110 body off?

currymunster · Jul 12, 2020

mick 1986 said:
That’s scrap. I replaced mine that was in a MUCH better condition. You can’t weld to rust, so you will end up replacing more than you save. Instead of wasting money on ****e like central locking and electric windows, spend it on bits that actually make the vehicle safe, eg the chassis. Buzz weld can say what they want about “converting rust and stopping it” but if it was real and actually done what it says on the tin, imagine the money they would make. Timeless issue of rust, cured by magic paint.

I can assure you that the safety is more important than the crappy ****e stuff as you put it... Lol
I actually thought it was in better condition that that until I got under it this morning.
I just can't afford a shiny new Richards one but wish I could.
I need to sort something though otherwise its going to sit there another 7 years
Maybe try and get a second hand one...

mick 1986 · Jul 12, 2020

currymunster said:
I can assure you that the safety is more important than the crappy ****e stuff as you put it... Lol
I actually thought it was in better condition that that until I got under it this morning.
I just can't afford a shiny new Richards one but wish I could.
I need to sort something though otherwise its going to sit there another 7 years
Maybe try and get a second hand one...

You said you can’t afford a new chassis, but you can afford central locking and electric windows? How much is all of that, being realistic? £400-500?

Look at a Marsland chassis, I found it was cheaper than Richards, and it’s a genuine GKN.

currymunster · Jul 12, 2020

mick 1986 said:
You said you can’t afford a new chassis, but you can afford central locking and electric windows? How much is all of that, being realistic? £400-500?

Look at a Marsland chassis, I found it was cheaper than Richards, and it’s a genuine GKN.

Is not quite so black and white as that.
If I was to repair my chassis (which I thought I could till this morning) it would have cost me 600 maybe with the chassis panels and paint. And being done over a period time I could budget little bits every so often. However I just can't afford 3k in 1 hit.
I did say at the bottom of the post that it was wishful thinking. A man can dream can't he... Surely.
At the end of the day if I can get it fixed without the central locking and electric windows t
and stuff then is be happy as it's on the road.
I have looked at marsland and still a fair whack.
There is one from Ireland which is cheaper but still more than I can afford.

mick 1986 · Jul 12, 2020

currymunster said:
Is not quite so black and white as that.
If I was to repair my chassis (which I thought I could fill this morning) it would have cost me 600 maybe with the chassis panels and paint. And being done over a period time I could budget little bits every so often. However I just can't afford 3k in 1 hit.
I did say at the bottom of the post that it was wishful thinking. A man can dream can't he... Surely.
At the end of the day if I can get it fixed without the central locking and electric windows t
and stuff then is be happy as it's on the road.
I have looked at marsland and still a fair whack.
There is one from Ireland which is cheaper but still more than I can afford.

Sheilder Chassis, in Ireland. Search the forum, they are a waste of time. I had to get the bank involved to get my money back after 6 weeks. I think they may have stopped doing them now, too many unhappy customers.

Yes dream away, but scrap that chassis first. Your wasting your time, and money. If you were closer, I would have offered you my old chassis, without the dumb iron obviously. Using a different second hand chassis is can of worms anyway.

Retroanaconda · Jul 12, 2020

Just about everything steel is rotten there, so realistically you are looking at new chassis, doors, and body cappings. Plus either new bulkhead or significant repairs. Not to mention the plethora of other stuff that will need replacement, likely new brakes, pipes, fuel lines, tank etc.

I’m sorry to say I wouldn’t expect to get much change out of £7-8k to rebuild it. That’s without a paint job. The good thing is it would easily be worth that much once it was done, if you consider it currently ‘paid for’ which after that long I presume you would.

mick 1986 · Jul 12, 2020

Retroanaconda said:
Just about everything steel is rotten there, so realistically you are looking at new chassis, doors, and body cappings. Plus either new bulkhead or significant repairs. Not to mention the plethora of other stuff that will need replacement, likely new brakes, pipes, fuel lines, tank etc.

