4.6 onto a d1 automatic?

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RallyHippo

Member
Posts
92
Location
Selby, North Yorks
Is it possible? I’m kind of hoping Rover being Rover the bellhousing is the same across them all so a D1 v8 auto box would fit to a 4.6 v8 from a p38 RR.
Going into a defender project want to keep it all LR st-and are parts as far as possible.
 
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Well... it’s like this. Yes anything is possible. Not sure of your X1 reference?
Been doing my own research on this.
From info I have gathered, some may, or may not be right.

1. 4.6 needs the big torque converter. So needs the bigger bellhousing.
2. You will need the ZF4 HP 24 box to hold up (unless you are really light on the go pedal) But would probably still need the big TC because the box needs the bigger pump.
3. The LT230 will not go directly on the HP24.(It can with mods) Will it hold up? ATB?
4. The Position needs to be right, engine mounts
5. Exhaust manifolds is a bit of a work around but can be done.
6. Then the axles are they up to it? 4pin diffs needed? No pegged standard with ATBs is my thoughts
7. Electrickery :D:D Well here we go down the real rabbit hole. Do you run standard Ecu with Efi with Becm? Still working on this bit. Lots of ways around it but they all include lots of money, megasquirt with compushift. Or Omex as this will work with the gearbox management (not sure yet if BECM needed)
8. You change it to carb engine? Doing away with the efi.
9. You try to convert to distributor front end (of engine) lots of work?
10. Auto pedal box and shifter.(easy sorted)
11. Cooling. Props. Brakes. Trans tunnel panels. Fuel pump.Etc etc.
12. Oil filter needs remote fitting. But many options available.

The list can really go on with loads of the little bits, but I won’t go Into all the little bits I have been going through.
There is also some other very expensive options available. Am sure others will have other thoughts to correct or confirm my thoughts, I am still willing to learn new things as I do everyday:)
Are you going to take this on yourself or get it done for you? Point 7 in my mind is the hardest to get head around.

Bottom line is YES. Do it you know it makes sense :D:):):)

Hope to start early next year:D:eek:

J
 
The X1 ref is down to my fat fingers on the iPhone Should be D1.. im wanting to go “back to basics” as far as possible..
Building myself as I’ve not had a true project for myself for a while..
My plan was to eliminate as much electric trickery as possible Holley carb, distributor and twin fuel pumps.. hence the want of wanting to use the D1 box for no electrical inputs either just good old cables..
The idea is to be a soft top for summer use, not an off road toy purely a nice 90 to rumble around the country lanes and maybe the odd trip away with the caravan in tow (sod the mpg)
I would buy a sports car but I live in the country and have a 1/2 mile Private gravel drive which anything lower than a suv has to slowly traverse. not necessarily want it to be super quick just like it to bark and rumble with that v8 gruffness and be brisk enough to have fun with..
I also happen to have a p38 4.6 engine sat in a container..
 
The 4.6 ecu can be made to run “standalone” then you could keep the efi and electronic ignition, imho would be the better route than trying to go backwards and fit carb & distributor.

Doing what you are thinking with the gearbox I really don’t know how well it would standup. I do know the 24 internals can be put in the 22 but still think you would need the larger TC which needs the larger pump from the 24 box. Running the 22 as std I think the 4.6 would tear it up fairly quick especially if you plan some towing too.

why not just use the whole of the D1 setup 3.9/4.0??

J
 
Might be the best course of action.
May still have to get ecu sorted to separate it from the alarm, but I really don’t know the D1.
A friend I know has the 3.9 and it’s goes well enough for him in his 90.

Good luck and start a thread when you do pls:)

J
 
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