how to spend money,you don't work for a main dealer do you ? They keep changing bits until the problem is solved. You say it starts for cold and more importantly Hot so I would say there's not much wrong with the timing, but that's just a guess. Can you get someone to increase the revs while you put your hand by the exhaust tailpipe? to check you have exhaust gases actually coming out, if not I'm guessing the Cat has collapsed internally (your metallic rattle) worth a punt and it's Free. Welcome to the madhouse by the way.
 
You need to stop throwing money at it. If the appointment is the 18th then wait until someone has looked at it in person and hope they know this car. Your burning through money like there's no tomorrow without any idea of what the problem is. This one needs a person on hand to get stuck in.. Please stop buying parts on a whim... It'll only make you feel worse.. :eek:;)
 
You need to stop throwing money at it. If the appointment is the 18th then wait until someone has looked at it in person and hope they know this car. Your burning through money like there's no tomorrow without any idea of what the problem is. This one needs a person on hand to get stuck in.. Please stop buying parts on a whim... It'll only make you feel worse.. :eek:;)
Or keep spending then accept a cheeky bid from me.;):D:D
 
Well you certainly know how to spend money,you don't work for a main dealer do you ? They keep changing bits until the problem is solved. You say it starts for cold and more importantly Hot so I would say there's not much wrong with the timing, but that's just a guess. Can you get someone to increase the revs while you put your hand by the exhaust tailpipe? to check you have exhaust gases actually coming out, if not I'm guessing the Cat has collapsed internally (your metallic rattle) worth a punt and it's Free. Welcome to the madhouse by the way.
That is a possibility i suppose as i had a rattly cat on a car years ago albeit rattled all the time even on idle. It only rattles when driven hard and when i rev it up there is no fragments coming out the rear tail pipes, only smoke and crud splatters from i am guessing the fuel treatment i put in the tank. I do have a new exhaust system to fit albeit only from the cat back but it might be worth buying the front bit too.
 
That is a possibility i suppose as i had a rattly cat on a car years ago albeit rattled all the time even on idle. It only rattles when driven hard and when i rev it up there is no fragments coming out the rear tail pipes, only smoke and crud splatters from i am guessing the fuel treatment i put in the tank. I do have a new exhaust system to fit albeit only from the cat back but it might be worth buying the front bit too.
STOP. Remove the middle box take it for a drive see if it makes a difference and I dont mean to the noise level.
 
STOP. Remove the middle box take it for a drive see if it makes a difference and I dont mean to the noise level.
Cheers for the " top tip " my friend. I already have a new exhaust system waiting to be fitted including the front Cat pipe and also a centre silencer delete pipe too. I just bought the whole lot as the current system on the car looks like its the original one from new and the 2 rear boxes are rusty as hell so it made sense to change the whole lot and tick it off the list of things to do.

Just need access to a lift now and a mate to assist me in fitting it .
 
Hi buddy, i rang them last week and spoke with Alex, they are fully booked for the next 6 weeks and are down to just 1 mechanic at the moment albeit Alex very kindly pointed me toward Greg & Dudley @ G&D automotive in Minety. I visited them yesterday morning and had a really nice chat with Greg who has booked me in for the 18th of November for a full diagnosis and hopeful repair. That is the best they can do for now for me.
In the mean time today i have been tinkering again and ran her on the driveway and took her for short runs local. Still down on power and smoking BUT i think alot of the smoke is the fuel treatment i had added to the 1/4 of a tank of diesel which is pushing it through the system and out the back zorst pipes. LOL.
Its like emergency smoke withdrawal scene from my Army days. LOL.
A mate popped round today with his " snap on " scanner and plugged in to my OBD port. Surprised to seee there were no faults codes showing or any stored codes either which was a good sign. We also took off the intercooler pipe to Turbo with engine running and she was sucking well indeed so all ok there too.

I have driven her today and actually managed to get her up to 70 mph where as last few days she has struggled to get above 45 mph with smoke. I can also hear a metallic sort of rattle sound/clicking under hard acceleration which makes me think its the Turbo actuator compensating for lack of power/boost.???

She revs up lovely and settles down perfect on idle with no hunting on the rev counter either. She starts perfect from stone cold and also from hot after about 3-5 cranks on the key.
We unplugged the mass air flow sensor with engine running and noticed a drop and plugged it back in and noticed it pick up. No check engine light came on but it did store it in the scan codes which we cleared. I have a new mass airflow sensor coming Monday to try as a process of illimination.

All guages are perfect and all fluids are perfect and no signs of any leaks or losses anywhere. A small bit of oil on the bottom of the Turbo underside where the hard plastic intercooler pipe connects on the back of the Turbo but nothing major to worry about ( YET ).
I think i will just have the Turbo fully refurbished anyway as the car has just clocked up 106k from new with a great service history record file so it has been looked after in the past by previous owners at main dealers and in 2017 by Turner Performance in Hemel Hemstead over alternating 4 month periods to the tune of £8000 spent by the last owner on all sorts including a stage 1 remap from standard 138 bhp to 180 bhp with NO EGR delete.

Shortly after all these works were done the previous owner traded the car back to the dealer who sold it to me albeit has has had it dry stored in his hangar for the last 2 years stood still. He woke it up in July of this year and had it M.O.T'd and nothing else. He most likely ran it up on old diesel too in the tank and he did not service it either. I have however carried out a full lubrication service less for coolant and brake fluid flush but it had an all new ABS pump and sensors fitted in 2017 so the fluid looks fine and the brakes all work perfectly. I have also bought a full set of drilled/grooved discs and new pads to fit also.

