P38A hot start mod

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hot start issue is a bit down the list on things needed to be fixed but figured i might as well order the parts for the fix.was having a look around and came across this thread
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/diesel-hot-starting-fault-p38.21995/page-11
unfortunately i can't get the links in the thread to work,can anyone point me to a working link for parts need and a wiring schematic
The hot start fix is a bodge, re-time the FIP to account for the chain stretch and it's not needed. Check the FIP modulation at idle with the engine at normal running temperature, it should be close to 50%. It's quite likely that, like my project car, you will find it's nearer 70%:eek:
 
The hot start fix is a bodge, re-time the FIP to account for the chain stretch and it's not needed. Check the FIP modulation at idle with the engine at normal running temperature, it should be close to 50%. It's quite likely that, like my project car, you will find it's nearer 70%:eek:
i've nothing against bodges but if it cost less to re-time the pump i'm all for that;)
how would i check the pump modulation?
 
Low modulation static is too far advanced. High modulation static is too far retarded. When engine is stopped as injection pump internal fuel pressure bleeds off, pump returns to advanced static position ready for next start up. The hot start mod tricks the ECU into thinking the engine is cold, so it sets cold start fuel and throttle position and activates glow plugs even when the engine is hot..
 
see what your modulation with Nanocom is first.
I found a Tiggapiglet hotstart on my vehicle when I set the static. The giveaway was two rogue wires exiting the ecm box.
I disconnected hotstart but had to put it back on as it was having none of it
 
Mine came with a hot start fitted and still has it.

I believe @Dopey on here was instrumental in working out what was required when people first realised there was an issue. They shouldn't cost much. Chances are you can get one off a scrapper for even less.
 
Mine came with a hot start fitted and still has it.

I believe @Dopey on here was instrumental in working out what was required when people first realised there was an issue. They shouldn't cost much. Chances are you can get one off a scrapper for even less.
 
I had the static modulation checked on the 2.5, (Nanocom), it was about 10 when it should be about 4. I saw someone online tapping the top back of the FIP with a rubber mallet to cure it. Not done that yet on mine, but the recently (last week), fitted 'hotstart' thingy interferes with the smooth acceleration so will need to be removed and the FIP timed properly. Driving back from Les Landes on cruise control, the rev counter showed very unsettled movements.
I was somewhat confused before it was fitted as when the engine was hot the 'glowplug' light still came on, as if a relay had already been fitted ! Could not find one anywhere. The only change that had been made was the fitting of an uprated ECU from 'Turners', which maybe included a 'hotstart' fix, but was not mentioned to me.
Very satisfied with the ECU and their service just to note. The trip to "sassarose" was very useful, he has 4 P38's and a wealth of knowledge. I like Datatek 's idea of button on the dash, cool!.
 
I had the static modulation checked on the 2.5, (Nanocom), it was about 10 when it should be about 4. I saw someone online tapping the top back of the FIP with a rubber mallet to cure it. Not done that yet on mine, but the recently (last week), fitted 'hotstart' thingy interferes with the smooth acceleration so will need to be removed and the FIP timed properly. Driving back from Les Landes on cruise control, the rev counter showed very unsettled movements.
I was somewhat confused before it was fitted as when the engine was hot the 'glowplug' light still came on, as if a relay had already been fitted ! Could not find one anywhere. The only change that had been made was the fitting of an uprated ECU from 'Turners', which maybe included a 'hotstart' fix, but was not mentioned to me.
Very satisfied with the ECU and their service just to note. The trip to "sassarose" was very useful, he has 4 P38's and a wealth of knowledge. I like Datatek 's idea of button on the dash, cool!.

Don't know what you mean about modulation should be 2.5, 4 or 10. It should be 50% +/-5%.
 
Reading from the Nanocom, the diesel dosage normally would be 4, mines about 10, maybe that's , 45% to 50% as compared to mine 100% or could be the potentiometer and the quantity servo control unit readings. Turner confirmed today the upgraded ECU did not have a hotfix integrated.
Hotfix removed today runs much much better and powerful, there is no hotfix fitted anywhere on the car visible to me yet the glow plugs still come on even when the engines hot or very hot, that's not normal, how could the temp sensor do that even if it's not functioning correctly, sorting that first before considering a hotfix is the wise way to go I feel.
 
Reading from the Nanocom, the diesel dosage normally would be 4, mines about 10, maybe that's , 45% to 50% as compared to mine 100% or could be the potentiometer and the quantity servo control unit readings. Turner confirmed today the upgraded ECU did not have a hotfix integrated.
Hotfix removed today runs much much better and powerful, there is no hotfix fitted anywhere on the car visible to me yet the glow plugs still come on even when the engines hot or very hot, that's not normal, how could the temp sensor do that even if it's not functioning correctly, sorting that first before considering a hotfix is the wise way to go I feel.
Modulation has nothing to do with fuel quantity.
 
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