Discovery td5 SLABS Earthingpoint

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Mark Ormond

Active Member
Posts
253
Location
Derby
Can anyone tell me where the earth point for the SLABS is
Had search on here and manual can’t find anything
Thanks mark
 
Can anyone tell me where the earth point for the SLABS is
Had search on here and manual can’t find anything
Thanks mark
Good point! There's more than one. If you mean the earth, CO561 for the SLABS modulator, it is behind the air box. You need to remove the air box to see it. If you mean CO362 for the SLABS ECU, that's interesting because it is missing from the RAVE electrical library. It is roughly shown in the diagram below, which would make it quite close to the SLABS ECU itself.
upload_2020-8-1_19-9-36.png

Mr Fery, the world expert in these things, may jump in but he has a bit of a distraction on his own Disco at present.

Good luck.
 
If you look on the right hand side near the battery you will have 3 earth points bolted down,slabs is the middle one. They are on strut like piece of metal.The ECU one is behind the panel on left hand side passenger foot well.you will see a white connector block with several black wires going in,the earth is connected to this by a bolt to the side of the car.
Makes it easier if you take out the glove box.
I had lots of trouble with slabs so traced it.
 
Like said, the SLABS ECU earth terminal id is C0362 which is fed to pin 12 on SLABS connector C0504. These images should help you locate it :


C0362.JPG


SLABS.JPG
 
Thanks
Iam looking for any earth that may relate to or cause issues with TC
Any earth fault would trigger 3 amigos, there can't be an earth fault to mix up only the TC, better describe what's happenning and if you dont get 3 amigos forget about chasing earth points
 
It this on going twitchey TC all wheel bearings good all read 1100 ohms
So you go down very ruff farm drive nothing happens
Continue down normal road and then suddenly after day a mile the TC goes nuts for no reason then after a few miles back to normal
I thought bad connection but you would think the ruff farm drive would set if off
Sorry when plugged in all wheels show same voltage and no faults are logged
Trust me it’s a very odd one had motor 10 years had land rovers for 40 years so I do know a bit about them but this has me flummoxed
Mark
 
It this on going twitchey TC all wheel bearings good all read 1100 ohms
So you go down very ruff farm drive nothing happens
Continue down normal road and then suddenly after day a mile the TC goes nuts for no reason then after a few miles back to normal
I thought bad connection but you would think the ruff farm drive would set if off
Sorry when plugged in all wheels show same voltage and no faults are logged
Trust me it’s a very odd one had motor 10 years had land rovers for 40 years so I do know a bit about them but this has me flummoxed
Mark
Might be an intermittent bad connection(not as bad to be open circuit which would trigger the amigos) in one of the sensor's plugs or at the ECU plug which gets the sensor inputs, or there is play in one of the reluctor rings and when the symptom occurs one of the wheel speed inputs gets different than the others so the ECU considers it a wheel spin hence it activates TC. As i said it has nothing to do with earth, it's something on the speed inputs path . The worst scenario is ECU or modulator misbehaviour. Give some contact spray in each sensor's plug and in the ECU plugs

BTW, do you see the TC warning when it happens ?
 
Yes I see the TC LIGHT when it happens most times but sometimes TC kicks in and I get no TC light is this indicating something else
 
If it's just a short kick the light might not come on but normally when the TC works the warning should work too. If you are 100% sure that all the hubs have 60 teeth on the reluctor ring(as some aftermarkets have less) and you cleaned the sensor inputs path then IMO you should rule out the ECU
 
No it’s never a short kick when it’s happening it really goes for it you can feel it pulling the car up but definitely don’t always come on
Can’t be sure about number of teeth but never did it when first fitted 6 mth ago
 
Ok so I know it’s bad to assume anything
But if all relucta rings are equal
But one has to bigger gap how would this show up when taking meter readings
 
The stationary voltage readings are showing only one thing: that the circuit is not interrupted and the sensor's resistance is within range at that very moment, it's part of the system self test and as long as the voltages are between 2 - 2.4V the test is passed, if one is out => 3 amigos an a fault code for that one, the number of teeth or air gap comes into play only in movement
 
So one of my newish front hubs could quite conceivably be say 1 tooth short and it wouldn’t be picked up or show on any readings
Just do no more than make the TC over react
 
So one of my newish front hubs could quite conceivably be say 1 tooth short and it wouldn’t be picked up or show on any readings
Just do no more than make the TC over react
That's correct, though the bad hubs have usually 55 teeth insted of 60 and no other way to figure this out other than remove the sensor, make a mark on one slot and turn over the hub to count the teeth... quite many such cheap hubs on the market these days... though if it was that it should have misbehaved from the beginning
 
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