p38 hit telegraph pole after steering drag link balljoint failed

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My only personal experience was when I wrote my Honda Blackbird off. I asked about buying it back and they wanted over a grand, they only paid out just over 3 grand. The front end was mangled beyond repair but I was going to buy another and if they would have let me have it for less than £500 it would have been a good source of parts. A friend recently had his Mondeo written off for relatively minor damage, they paid him £2500 and wanted £900 to let him have it back. It might be worth it if you can replace all the damaged bits yourself cheaply. The garage repair estimate was over £3000

Col
Well i've told the collection firm to hold off until I tell them I want it collecting.
Have taken the old drag link off and waiting for a new one £31.50 inc postage,
Had a good look underneath and its only a bent radius arm and a leaking diff where the propshaft has pushed into the casing as its a solid prop with no sliding mechanism. I had to replace the front prop with a new one for £100 when I bought the car 4 years ago as there was a shimmy whilst driving it.Another local garage(not the MOT garage ) quoted me about 300 quid to repair the old one lol. I told him I could buy a new one for 100 and paid 35 to get the MOT garage to fit it.Needless to say I never went back to the 1st garage (rip off merchants). Mind you I only paid £900 for the vehicle in the first place. When I bought it someone had taken the cd player and dsp amp out - rare as hen's teeth these days, found one online in Kiev for £100.
Replaced the bottom tailgate and straps, fixed the rear wiper motor as it was jammed, both front window winder mechanisms, new keyfob and ignition barrel and drivers door lock, new Cooper Weathermaster tyres all round, wheel cenre caps,discs and calipers and hoses all round, brake backplates and hoses, aircon condensor and dryer, rocker gaskets, brake accumulator, gearbox and filter fluid drain and refill £300, becm motherboard, clear front indicators, plugs and HT leads, rear loadcover, drivers seat base as leather was damaged, recoloured the leather on the steering wheel. Also replaced all 4 door cards (lightstone beige) and water shedders. Got it 100% sorted and this happened. Gutted is an understatement.
 
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Good call on stopping the collection. Think about what its worth to you and if you want to fix it yerself without insurance claim. If the bastids scrap it yer wont get back what yer put in.
 
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It was mot'd last October but wasn't picked up then (MOT garage did mention a creak when turning steering but that was all he said). You can run a DVLA MOT check to verify that from the reg in the photos.
It's only done 14 miles a day to work and back from October until lockdown in March.
Has been parked up from March until Monday this week apart from the odd food shopping trip.
Car has had gearbox drained and refilled with fluid and new filter before lockdown, also front and rear diffs oil change, aircon condensor and dryer, brake accumulator, new exhaust, plugs and ht leads and engine oil and filter during 4 months of furlough.


The creak will be the joint seizing, see it every now and then, I just pop outside and borrow some druggies syringe and inject some atf sorted.
 
Well i've told the collection firm to hold off until I tell them I want it collecting.
Have taken the old drag link off and waiting for a new one £31.50 inc postage,

Good call on stopping the collection. Think about what its worth to you and if you want to fix it yerself without insurance claim. If the bastids scrap it yer wont get back what uer put in.

What stage is the insurance claim at? Have they arranged collection in order to assess the vehicle? or have they already written it off and collection is for disposal? Do they have photos of the vehicle in its damaged condition? If it is written off then they own the vehicle AS IT IS and you should not be removing or changing anything. Altering the vehicle before assessment might invalidate your claim. Even recovery firms are penalised if they further damage an accident damaged car. :eek:
 
Had a good look underneath and its only a bent radius arm and a leaking diff where the propshaft has pushed into the casing as its a solid prop with no sliding mechanism. I had to replace the front prop with a new one for £100 when I bought the car 4 years ago as there was a shimmy whilst driving it.

No sliding mechanism? Not seen one like that. Sealed for life? How does it handle the different heights?

You need to agree a write-off price with the insurance company. Always reject first offer as it will be a ****-take. The guy used to come out to value it. Then you agree a scrap value to buy it back off them and use the difference to repair it.
 
Well i've told the collection firm to hold off until I tell them I want it collecting.
Have taken the old drag link off and waiting for a new one £31.50 inc postage,
Had a good look underneath and its only a bent radius arm and a leaking diff where the propshaft has pushed into the casing as its a solid prop with no sliding mechanism. I had to replace the front prop with a new one for £100 when I bought the car 4 years ago as there was a shimmy whilst driving it.Another local garage(not the MOT garage ) quoted me about 300 quid to repair the old one lol. I told him I could buy a new one for 100 and paid 35 to get the MOT garage to fit it.Needless to say I never went back to the 1st garage (rip off merchants). Mind you I only paid £900 for the vehicle in the first place. When I bought it someone had taken the cd player and dsp amp out - rare as hen's teeth these days, found one online in Kiev for £100.
Replaced the bottom tailgate and straps, fixed the rear wiper motor as it was jammed, both front window winder mechanisms, new keyfob and ignition barrel and drivers door lock, new Cooper Weathermaster tyres all round, wheel cenre caps,discs and calipers and hoses all round, brake backplates and hoses, aircon condensor and dryer, rocker gaskets, brake accumulator, gearbox and filter fluid drain and refill £300, becm motherboard, clear front indicators, plugs and HT leads, rear loadcover, drivers seat base as leather was damaged, recoloured the leather on the steering wheel. Also replaced all 4 door cards (lightstone beige) and water shedders. Got it 100% sorted and this happened. Gutted is an understatement.

If it has bent the radius arm it will have done considerable damage to the chassis cross member it mounts through.
 
What stage is the insurance claim at? Have they arranged collection in order to assess the vehicle? or have they already written it off and collection is for disposal? Do they have photos of the vehicle in its damaged condition? If it is written off then they own the vehicle AS IT IS and you should not be removing or changing anything. Altering the vehicle before assessment might invalidate your claim. Even recovery firms are penalised if they further damage an accident damaged car. :eek:
Collection was supposed to be yesterday for assessment(Friday) but I put it off . Insurance haven't asked for photos because I assume they would wait for the engineers report.
 
No sliding mechanism? Not seen one like that. Sealed for life? How does it handle the different heights?

You need to agree a write-off price with the insurance company. Always reject first offer as it will be a ****-take. The guy used to come out to value it. Then you agree a scrap value to buy it back off them and use the difference to repair it.
I think it may have a sliding mechanism yes - can't remember now as it was 4 years ago :)
 
Hope your ok after that smash what sort of speed were you doing
About 30 mph ran me into and along the hedgerow for about 40 feet, bounced off the telegraph pole and ended up about another 40 feet past it. Airbags didnt deploy. Got no dash displays now just the SRS light. Stll starts and runs as no damage to radiator or aircon condensor or dryer. Want to drive it to a friends garage to get it on his 4 post lift for a proper look but worried I will do damage the diff as all the oil has leaked out now. Its either damaged the diff housing or the seal is compromised between diff and housing or pinion seal maybe damaged as axle is pushed back about 2 inches on the passenger side.
 
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If it has bent the radius arm it will have done considerable damage to the chassis cross member it mounts through.
here is the pole
 
If it has bent the radius arm it will have done considerable damage to the chassis cross member it mounts through.
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If it has bent the radius arm it will have done considerable damage to the chassis cross member it mounts through.
Crossmember looks straight to me - pics from n/s and o/s
 

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More pics - not sure if the rear track rod should be straight or have that kink to clear the front diff. Looks like the is a crack in the diff housing - hence the oil leak. After its taken for assessment and assuming i buy the salvage back I would be happy to sort the underneath out for now and tackle the bodywork later at my leisure.
 

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