Other what have u done on ur disco today

Check carefully around the window rubbers and the top gutter above the front screen, also check the drain
Holes in the doors are clear plus the holes at the bottom of the A post,
Wellcome to my world

Windscreen was replaced in the recent past, but I have tried Captain Tolleys Creeping Crack cure as well. I will try sealing the gutters and door drains are a good shout.
There are several grommets in the A pillar, should there be drains down there also ?

Shedload said:

Windscreen was replaced in the recent past, but I have tried Captain Tolleys Creeping Crack cure as well. I will try sealing the gutters and door drains are a good shout.
There are several grommets in the A pillar, should there be drains down there also ?

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On the A pillar there is a grommet just under the rear of the front wings , one of mine had gone missing
So allowed water into the footwell, so definitely worth checking, the drain on the A pillar if blocked again let’s water into the footwell, also the inner wing at the rear can leak if the seam sealer has perished,
You are so right! They leak like a sieve,
My main culprits where the window rubber seals, all had perished and were leaking so created corrosion to the floors with the alpine lights being the worst,

New genuine xyz switch. Not as bad ad I thought even without taking the exhaust off.

Changed the D3 compressor, compressor bracket and mount, all hardware, bolts, chimney nuts, washers etc gave the chassis rails a clean over as well. Chimney nuts and bolts greased up for winter

When I cut the 8mm and 10mm airlines I used 90 degree elbows instead of inline push fit connectors for a nicer finish

The drier cap had a crack between the airline connections that was causing an issue, I'll rebuild that now as a spare

Put it up for sale

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/discovery-3-xs-tdv6.363794/

still staying in brand I think unless something really special catches my eye

Went to replace the towbar socket on the D1 & opened up the rear compartment to unplug
the connector to the socket to find someone has hard wired the socket to the lights & the
original plug with the cap still on it & the bung still in the floor

popped the bung out new wiring in job jobbed

Europa486 said:

On the A pillar there is a grommet just under the rear of the front wings , one of mine had gone missing
So allowed water into the footwell, so definitely worth checking, the drain on the A pillar if blocked again let’s water into the footwell, also the inner wing at the rear can leak if the seam sealer has perished,
You are so right! They leak like a sieve,
My main culprits where the window rubber seals, all had perished and were leaking so created corrosion to the floors with the alpine lights being the worst,

Click to expand...

I think that A-Pillar drain may be a suspect. I'll add it to my list of possibles .

Fitted a high level brake and reversing LED light, now that’s done can refit the interior after the repaint,
Still loads to do but should be finished by Christmas,

andyschleckscheshirecat said:

The drier cap had a crack between the airline connections that was causing an issue, I'll rebuild that now as a spare

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I got a nice alloy cap for my drier when I rebuilt it, from X8R. to make sure I didn't suffer with that problem in future.

J

So after re-sealing both sunroofs I decided to do the roof bar gskts. whilst the headlining was out. Got a set of gskts(pattern as LR in their wisdom have discontinued the genuine ones) so after removing the r/bars & cleaning round the fitting points I discovered I'd been sent two n/s rear gskts.(all four are different) so I couldn't refit the o/s bar . Having had to drill the rivets out of the air con ducting so I could undo the rear r/bar fixing. When I wanted to refit the ducting & not having a rivet gun I knocked the metal centre out of what was left of the rivet & used a no6 (3.5mm) x 10 self tapper to secure the ducting.

Took the day off, as a working from home day as I do
So took the disco for its MOT, passed of course, and surprise without any mention of the rust around edge of the rear discs, not that i take any notice of advisory’s.

Nothing big - removed MAF, MAP and IAT (think that's what it's called - temp sensor in airbox) and cleaned them all thoroughly with MAF cleaner. Checked front pads - 4mm thick so will change shortly (spec says min thickness = 2mm). Bought TRW pads (front and rear set) for $50 (delivered) from Repco (clearance stock) - happy with that deal; looks like I'll have to install the pads soon.

Quite a busy week, fitted new polyurethane bushes to the panhard rod with new bolts/ Nuts,
Fitted front mud flaps with substantial aluminium angle suitably coated with tiger seal were bolted to floor
Using stainless steel nuts and bolts,
Finished off the rear lights in the bumper with proper Land Rover bulb holders that don’t short out when you put the bulb in like the ****part does,

Finished refitting the headlining which I stripped and painted last week, and removed and resealed the sunroofs to the body while it was down.
This morning the rusty boot floor was chopped out in preparation for the new one. The arches are still sound but the floor panels either side are a bit crispy, so I'll make up a couple ofcardboard templates and replace with good metal before the floor goes back in.

Over the years have been suitably ****ed off with drilling out the rivets and then putting back new ones
On the gearbox rubber cover on my disc mk1, so removed the cover and fitted captive nuts so it can be taken apart
And back together easily,

Finally started to fix my sunroof

I was thinking about rivnuts next time I take the plate off...

tilly2 said:

I was thinking about rivnuts next time I take the plate off...

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Rivnuts are ok but the captive nuts are held below the hole with a couple of blind rivets, so won’t go anywhere,
I have had Rivnuts fail on me in the past, this way they will outlast me,

Fitted new wiper blades.