Hi All
Many thanks if you are taking the time to read my post.
I was wonder if anybody could answer a few questions regarding my Freelander 2005 TD4.
It has started to overheat and the garage stated that the result of a Coolant Block Test indicated an issue with the Cylinder Head.
The options are new cylinder head gasket and/or head skimmed or replacement engine.
I was surprised as these engines are meant to be bullet proof and expected that it was just the water pump that had failed as the top hose was very hot, bottom hose was cold and there is no loss of coolant. No milky deposit in oil cap or coolant. Engine not smoking, apart from a brief puff on start up when cold, which it has done as far as I can remember.
I was dismissing the original thermostat as the vehicle never ran very hot and I had installed the Rover 75 thermostat mod to the radiator top hose about 5yrs ago.
I had been running Torque via OBD2 just to keep an eye on things and the engine would reach about 92 deg before the engine temperature dropped when the Rover 75 mod thermostat kicked in (thermostat is rated at 72 deg)
Now that it is overheating, I have since removed the Rover 75 Mod thermostat and it tested ok.
I can flush through the radiator top to bottom as well as flush from the coolant bottle to the bottom radiator hose (disconnected) I can also observe water from the bottom of the Radiator i.e. flushing in both directions.
I have briefly started the engine with the bottom hose disconnected, and observed coolant being expelled from the bottom of the radiator with the hose disconnected. I assume this is because it is not now pressurised...
I have owned the Freelander for 9yrs, it idles about 75 deg for ever more but drive it hard I can get it to nearly 100 deg. before I chicken out and switch it off to cool down. I can drive a good 5 miles at 50 MPH and it may reach +90deg depending on my driving style. Normally it would take a lot longer to reach this temperature.
So, my questions are…
1.Did fitting the Rover 75 mod thermostat cause the Cylinder Head to fail?
2.Since my original thermostat was stuck somewhere in the middle i.e. not fully closing. Is it possible that it has now stuck fully closed or is it just down to a blocked channel within the engine block? I have tried an engine flush.
As the vehicle has 152k and I had just spent £1k on it last month, it’s not financially viable to repair as there are a few other issues that need attention before the MoT runs out in Sept.
Appreciate any thoughts in advance on this.
Many thanks if you are taking the time to read my post.
I was wonder if anybody could answer a few questions regarding my Freelander 2005 TD4.
It has started to overheat and the garage stated that the result of a Coolant Block Test indicated an issue with the Cylinder Head.
The options are new cylinder head gasket and/or head skimmed or replacement engine.
I was surprised as these engines are meant to be bullet proof and expected that it was just the water pump that had failed as the top hose was very hot, bottom hose was cold and there is no loss of coolant. No milky deposit in oil cap or coolant. Engine not smoking, apart from a brief puff on start up when cold, which it has done as far as I can remember.
I was dismissing the original thermostat as the vehicle never ran very hot and I had installed the Rover 75 thermostat mod to the radiator top hose about 5yrs ago.
I had been running Torque via OBD2 just to keep an eye on things and the engine would reach about 92 deg before the engine temperature dropped when the Rover 75 mod thermostat kicked in (thermostat is rated at 72 deg)
Now that it is overheating, I have since removed the Rover 75 Mod thermostat and it tested ok.
I can flush through the radiator top to bottom as well as flush from the coolant bottle to the bottom radiator hose (disconnected) I can also observe water from the bottom of the Radiator i.e. flushing in both directions.
I have briefly started the engine with the bottom hose disconnected, and observed coolant being expelled from the bottom of the radiator with the hose disconnected. I assume this is because it is not now pressurised...
I have owned the Freelander for 9yrs, it idles about 75 deg for ever more but drive it hard I can get it to nearly 100 deg. before I chicken out and switch it off to cool down. I can drive a good 5 miles at 50 MPH and it may reach +90deg depending on my driving style. Normally it would take a lot longer to reach this temperature.
So, my questions are…
1.Did fitting the Rover 75 mod thermostat cause the Cylinder Head to fail?
2.Since my original thermostat was stuck somewhere in the middle i.e. not fully closing. Is it possible that it has now stuck fully closed or is it just down to a blocked channel within the engine block? I have tried an engine flush.
As the vehicle has 152k and I had just spent £1k on it last month, it’s not financially viable to repair as there are a few other issues that need attention before the MoT runs out in Sept.
Appreciate any thoughts in advance on this.
