Dhse Gearbox Settings

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Yes I'll let you all know how I get on. My P38 is booked in with Ashcrofts later this month so I'll post back on how it goes.

-Wills :)
 
changed the oil 2day and added the lucas transmission fix, defo made a difference, smoother changes thru the box, 1st to second better but not perfect, if i floor it or press gently its fine , think i will live with it......
 
changed the oil 2day and added the lucas transmission fix, defo made a difference, smoother changes thru the box, 1st to second better but not perfect, if i floor it or press gently its fine , think i will live with it......
CBR,what oil did you replace it with ?.Iam just about to do mine but to use 9.5 lts of Dexron 111 will cost about £70.Did you find a good deal somewhere ?
ONYX.:rolleyes:
 
Hi Onyx
No sure what the oil was , it was bought for me by a m8, and the container went to the tip with the old oil in it, you can only get out about half the oil out so 9.5l would be far more than you need,
I got out about 5l and put in a 4.55l of ATF and a 700ml bottle of Lucas Transmission fix

The local LR garage said sometimes if the oil really dirty its worth changing it and using a cleaner and then changing again a couple of weeks later

Sorry cant be more precise :mad:(
 
Hi Onyx
No sure what the oil was , it was bought for me by a m8, and the container went to the tip with the old oil in it, you can only get out about half the oil out so 9.5l would be far more than you need,
I got out about 5l and put in a 4.55l of ATF and a 700ml bottle of Lucas Transmission fix

The local LR garage said sometimes if the oil really dirty its worth changing it and using a cleaner and then changing again a couple of weeks later

Sorry cant be more precise :mad:(

Cheers, i think i will check condition of oil before i do anything and then maybe do a filter change as well.;)
 
Added the transmission fix today and seems to be the same as everyone else, ie. made an improvement but the 1st/2nd change is still a bit snatchy at certain times. Looks like it would be an exchange box to cure it so unless someone knows different or a garage will do us a block discount then i'll live with it as well !!:eek:
 
Ok i may be overly cautious about this, but you have a specific gearbox oil for the ZF 4HP24 gearbox, and there's a filter in the gearbox too (you can get a kit, with the O rings in it etc) so i cant see the point in just changing the oil and not the filter too, i (think) there’s two different oils for manual and automatic, so chose the correct grade for yours, i think Dexron III is the correct type (for automatics at lest)
 
shop around for the price of the oil and the filters though, some sell them at silly prices, goggle it
 
Since starting the thread I haven't got any further either & problem still there but no worse Before I get swallowed up in technical directions what is the way to check the ATF level ? I know there is no dipstick & it is visual through the filler plug but should it be when hot or cold / Any simple clear advice appreciated. Next step may have to be to transmission specialists, will post back
 
Hi everyone!

I took my P38 down to Ashcrofts on Monday to finally try and sort this problem out. I got it back just this afternoon and everything seems alot better. Certainly no banging/fierce clunking on the change between 1st and 2nd on the way home. I had to drive back from Luton, up the M1 and back to Northampton. Had a few queues on the motorway on my journey back and it was smooth changing from 1st to 2nd every time I pulled away.

I got home and parked and went in to have some lunch and then went out again to do some stuff around town. Again, through stop start traffic in town it seems perfect.

However, I have learnt that things are not always as they seem and I am reserving judgement until Ive had at least a week free from clunky/fierce/banging gear changes.

The important bit which I guess you are all wanting to know about is what was done. Well, I spoke to the guy who carried out the work and he says the valve body of the gearbox was changed. I asked if that was all and he told me that was all they did. For anyone who doesn't know what the valve body (also called the valve block) is then here is a pic below. He said he changed the whole assembly...

vbody.png


This slightly strange thing that struck me is that in the process of getting to this stage they actually sent my specialist a new valve block to fit. Whether it really was new or not I don't know. At the time it made no difference but this one they have fitted this time round seems to have definitely made a difference SO we shall see how it goes. I will keep you all updated to whether its completely solved the problem or whether the problem comes back, as I said earlier I'm withholding any judgement at the moment - im just glad to have my P38 back, never thought I would miss a vehicle so much but almost a week without it in a small courtesy car is not good! :D

-Wills :)
 
Fingers crossed for a result at least for you Wills at last. This is exactly the diagnosis I've had over the phone from two transmission specialists up here (Huddersfield & Cleckheaton) Seems like it's best to face up to the inevitable now before it gets any worse,though it looks like an expensive piece of kit!!
I'll have to shop around & post up the results.I personally wasn't keen on any additives into the gearbox if there is an underlying fault. Threre is a guy in Barnsley I used a few times over the years martin Lowe who certainly knows his stuff & has a workshop like an operating theatre, should go there first,
 
Wills, thanks for the excellent response,it does look an expensive bit of kit but looking at the drawing the 2 shift control solenoid valves sound incriminating dont they.My DHSE doesn't 'bang' into first/second but it is a bit off putting and not the silky ride it should be. Once again cheers and keep us informed of hopefully good news.I live in Stoke-on-Trent so anyone know of someone closer ?:eek:
 
To be honest, like you Onyx, I think (please remember im no gearbox expert so im probably wrong :D) any clunky changing problems could only be caused by valves MV1, MV2 and possibly MV4, I cant see any other reason that you would need to swap the valve block otherwise.

I wonder if you can get hold of the valve individually?? It could be the cure and alot cheaper than replacing the box.

-Wills :)
 
Don't know if it's any help..... My 2.5 dse (1996) has a dip stick - ha ha. Behind the engine oil dip stick (level is fine). I have a bit of a problem when booting it, it can't decide wether to stay in 3rd or drop into 4th. could be the 'box is ready for a change or maybe just needs the filter cleaning, in the mean time it's great fun with the saxo brigage off the lights!!! Cheers, Ian
 
Just thought I would keep this thread updated, I have now been driving my P38 daily since I got her back from Ashcrofts and unfortunately the clunking/fierce change has not dissapeared. It was OK for the first few days but then it gradually came back.

I will be on the phone to Ashcrofts tomorrow and will keep this thread updated with what's next on the cards - short of changing the entire gearbox out I don't know what else it could be!

I do have one suggestion from someone about the torque converter and will put this to Ashcrofts tomorrow so will see what they say but as said, will keep this thread updated!

-Wills :)
 
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