I’m sorry to say I wouldn’t expect to get much change out of £7-8k to rebuild it. That’s without a paint job. The good thing is it would easily be worth that much once it was done, if you consider it currently ‘paid for’ which after that long I presume you would.

My rebuild was around £10K, but that was replacing everything that was worn, including the chassis. I ended up keeping the old doors and just painting it myself. My personal opinion is that’s good for almost nothing, maybe it’s ID, and not something I would consider rebuilding.

Turboman · Jul 12, 2020

currymunster said:
It wasn't to bad. I had just spent the previous summer doing a lot of welding on it. I put a HD 6mm rear crossmember on made by pressbrake.
And welded the bottoms of the chassis.
All the rust is due to it being stood with no washing on for 7 year. (I checked, the accident was July 2013!)
The doors are really bad though.
I can't Believe the chassis are now over 3k to buy. Back when i had this accident they were £1500 for a richards.
I'm looking to do it next year I think as I promised my wife I would get the bathroom gutted and redone.

Having looked at the pics, I have to agree with the previous posts.

That is pretty rusty. You haven't shown the critical areas of the chassis, but judging by what you have shown, it will be pretty bad.
A lot of work to repair. And even if you repair or re-chassis, you will need to replace a lot of other stuff, doors, cappings, bulkhead could use attention.
Might be better to cut your losses, and sell the good parts, scrap the rest, and get another vehicle.

Gmacz · Jul 12, 2020

It needs a chassis, the rest can be done by the guy himself.
If you take a grinder to the chassis number, you have a bare chassis ready to be transplanted.
Nothing wrong with that, same as new galvanised ie no identity.
Get a trailer, travel and get the one offered.
Get a deal going.
Otherwise, I would sell as is.
Someone with a chassis would go for this.

currymunster · Jul 12, 2020

mick 1986 said:
Sheilder Chassis, in Ireland. Search the forum, they are a waste of time. I had to get the bank involved to get my money back after 6 weeks. I think they may have stopped doing them now, too many unhappy customers.

Yes dream away, but scrap that chassis first. Your wasting your time, and money. If you were closer, I would have offered you my old chassis, without the dumb iron obviously. Using a different second hand chassis is can of worms anyway.

Thanks for the offer... Where are you roughly anyway?

mick 1986 · Jul 12, 2020

Gmacz said:
It needs a chassis, the rest can be done by the guy himself.
If you take a grinder to the chassis number, you have a bare chassis ready to be transplanted.
Nothing wrong with that, same as new galvanised ie no identity.
Get a trailer, travel and get the one offered.
Get a deal going.
Otherwise, I would sell as is.
Someone with a chassis would go for this.

My galvanised chassis has my chassis number on it, from the manufacturer. It’s as if I had the original chassis galvanised, apart from it’s a newest spec GKN, as apposed to “original” design.

mick 1986 · Jul 12, 2020

currymunster said:
Thanks for the offer... Where are you roughly anyway?

No problem. I’m based in County Durham.

currymunster · Jul 12, 2020

mick 1986 said:
No problem. I’m based in County Durham.

Wow, that is a distance.
I did drive up to James Martin in Lincolnshire Where I helped him do my gearbox.
What you after for it and what sort of condition is it in? Not that, that is an easy question to answer.

mick 1986 · Jul 13, 2020

currymunster said:
Wow, that is a distance.
I did drive up to James Martin in Lincolnshire Where I helped him do my gearbox.
What you after for it and what sort of condition is it in? Not that, that is an easy question to answer.

It’s in much better condition than that one you have. It will need new dumb irons, or at least a couple of plates making up for them, but it doesn’t have any other holes in it. I will get some photos of it, hopefully today, but it may not be until Wednesday as the chassis isn’t stored at my house. If you think it’s worth a go, and better than what you have, then you can make me an offer.

currymunster · Jul 13, 2020

mick 1986 said:
It’s in much better condition than that one you have. It will need new dumb irons, or at least a couple of plates making up for them, but it doesn’t have any other holes in it. I will get some photos of it, hopefully today, but it may not be until Wednesday as the chassis isn’t stored at my house. If you think it’s worth a go, and better than what you have, then you can make me an offer.

