Series 3 Adjusting steering box

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

85Santana3

Active Member
Posts
284
Location
Canada
Hello people
There are a couple of threads about this topic which I have read and watched a couple of videos but still not clear how tight should the adjusting nut be?
I opened the cover today and tried it.
It was tight to begin I loosened and tightened it again. Quite rankly did not make any difference. I am not sure if I did it right.
To begin with, should the front be lifted or not? (I did not lift)
Your advice and help is greatly appreciated
 
To do it correctly you will need to isolate the steering box from the rest of the system and tighten the adjuster until you have 10 to 14 lb ins turning torque at the steering wheel, you cant make the adjustment with the box connected.
 
i doubt youll achieve a perfect book setting without it been far to stiff or notchy just wobble the wheel back and forth and remove as much free play but still easily steerable
 
Should front be lifted or not?
Also, I have no idea how to "isolate". What do you mean?
thank you both for replies
 
I was under the impression the preload on the steering box was set by the bearing shims not the adjuster.
With wheels straight ahead adjuster should be screwed in till it goes finger tight then the locknut tightened.
By isolate he meant disconnect from the load ie remove relay arm or trackrod ball joint so no load when your setting it up.
If you overtighten the adjuster it causes wear on the fork and cone of the steering box. see attached pics.
Have you read the workshop manual?
 

Attachments

  • DSCF1901.JPG
    DSCF1901.JPG
    279.7 KB · Views: 227
  • DSCF1903.JPG
    DSCF1903.JPG
    276.1 KB · Views: 353
As above, and yes, read the manual.

There are two pre load settings, one set by shims for the cup and cone worm support bearings and another that sets the pre load on the recirculation balls on the worm and by default the fork to cone clearance. As you say if you just tighten up the adjuster screw it would be very easy to overload the whole assembly, if you still have play with the correct turning torque you have other issues that need investigating, don't just keep winding in the adjuster to hide the problem..
 
Lift the wheels. Undo the lock nut and screw the ajduster in and out and clean the threads. If there's dirt on the threads you can't feel what's going on. The wear is near the centre so the worry is getting the centre right and then it being too stiff or damaged when you get to full lock. The adjuster should be finger tight, but iin practice if you keep turning the steering you will find that still finger tight it will screw in up to 1/2 turn more. If you get under 2" at the steering wheel rim you are doing OK.
 
Maybe I have the wrong manual? Mine in page 211 has only 4 short lines. Doesn't mention anything about lifting or isolating.
If you overtighten the adjuster it causes wear on the fork and cone of the steering box
That is what I am worried about.
Problem is I am not even sure if it is a steering box problem.
 
Maybe I have the wrong manual? Mine in page 211 has only 4 short lines. Doesn't mention anything about lifting or isolating. That is what I am worried about.
Problem is I am not even sure if it is a steering box problem.
you dont need to lift or isolate just rock the steering wheel,its worth adjusting the adjuster but it only removes play between fork and cone, people tend to try and over adjust it trying to remove other wear such as in worm and bearings which it wont do,most steering boxes i see need a new column and reciprocating ball assembly plus the 2 bearing sets
 
Thats why you must clean the threads and do it carefully. Odss on it will improve it a bit, but only if you find the position where it has JUST removed the clearance and that takes a few goes and a very light touch.
 
Land Rover have provided you with the gift of a metric, it would seem rather churlish to ignore it. Tightening the adjuster finger tight wont provide anything like the preload required. It really wont take much longer to do it properly and if you cant achieve the factory specification then you probably have deeper issues with your steering which shouldn't be ignored.
 
That's why you must clean the threads and do it carefully.
Rob do I have to take out the square thing thing to clean the threads? The only threads I see are where the bigger nut goes (the tightening nut)
Citizen you are right but it requires tools which I do not have.
I have done what you guys suggested and it has improved drastically on a straight line. When going left or right we are still moving too far.
Thanks everybody for your help.
 
Last edited:
Unscrew the locking nut and clean that, then unscrew the adjuster far enough to clean the threads (I think it comes out but then so will the oil) You want to be able to screw it in with light finger pressure and do the same with the lock nut, then you can feel when it closes up the play. Keep wiggling the steering wheel with the wheels off the ground and a very light pressure on the adjuster.
 
Back
Top