FL2 Gearbox Oil Change

I managed to do nothing on the R40 NUK today, but i did do a gearbox oil change on the FL2 adding some lovely new golden syrup oil.

First i jacked up the front and sat it on some wooden plates so it was high enough for me to remove the undertray.

My drive slopes a little so jacking the front up to the required amount make it level
Tools used spanner 24mm & socket 24mm Fig A
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New oil Fig B/C
B

New oil in my pump.
C


Jacked up to make it level back to front and side to side.
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Wheel off check that i could undo the level plug.
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Crack & undo the drain plug 24mm spanner.
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Once drain plug cracked i remove the plug with my hand, it gives you more control over the flow.
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The oil comes out very quick & soon slows down to a dribble.
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Old oil dark brown
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Clean and refit the drain plug.
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Remove the filler plug
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Make sure the car is level
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Hook up my filling pump container.
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Pump away until i have 1.900ltr in the gearbox this is the second part 900ml
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Gearbox full as its dribbling out of the level plug.
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Filler plug back in and wipe clean.
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Road wheel back on lower the car and take it for a run, check it when i got back all ok undertray back on job done.

This is the old oil and new golden syrup oil next to each other.
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Oil i used
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/75W90-5L...poid-Oil-5-Litres-GL-4-GL-5-MT-1/121617362859

It certainly needed doing even though Landrover say its sealed for life yer right, next to do is the Haldex filter.

Any noticeable difference in your gearchanges? Changing the gearbox oil on my old Avensis made 1st and 2nd much smoother to select and less notchy.

paul99 said:

Any noticeable difference in your gearchanges? Changing the gearbox oil on my old Avensis made 1st and 2nd much smoother to select and less notchy.

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Hi Paul.
Yes feels smoother but it was not bad anyways, so it maybe the placebo effect

One more job off the list Arctic2.

It always surprises me as to how oil degrades and goes black, even when it's not full of carbon particles like engine oil it. I bet the box is smoother to change gear now, and maybe less noisy too.

I've got this exact same procedure to do to my FL2, along with the PTU, Haldex and rear diff, although the latter is just to clear out the metallic particulates, until I can get to replace the noisy diff bearing.

Good work, and well worth sharing on here.

Nodge68 said:

One more job off the list Arctic2.

It always surprises me as to how oil degrades and goes black, even when it's not full of carbon particles like engine oil it. I bet the box is smoother to change gear now, and maybe less noisy too.

I've got this exact same procedure to do to my FL2, along with the PTU, Haldex and rear diff, although the latter is just to clear out the metallic particulates, until I can get to replace the noisy diff bearing.

Good work, and well worth sharing on here.

Click to expand...

HI John.
Are you going to add a drain plug to the PTU ? i have seen a few whom have added this mod which is supposed to make it easier for draining.

On Freel2 someone as suggested that i should have used75w/80below is the quote.

( Please note do not use the 75w/90 for the gearbox you must use the 75w/80 as you will not be able to select the gears )

I can get all my gears and its smooth ? so a bit confusing i think.

Arctic2 said:

HI John.
Are you going to add a drain plug to the PTU ? i have seen a few whom have added this mod which is supposed to make it easier for draining.

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I wasn't no. I was just going to suck the oil out with an electric pump. It's not something plan on doing very often.

I'm going to refill it with Liquid Molly oil, for maximum defence against the torque loads it takes.

Arctic2 said:

On Freel2 someone as suggested that i should have used75w/80below is the quote.

( Please note do not use the 75w/90 for the gearbox you must use the 75w/80 as you will not be able to select the gears )

I can get all my gears and its smooth ? so a bit confusing i think.

Click to expand...

There's always going to be different opinions on these things. I can't see a small shift in grade making much difference, as there's always going to be some overlap between the oil grades from different manufacturers anyway. Whatever oil you put in is going to be better than the dirty black stuff that came oil.

This may sound daft, but where did you place the spirit level?

Rank Amatuer said:

This may sound daft, but where did you place the spirit level?

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On the most level part of the body.



I'll get my coat.

Rank Amatuer said:

This may sound daft, but where did you place the spirit level?

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On the slam panel and on the foot treads also did an eye level from the side on my drive.

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Nodge68 said:

There's always going to be different opinions on these things. I can't see a small shift in grade making much difference, as there's always going to be some overlap between the oil grades from different manufacturers anyway. Whatever oil you put in is going to be better than the dirty black stuff that came oil.

