Brake adjustment

So after removing and replacing the pads I trimmed down ( doh) I am back to this situation.

All pipes have been replaced, all cylinders. Pads springs and drums. Wheel adjusters are on the lowest setting.

System was bled + new fluid.

Pedal seemed very hard/very little travel. Was binding somewhere as I couldn't push vehicle in neutral

Today I adjusted the master cylinder rod by twisting it, I can now push it in a tiny bit ( this is freeplay correct)?

Pedal now is preety weak, no binding though. What now guys?

I also adjusted the snail cams one click off any binding BEFORE I adjusted the master cylinder today

They need bedding in and whilst bedding in you will need to adjust the rod again to get them right as the pedal will come up and probably go hard so if the brakes are already backed off fully the rod will need backing off to, if you are still having trouble after bedding in and can't get away from the problem it mite just be that the linings on the shoes are to long, I had a set of mintex shoes that had this problem the Haynes book said they should be 81/2" long and the linings on the shoes was between 81/2"-9" long so replaced them with BP ones and they cured the problem.

Ssurely they shouldn't be so tight to the drum that I can't even push the vehicle in neutral though right? Don't get me wrong the brakes work well when they are like this

Are the leading edges of the brake shoe linings chamfered ?
Does your pedal sink right to floor?
Are they all 10" setup ie SWB model ifso have you fitted the springs correctly.

Set pedal height
Set m/cy freeplay
Adjust shoes

Get wheels to trun freely. then do some VERY hard stops, then adjust again. Be prepared to do one more adjusmtent after a few days, then they should stay set for ages. changed my shoes 3 weeks ago and the brake adjuster spanner is on the dash still just in case.

Cant remember if the shoes are chamfered. 100% springs are fitted correctly. Annoyingly my jack is at work so i will have to continue adjusting the brakes next weekend. Is there a standard limit where the pedal should be located on the master cylinder rod ?

Also thank you all very much for the replies. Fingers crossed this adjustment is the last one needed. Ive had a ****storm with these brakes from the start. After this is done i just need to fit seats and adjust the handbrake and my land rover should be road worthy at long last

Hi,

i have had a few problems with my uprated brakes,i fitted a servo system which i bought complete 2nd hand,(complete pedal,servo,m/cylinder from ebay) where previously there was none,after lots of frustration and work i finally got it working well,
i did all the chamfering,springs etc but still had stiff, jamming on brakes,frankly i was getting seriously peeded off with it,
i then i discovered that the clovis pin at the servo and pedal axis/connection was wrong,i sourced a good 2nd hand one and the problem disappeared,i had tried the vehicle up on blocks,the shoes & drums were checked,disassembled,swapped between wheels,bled and bled but that made no real difference,
After i replaced the pin the servo was found to be weak so i changed for a new one as planned
I can now stop on a sixpence and lock up in a straight line,
I hope that you get yours sorted,
All the best,
Ryn

I recenlty changed my servo from the series to a defender one, that pin caught me out. Parts list 7/16 but pin is 10mm.

Sorry to hear but at least you got it sorted mate !