Hey, thanks for your reply. I suppose I'd better ask what year it is? Also check is a 110 CSW for a 300tdi.
I'm pretty sure you wouldn't be offering if it wasn't but just to make sure there is no crossed communique.
It sounds like it needs the dumb irons doing and then a good rub down and repaint? Has it had any patches welded before?
I have really no idea what it's worth or how much you want for it? Do you want it gone or in no hurry?
Sorry for all the questions... Lol

mick 1986 · Jul 13, 2020

currymunster said:
Hey, thanks for your reply. I suppose I'd better ask what year it is? Also check is a 110 CSW for a 300tdi.
I'm pretty sure you wouldn't be offering if it wasn't but just to make sure there is no crossed communique.
It sounds like it needs the dumb irons doing and then a good rub down and repaint? Has it had any patches welded before?
I have really no idea what it's worth or how much you want for it? Do you want it gone or in no hurry?
Sorry for all the questions... Lol

It’s a 1992 200tdi 110 CSW. I think the gearbox mounts may be different, but the location is the same.

The dumb irons will need doing, but other than that, I don’t think it’s had anything other than a rear crossmember (that was done before I bought it).

I replaced it because I didn’t want to go welding on a pair of dumb irons, then blast and paint the chassis, to be welding it up for MOT in 2-3-4 years time. That and I had almost £3K saved up for all new doors and fittings, so bought the chassis instead.

Edit: missed a few bits. I don’t know how much I want for it to be honest, as I don’t really know what it’s worth. As for wanting rid, not really, it’s been stood in the yard under a tarp for the last 18-19 months. I was going to turn it into a trailer to be honest.

currymunster · Jul 13, 2020

mick 1986 said:
It’s a 1992 200tdi 110 CSW. I think the gearbox mounts may be different, but the location is the same.

The dumb irons will need doing, but other than that, I don’t think it’s had anything other than a rear crossmember (that was done before I bought it).

I replaced it because I didn’t want to go welding on a pair of dumb irons, then blast and paint the chassis, to be welding it up for MOT in 2-3-4 years time. That and I had almost £3K saved up for all new doors and fittings, so bought the chassis instead.

Edit: missed a few bits. I don’t know how much I want for it to be honest, as I don’t really know what it’s worth. As for wanting rid, not really, it’s been stood in the yard under a tarp for the last 18-19 months. I was going to turn it into a trailer to be honest.

I know the engine mounts will need to be changed with new ones welded in, but do you or anyone else know if the 300tdi gearbox cross member will just bolt in to a 200 chassis?
Also, is the rear Crossmember the same with regards the fuel tank for a 300?

mick 1986 · Jul 13, 2020

currymunster said:
I know the engine mounts will need to be changed with new ones welded in, but do you or anyone else know if the 300tdi gearbox cross member will just bolt in to a 200 chassis?
Also, is the rear Crossmember the same with regards the fuel tank for a 300?

Yes the crossmember just bolts in, you can have the 200tdi crossmember with the chassis. It gives you the option to make one work.

The 200tdi uses a metal tank, mounted just in front of the rear crossmember. If the 300 is the same, then all’s good.

@jamesmartin should be able to help answer some of your questions in a bit more detail.

jamesmartin · Jul 13, 2020

as above plus tank fixings the same ,

currymunster · Jul 13, 2020

Right, so it's the engine mounts and anti roll bar mounts?
Does anyone have a clue what it's worth. I really don't...........

mick 1986 · Jul 14, 2020

currymunster said:
Right, so it's the engine mounts and anti roll bar mounts?
Does anyone have a clue what it's worth. I really don't...........

Anti roll bar mounts? I thought only the Puma had different mounts?

How much would you be willing to pay, assuming you have to spend a day travelling to collect? I have a load of bits from my rebuild that I didn’t reuse, your welcome to them if you collect too. Not sure exactly what is there, but cappings and a seatbox atleast.

110 body off?

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