Click to expand...

HI John.
Thank you for your reply, i was a bit concerned to read that using 75/90 which meets the the GL4 & GL5 criteria you would not get your gears? because when i drove my FL2 after the change it felt & feels a lot smoother, unless i am having the placebo effect.

I chose the oil after i bought the FL2 and googled Castrol MTF 97309 from the owners handbook to which the above came up to use, i had in the past used Westway Lubricants on my R40 and my FL1 which i found to be good.

They state below

5L Synthetic 75w90

Premium Gear / Differential Oil



Synthetic 75w/90 gear oil is a modern high performance premium product manufactured from a blend of synthetic oil, sheer stable viscosity index improvers and a multipurpose extreme pressure additive package.
It offers high levels of performance when compared to straight mineral oil whilst being compatible with mineral oils which enables it to be simply used as a replacement product on a drain and fill basis.

This is a GL-4 and GL-5 Specification synthetic gear oil meaning it is safe for use where yellow metals are present. It contains a buffered sulphur EP additive which helps protect yellow metals found in some gear boxes.

For use in high performance transmissions, spiral bevel axles, transfer boxes, reduction hubs, high load drive axles, hypoid axles and steering units. The use of this product will often smooth and improve manual gear changes in previously “notchy” gear boxes.

I intend to change the gearbox oil every 12 months from now on anyways, so if needed to go to 75/80 i can do, and will do so.

Arctic2 said:

Thank you for your reply, i was a bit concerned to read that using 75/90 which meets the the GL4 & GL5 criteria you would not get your gears? because when i drove my FL2 after the change it felt & feels a lot smoother, unless i am having the placebo effect.

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In years gone by, the use of heavy gear oil in transmissions designed for light oil could effect gear change quality. The design of the synchro rings is what dictates oil viscosity. If the oil stripper (thin rings machined into the synchro), aren't deep enough to "strip" (break through) the thicker oil film, then "baulking" will occur on the gear change. This would become more noticeable as the synchro rings become worn with age.
If however your gearbox is changing gear smoothly, then your synchro rings are fine, and so don't worry. The slight increase in oil viscosity will provide better hot weather protection for the gears and bearings.

Ok so not being 100% on the 75w/90 i have used in the gearbox i purchased this last night it should be here Wednesday 75w/80 so will be changed that day also if weather is kind, the 75w/90 will now act as a flush oil until then.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5L-Synthetic-75w80-75W-80-Gear-Differential-Oil-5-Litres-GL-4-MB-235-10/111894120349?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

The new 75w/80 gear oil arrived this morning, i only ordered it last night about 01.30am in the morning so super fast delivery,
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I am quite surprised in the difference inn colour and thickness from the 75w/90 here below Fig 3
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75w/80 gear oil.
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The two oils side by side for comparison
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I am presuming the 75w/80 will cover the gears quicker than the 75w/90 would, the weekend will see me doing the job once again.

Arctic2 said:

The new 75w/80 gear oil arrived this morning, i only ordered it last night about 01.30am in the morning so super fast delivery,

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I am quite surprised in the difference inn colour and thickness from the 75w/90 here below Fig 3

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75w/80 gear oil.

4

The two oils side by side for comparison

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I am presuming the 75w/80 will cover the gears quicker than the 75w/90 would, the weekend will see me doing the job once again.

Click to expand...

Did you notice any difference going from the 75w90 to 75w80?
I've just bought the 75w90 for mine and the daughter's Fiat 500, with a bit left over for the rear diff on mine, when I get round to fixing that.

Nodge68 said:

Did you notice any difference going from the 75w90 to 75w80?
I've just bought the 75w90 for mine and the daughter's Fiat 500, with a bit left over for the rear diff on mine, when I get round to fixing that.

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John no not really to be honest, as i never really drove it long enough, before i changed it over, the gears felt a little smoother but that could have been the placebo effect,

Arctic2 said:

John no not really to be honest, as i never really drove it long enough, before i changed it over, the gears felt a little smoother but that could have been the placebo effect,

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I suspected as much.

I went with the 75w90 because of its universal for my needs. It might be a bit heavy for the FL2 box, but will also work in the rear diff (whatever I work out for that) and the Fiats we have in our family fleet.