Series 3 1977 - SWB Rebuild - Slowly......

Landrover77 said:

When Viewing the Parts Drawings and item are referenced LEFT or RIGHT is this viewed when sat in drivers seat, looking at front of vehicle?????
Mountings and Rubbers

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Sat in it, your vehicle is right hand drive

Thanks Marmaduke, there are various brackets that are marked Up Right / Left etc, i was just wondering how this is viewed, yep my SWB is right hand drive.

GEARBOX IN!!! super pleased.
all just loosely bolted up at moment to test fit.

then test fitted the bulk head. bit of filling of new Galv to get bolts through but fitted super easy - was expecting a struggle.

will be changing a few nuts to Nylocks on final install

Any One Spot any Issues so far?

Bit of Sunshine so thought i would drag the Rear tub out.....
any suggestions for tidying things up. i don't want to get into ripping it apart too much.

i plan on sanding & brush painting with Paintman Paints.

Next Dumb question, How do i clean / polish this?

Clean the powdered alloy with vinegar and water, only use a brass brush or tooth brush.
Manifold dishwasher if you can get away with it.

doing a Soak in Brake cleaning Fluid first then just picked up some Brass Wire brush from screwfix

YRM has some nice shiny bits, where the tub rear bolts to chassis looks over tatty and needs attention even if just popping on some reinforcing plates
https://yrmit.co.uk/product-category/series-2-3-swb/rear-tub-series-2-3-swb/

When I rebuilt my Series 3, the mouting holes at the front of the tub were corroded similar to the ones in this photo.

I cut some lengths of flat steel strip, if I remember correctly 3 x 40mm and drilled holes through them to match the tub mounting holes. I also drilled some extra holes in the tub and steel strip to bolt to the strip in place through the good tub metal.

There is plenty of room under the tub for the steel strips and bolts. I spray painted them black before bolting in place then coated everything with underseal. Hopefully they should last until whenever the next rebuild may be.

When I replaced my tub floor the corrosion was worst where the steel crossmembers touched the Ally top hat Sections and Floor, although the steel is stronger you won’t get the electrolytic corrosion with more ally or put an insulator between the two metals , I think yrm mention this on their how to videos

Some Engine rebuild worries,
my engine doesn't have Head Bolts is this an issue, should i find some?
the Haynes manual talks about End float on the Camshaft - just refitted it and put the retainer plat on. the camshaft still moves backwards... i haven't yet fitted oil pump & Distributer shart stuff. will this be ok?

Landrover77 said:

my engine doesn't have Head Bolts is this an issue, should i find some?

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If it was running ok without them shouldn’t be a problem

Landrover77 said:

the Haynes manual talks about End float on the Camshaft - just refitted it and put the retainer plat on. the camshaft still moves backwards... i haven't yet fitted oil pump & Distributer shart stuff. will this be ok

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I think this is usual and firms up When the cam wheels on

Landrover77 said:

how do i find out Nut & Bolt sizes used on the landy?
i could use the part number and purhase from paddocks or similar but must be possible to work out whats used and purchase locally.

pressing one is what size is used on the 4 small bolts on the underside of the Steering realay? i will need to Tap these as the its a galvanises chassis.

many thanks for any pointers.

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You need to get a pdf copy of the workshop manual it’s got all the information on thread size as an introduction.

Your pictures jogged my memory of where rear tub stays are fixed - thank you. Seems like a lot of corrosion unfortunately - good luck.