TD5 defender pulling to the right eventhough all brake components are new

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Radiant

Member
Posts
53
Location
Austria
hey,
as the title says, my td5 90 is pulling to the right when braking. no matter if strong or soft. the brakes are also squealing for some odd reason even though the components are all new (bearmach calipers, ferodo pads and delphi discs) also pretty much all brake lines are new and have been bled 4 times now. no abs/tc on my defender.

wheel bearings also seem fine.

could the rear be causing this problem? i know my rear brakes are not braking alot my fronts do alot of the work i just havent had the time to change the rear pads and discs yet.

i know there is some sort of valve that controls the pressure from left to right, could it be that?

all bushings new (2000km ago), alignment been done a few weeks ago and hasnt changed anything.

my left swivel ball is making a ticking noise that correlates to wheel speed, thinking its the joint inside the swivel as it goes away under breaking as the wheel has no play.

any advice?

thanks
 
Were the disks cleaned before fitting? They come with an anti rust oil which needs to be wiped off before fitting/use. Are the pads contaminated on one side? Possibly one of the new callipers is sticking?
 
If its pulling to the right, suspect the left hand brake assembly.
Strip pads. check clean and try again, if the same swap pads left wheel to right wheel and vice versa, if the same only really leaves the calliper.
 
If its pulling to the right, suspect the left hand brake assembly.
Strip pads. check clean and try again, if the same swap pads left wheel to right wheel and vice versa, if the same only really leaves the calliper.
why does it pull to the other side?
 
If the left calliper is not working properly then all the braking effort will be applied to the right so it will pull to the right. i.e. the left wheel will slew as it is not being braked properly.
take all pads out and carefully push on the brake pedal. the sticking piston should be obvious. put all the rest back together, push on the pedal until the sticking piston comes out then grease it with calliper grease. Push it back in, then out again, repeat all this until it is working properly. Calliper grease available from motorbike places as car places have never heard of it.
 
I had this recently.
Well, found two issues really, drop arm nut was loose and also the nut on the ball joint. My bad as I had not long replaced both.
Does your steering feel a bit 'floaty' too?
 
If your pads are contaminated on the left, they won't grip the disk and it will pull to the right. If your calliper is sticking/ not pushing the pads out then again they won't grip the disk and the right hand unit will be doing all the work. Do as @lynall says and clean the pads try them and if needed swap them over and try again.
 
Your post is initially a little confusing as you say all brake components are new. Faulty rear brakes create an impressive pulling effect as the wheel that brakes acts as a pivot point.
 
Your post is initially a little confusing as you say all brake components are new. Faulty rear brakes create an impressive pulling effect as the wheel that brakes acts as a pivot point.

This +1, OP you should ensure your rear brakes are in tip top condition and set correctly too
 
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