P38A Dreaded EAS fault (Max 35MPH) is this going to empty my wallet ?

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There's a "clear faults" button in EAS Unlock software. Clear them all and then run the car & see what comes back. Also before reading faults, make sure the RX-TX data give a steady flow. I can't remember the typical values, but think they are in the videos on the RSW website ?

Maybe you need a complete clean & o-ring seal replacement on the valve block, and then fit your new dryer. There shouldn't be any oil inside or outside the EAS box.
 
awkwardbob said:
Holy moly... got the new serial adaptor and the EASunlock is speaking to the EAS but seemed to call up a litany of contradictory faults.

how do I clear them ?



Also... the pump seems to be covered in a light oil that I don’t rememberbeing there before.

Any thoughts ?
Click to expand...

On the EAS Software, on the 1st tab FAULTS (in yellow), you've obviously read the faults so got to the white one lower down that says Faults. Click on it and the list should disappear. If not, highlight the list of faults then press delete. Then, read the fault list again. If you keep getting this list, either you have a poor connection at the OBD plug or USB, or you need to try a different comm port.
 
Ok... I need to stop panicking !

move reset the faults and now the only recurrent one is that same FR.

Pump is running, will
Give it a while and see how it goes.
 
If you're not confident Bob, I'd be happy to receive your valve block and motor and replace all "O" rings and whatnot for the cost of the postage. Whatever it costs to send it up should be the same to return it.

I know you want to do it yourself and I applaude that, but if the valve block is full of the same gunge as the pump was, it will need a thorough degreasing. But it's a bit of a job if you've never done it before and can cause you grief. Took me a few goes to get it just so....

Anyway, like I say, I will be more than happy to do the service FOC to get you kick started.
 
awkwardbob said:
Ok... I need to stop panicking !

move reset the faults and now the only recurrent one is that same FR.

Pump is running, will
Give it a while and see how it goes.
Click to expand...

I'd start by checking the plug at the actual FR sensor. If it's clean, the next port of call is the kick panel at the drivers foot well at the bottom of the drivers side "A" pillar. A white multi plug inside may be an issue if it's got wet or damp and has green grot on the pins. That would also cause a FR fault.
 
Ok, thanks... that seems likely. There has been significant moisture in the drivers footwell, so I’ll check that in the daylight.

I think I’ll read through the whole of the guide tonight and then have a look in the morning.

I can run the pump but it doesn’t appear to be doing anything useful, when I ask it to go to any of the heights using the software, the pump stops and nothing happens !

mill try and let the pressure build up first and see what happens. -oh, wait... air is hissing out at the rear -on both sides it seems... :(

annoyingly the o-ring and gasket kit arrived today but the Schroeder valves I paid express delivery for appear not to have even been collected yet !
 
awkwardbob said:
Ok, thanks... that seems likely. There has been significant moisture in the drivers footwell, so I’ll check that in the daylight.

I think I’ll read through the whole of the guide tonight and then have a look in the morning.

I can run the pump but it doesn’t appear to be doing anything useful, when I ask it to go to any of the heights using the software, the pump stops and nothing happens !

mill try and let the pressure build up first and see what happens. -oh, wait... air is hissing out at the rear -on both sides it seems... :(

annoyingly the o-ring and gasket kit arrived today but the Schroeder valves I paid express delivery for appear not to have even been collected yet !
Click to expand...

When you say at the rear, do you mean at the back of the car?
 
Yeah,
It’s too low to the ground and too dark for me to see where exactly it’s coming from.

I imagine it could be either a hose or airbag -very glum !
 
awkwardbob said:
Yeah,
It’s too low to the ground and too dark for me to see where exactly it’s coming from.

I imagine it could be either a hose or airbag -very glum !
Click to expand...

That's a bugger, I listened and heard nothing! Anyway, an easy fix. Firs you have to establish whether your line is melted (almost always an exhaust leak close by) or if the pipe is leaking at the airbag (possibly a bad "O" ring or loose pipe into the bag) or is the bag itself worn or punctured. You need to get air into them and raise the car so you can go spray the bag and connections with your bottle of soapy water.

A melted pipe is a doddle. I have enough to send you a coil to replace a bad pipe or even a short length and find a repair section of 6mm push fit https://www.mtapneumatics.com/qs-6-...6kX4p8Bcal7xhme7ZbcGwEGDJJ5UfG1xoCMVYQAvD_BwE

NOTHING is stopping you from fixing ANY part of this :cool:

You just need to find the problem and there is always a solution!
 