I will get there in the end and will be able to enjoy her fully ( I hope ) so in the mean time i am fitting my light guard set, my new exhaust system, my front steering arm rod and new gearbox oil cooler pipes which should keep me busy until she goes in to G&D for a expert check over.
Regards,

@wammers is the diesel God. If anyone can sort it over the internet it is him.
 
Cheers for the " top tip " my friend. I already have a new exhaust system waiting to be fitted including the front Cat pipe and also a centre silencer delete pipe too. I just bought the whole lot as the current system on the car looks like its the original one from new and the 2 rear boxes are rusty as hell so it made sense to change the whole lot and tick it off the list of things to do.

Just need access to a lift now and a mate to assist me in fitting it .
You could always lift the suspension to high and use axle stands easy to remove the middle box then
 
You could always lift the suspension to high and use axle stands easy to remove the middle box then
Yes buddy i do have a pair of those low profile ramps i could use but seeing as i have ordered a full new zorst system it makes sense to change the lot at the same time me thinks and then i don't need to go there again.
I have been praying to " God " for the last few since since it went dudd on me albeit as of yet he has not answered me. LOL
 
Yes buddy i do have a pair of those low profile ramps i could use but seeing as i have ordered a full new zorst system it makes sense to change the lot at the same time me thinks and then i don't need to go there again.
I have been praying to " God " for the last few since since it went dudd on me albeit as of yet he has not answered me. LOL
I was just making suggestions to try and pinpoint your problem, normally I would say change the air and fuel filters firstly but you say they have been changed, you have fuel to the injectors, the MAP sensor pipe is clear,is the manifold nipple blocked? Unless you have access to the timing kit don't go there. You have done the basics is it worth changing the fuel filter again and pour the contents into a clear container to check if you have any crud in the bottom. With it standing unused you can get a bacteria growth in the diesel tank, chin up.we normally deal in Midget Gems and if we can come to an agreement I'll even include the black ones.:D:D
 
I was just making suggestions to try and pinpoint your problem, normally I would say change the air and fuel filters firstly but you say they have been changed, you have fuel to the injectors, the MAP sensor pipe is clear,is the manifold nipple blocked? Unless you have access to the timing kit don't go there. You have done the basics is it worth changing the fuel filter again and pour the contents into a clear container to check if you have any crud in the bottom. With it standing unused you can get a bacteria growth in the diesel tank, chin up.we normally deal in Midget Gems and if we can come to an agreement I'll even include the black ones.:D:D
Cheers buddy, i was thinking of changing the fuel filter again just to rule that out. Its only been on 3 weeks now and i always fully prime it with fresh fuel before re-fitting them. She fired up immediately and still does to this day BUT for the price of one its a no brainer TBH so i will order another and change it again.
I have also been putting quite a bit of fresh diesel in the tank over these last few weeks and a total of £100 has been added of V power shell diesel along with a a bottle of fuel cleaner and a bottle of turbo cleaner which were both recommended to me by a chap on here who uses them all the time in his P38 TD. They could also still account for a fair bit of the smoke still being emitted on start up and when i rev her up.

I changed the batteries in the remote key fob this morning after my fob kit arrived. What an absolute PITA job that was too as according to the UHB you only get 1 min to do it and yes, guess what, i got disabled out of the car and she would not start. I was tearing my hair out ( i still have hair BTW ) and i just played with the new back cover a bit and then the remote started to work again and the car started up. Remote now locks and unlocks and the little red light emits too on the remote fob again and the message on the dash has gone now which said remote fob battery low so at least i have managed to get one job done.

Regarding the rough running issue which still is there, she starts fine from cold and starts ok after about 5 cranks from hot which i can live with for now. I may get the hot start kit fitted when she goes in the specialists as its only about £50 for the kit.

Again i have no warning lights and never have had any either. If i rev her up she sort of struggles like a duff spark plug feeling and the same if you drive her and with smoke emitting. All the fluid levels are fine and remain fine as i check them daily. No loss anywhere and no leaks underneath either apart from the 2 x gearbox flexi oil cooler pipes which are weeping on the crimp joints. I have 2 x new pipes to get fitted in readiness along with a new full exhaust system when it all arrives. I have decided to fit the middle silencer delete pipe too for that straight through flow of the gases. If i find its too loud then i can just fit the new middle box i have.
Its cold and wet outside today and my arthritus is playing me up in my hands so i am done now for today and back in the warmth of the bungalow.

Will P38 ownership always be like this i am starting to ask myself with mine being plagued with issues??? I am particularly interested in all views from my fellow 2.5 TD owners and they are all and have faired with theirs over the times??? I decided on the 2.5 TD as i wanted longevity and good MPG over the V8's. I already have 2 other classic V8 cars in my little collection along with my classic Vespa mod scooter so did not see the need for another gas guzzler on my driveway. At least my P38 is under cover as i had a new carport fitted 2 months ago so at least she is protected from 90% of the bad weather we get on this island. LOL. If i could get her in my mancave she would be but not enough room in there for 4 toys sadly.

Praying she will come good for me so i can enjoy her.
 

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That does look like it’s had money spent on it.

One thing that occurs to me, if it’s been standing years have you tried draining the fuel filter water drain thingy mebob?
Where exactly is it please buddy??? i have heard this mentioned before albeit not sure exactly where it is?? I have today ordered another fuel filter too and will change it again just to be certain the new one i fitted 3 weeks ago has not been clogged which is possible i suppose. Rule it out so to speak as they say.

Cheers, Brendan
 
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