Best anti-rust treatment for a patched D2 chassis

ronsealdeath said:

The Dynax s50 can be applied on the drive no ramps from the can. I did mine last week and it was a piece of p. Only £50 for 3 cans and did chassis internals and sills.
By the way, someone in this post stated Fertan needs to be washed off. That’s nonsense. It forms a compound with the iron in the steel that can just be painted over.
Also, my D2 came treated in Mercausol with a bill for £550 from the PO. They did a crap job and i did better with dynax. So forget taking it to a garage, just use the Bilt Hamber cans.

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Dynax S50 sounds the way to go, thanks for this. I take it you need to know what to do with it and where to apply it? Are there specific locations to get it inside the chassis? I could go to my friend who has hydraulic ramps and could look around with a lamp and try to get it right, first time i have done anything like this.

resto_d1 said:

Sounds good!! Yeah I forgot too lol. There is about 5 coats of different paint under there too!
I’ve filled the d1 chassis with dynax all over the back 1 haven’t started the front yet. I was working on it the other day and had my hand in the chassis and it’s almost a rubberized film in there.
I’m booked in for the 90 to have the full dinitrol treatment including steam clean, needle gun then all the cavity wax and outer surface treatment. I saw one on the ramp at the place doing it and although it’s expensive (they have it for 3 days) it seems like a must before winter on it. Especially as chassis looks decent with only the rear crossmember going crusty. Welding in a new one prior to it going in

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Are you referring to Before N After re the dinitrol treatment and steam clean?

Right, I have spent a good hour or two reading everything I can and I agree that Bilt Hamber stuff certainly sounds like the mutts nutts.

But..... given my situation, not sure which product(s) to go for...

The chassis of my D2 has never been coated with any type of protection or oils etc. It's therefore bare but has surface rust of course.

Should I coat the surfaces with Hydrate 80 (inhibitor) first?
Either way, I am wondering whether to go for S50 or UB for the outer surfaces. I see Dynax S50 is designed/recommended for inside the chassis, but i see reviews with people saying its better or outer surfaces too as its so tough and resistant to abrasion. Any comments appreciated - I want to get this decision right first time, which would be a first in itself for me

john snoo said:

Right, I have spent a good hour or two reading everything I can and I agree that Bilt Hamber stuff certainly sounds like the mutts nutts.

But..... given my situation, not sure which product(s) to go for...

The chassis of my D2 has never been coated with any type of protection or oils etc. It's therefore bare but has surface rust of course.

Should I coat the surfaces with Hydrate 80 (inhibitor) first?
Either way, I am wondering whether to go for S50 or UB for the outer surfaces. I see Dynax S50 is designed/recommended for inside the chassis, but i see reviews with people saying its better or outer surfaces too as its so tough and resistant to abrasion. Any comments appreciated - I want to get this decision right first time, which would be a first in itself for me

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I use BH stuff because, IMO, it is the best. I'd suggest it essential that you convert / stabilise the rust first - then use UB in the abrasion risk areas, and S50 everywhere else .... I'd also suggest that you contact BH for their advice - I have found them REALLY helpful when I have rung

Defo not before and after no! Dinitrol have approved treatment centres.

Disco1BFG said:

I use BH stuff because, IMO, it is the best. I'd suggest it essential that you convert / stabilise the rust first - then use UB in the abrasion risk areas, and S50 everywhere else .... I'd also suggest that you contact BH for their advice - I have found them REALLY helpful when I have rung

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This - UB = underbody, s50 = cavity i.e internal. Hydrate 80 is to stabilize/convert rust. You will need to go around the outer with a needle gun/wire wheel getting all the flaky crap off and get it as good as possible first. No need for hydrate 80 on clean metal. I’d paint your chassis - not just coat it. You could go; hydrate 80, electrox then epoxy mastic. Once all is done then coat it in UB. All the aforementioned is bilt hamber to keep it simple and one shopping cart

resto_d1 said:

You will need to go around the outer with a needle gun/wire wheel getting all the flaky crap off and get it as good as possible first

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+1 - though, my preference is for sand, going "quite" quickly - removes all the sh*t, but makes the mess from hell

Disco1BFG said:

+1 - though, my preference is for sand, going "quite" quickly - removes all the sh*t, but makes the mess from hell

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It’s such a **** job to do lol! I think the posters above are d2 owners too so particular attention around rear as they’re made out of tinfoil

resto_d1 said:

It’s such a **** job to do lol! I think the posters above are d2 owners too so particular attention around rear as they’re made out of tinfoil

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If only, tinfoil doesnt rust!