Doo said:
That's a bugger, I listened and heard nothing! Anyway, an easy fix. Firs you have to establish whether your line is melted (almost always an exhaust leak close by) or if the pipe is leaking at the airbag (possibly a bad "O" ring or loose pipe into the bag) or is the bag itself worn or punctured. You need to get air into them and raise the car so you can go spray the bag and connections with your bottle of soapy water.

A melted pipe is a doddle. I have enough to send you a coil to replace a bad pipe or even a short length and find a repair section of 6mm push fit https://www.mtapneumatics.com/qs-6-...6kX4p8Bcal7xhme7ZbcGwEGDJJ5UfG1xoCMVYQAvD_BwE

NOTHING is stopping you from fixing ANY part of this :cool:

You just need to find the problem and there is always a solution!
Click to expand...

Thanks Doo, it’s a bugger, we were supposed to be going away tomorrow for. A couple of relaxing days and this has put the kybosh on it.

I guess if I can get it up on some axle stands I might be able to see where the problem lies.

also it looks like RS sell those push-fit connectors in bags of 10 rather than 100s so that’s always an option too.
Is the pipe just 6mm plastic pneumatic tubing ?

hopefully it’s something semi-straightforward...
 
awkwardbob said:
Thanks Doo, it’s a bugger, we were supposed to be going away tomorrow for. A couple of relaxing days and this has put the kybosh on it.

I guess if I can get it up on some axle stands I might be able to see where the problem lies.

also it looks like RS sell those push-fit connectors in bags of 10 rather than 100s so that’s always an option too.
Is the pipe just 6mm plastic pneumatic tubing ?

hopefully it’s something semi-straightforward...
Click to expand...

Yes, the pipe is 6mm pneumatic tubing. The pipe to/from the valve block to the drier is 8mm and there is a 4mm pipe at the back end of the block who's function I forget... But each air spring to EAS valve block is 6mm as is the pipe to the air tank. I forgot about RS....
 
Doo said:
Yes, the pipe is 6mm pneumatic tubing. The pipe to/from the valve block to the drier is 8mm and there is a 4mm pipe at the back end of the block who's function I forget... But each air spring to EAS valve block is 6mm as is the pipe to the air tank. I forgot about RS....
Click to expand...

I wonder if they have it in stock, I suppose I’ll try and check tomorrow and see if I can see where the issue lies. -the hose seems cheap at £26 for 50m 10bar PE and £30 for 10 of the couplers.

I’d take that as a lucky escape !
 
Actually... it looks like the O/S/R air strut, its either burst or the hose has come out. As soon as you turn on the engine, air whooshes out, you can feel it.

I’m guessing that you need a proper ramp to replace an air-strut.
 
awkwardbob said:
Actually... it looks like the O/S/R air strut, its either burst or the hose has come out. As soon as you turn on the engine, air whooshes out, you can feel it.

I’m guessing that you need a proper ramp to replace an air-strut.
Click to expand...

Not at all. Jack the chassis leg and stick an axle stand in there. As long as the relevant wheel is off the ground, the fun part is getting the "R" pin out :confused:
 
Doo said:
I'd start by checking the plug at the actual FR sensor. If it's clean, the next port of call is the kick panel at the drivers foot well at the bottom of the drivers side "A" pillar. A white multi plug inside may be an issue if it's got wet or damp and has green grot on the pins. That would also cause a FR fault.
Click to expand...
No it wouldn't.
 
pwood999 said:
There's a "clear faults" button in EAS Unlock software. Clear them all and then run the car & see what comes back. Also before reading faults, make sure the RX-TX data give a steady flow. I can't remember the typical values, but think they are in the videos on the RSW website ?

Maybe you need a complete clean & o-ring seal replacement on the valve block, and then fit your new dryer. There shouldn't be any oil inside or outside the EAS box.
Click to expand...
So many faults is usually bad comms.
 
awkwardbob said:
Hey,
Yes that seemed to be the problem, the only recurrent one now is FR incorrect... oh, and the veritable tornado of air escaping from
the O/S/R strut !
Click to expand...
Bags are not hard to change,its recommend to change both if one goes.order the R clips as well if the old ones are corroded you can use a pry bar to shear them once the pipe has been removed. There is a replacement guide in the Technical Archive.
 
wammers said:
No it wouldn't.
Click to expand...

When my drivers window stopped working it was caused by one green grotty pin on the multi plug going into the BECM.

I also had an issue with a grotty OBD port and something else which currently escapes me... My point was, check for poor connection.
 
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