Can you spray the BH products over previous Waxoyl coatings or would I have to remove it somehow?

Si Click said:

Can you spray the BH products over previous Waxoyl coatings or would I have to remove it somehow?

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The biggest thing I’d say is knowing what’s decent. You can only **** with the cock you got!!
If your going to the effort and expense of fixing/protecting, you need to know where your starting point is. Bare in mind people cover up rust by coating in under seal too. Strip back on the outer as per above posts. Can’t see it doing any harm putting cavity wax over wax oil. You haven’t really much choice if so anyway

Si Click said:

Can you spray the BH products over previous Waxoyl coatings?

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Yep. I have, without issue - I used to use waxoyl years ago when it was worth using - I.E. before they took all the "goodness" out of it, and made it "safe" - As this has worn off tractors and such, I have over coated the waxoyl ..... I have, of course, treated any rust as part of the process, but where the waxoyl has stood up - I have just cleaned the area of "crud" and carried on ..... been doing this for a few years now - something like 5, and no issues yet... in fact, probably less issues, as the BH stuff is protecting my investment significantly better than the older, good, waxoyl, IMO.

I wont be able to do four coats, paint etc! Not sure I will get time for much clean up either. Will have to pay for ramp time and can't make too much mess in there so i am a bit limited. There isn't much loose stuff on my chassis though so hopefully Hydrate 80 to convert the rust (if that phrase is correct, not sure i believe the hype of products claiming to make the rust gender fluid), then UB and S50 where they should go. Will just be glad to get my chassis coated in something before winter

Hiya

very interesting thread and indeed I’ve always used dinitrol

may i ask if anyone has used this product plse

https://www.landroverblogger.com/product/metalmorphosis

Only areas that seem to be appearing on the the D3 are the sills and where the towing sockets are , wish to treat my rear towing socket area , luckily the rest of the chassis is solid inc the sills, think where steps are fitted they can become a water trap

will be removing the rear plastic bumper to gain full access to the rear cross member, will then inject inside and spray outside

many thks

Did also recently buy a shultz gun, made up a 2 foot extension , where I can use it on my karcher to clean cavity’s out first then use it to spray the insides

managed to get some small water lances , also thought it was a good idea to buy a mini water trap and regulator to attach at the gun, Also do have a water trap and regulator at the compressor

Ohhhh..... thats nice.... ohhhhhh......

tilly2 said:

Ohhhh..... thats nice.... ohhhhhh......

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lol, Many thks, glad u liked it

also got given some second hand rock sliders for the D3 , there 3 inch in diameter so pretty strong, also anti slip rubber on top

sanding the sliders/ brackets and been painting the outside with hammerite , also going to try some Tetraschutz for the inside of the rock sliders, didn’t think there was any point spending out on dinotrol for them

bought 2 x shultz 1 litre cans of the Tetrosyl TSH010 for £12

Laid a spray can next to them for scale

will be interesting the next time I park up of it hearing someone’s door ping off the rock sliders , lol

Just ordered some of this as I want to treat round my towing sockets , some of the paint has lifted in a very small area so prefer to treat it now before it begins to spread over time

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fertan-R...189668&hash=item26252618ee:g:LvMAAOSwa0ZfHdY7

Fertan is great stuff - cheap and effective

Disco1BFG said:

Fertan is great stuff - cheap and effective

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that’s great and many thks

plus peace of mind also getting a good review from ur goodself seeing ur extremely knowledgeable

Going to take both the 12S and 12n sockets off, then use an electric sanding file to ensure I clean all the crap off , then a wire brush to take any loose flakes off

As per pic, it’s right on the edges where some of this rust has formed, used a hammer and punch to test the rest of the metal and thats sound

will be removing the plastic rear bumper, already used an endoscope and this is the only area that’s showing signs of rust

Have the tetrosyl which I’ll use my shultz gun to spray inside of the rear crossmember

is is best to just use a brush to apply it plse

won’t be refitting the sockets as I’ll be installing a new magnetic style recharging connector , plus wonder if it’s worth drilling a hole in the bottom to stop any pooling of water in that area

many thks