L322 TDV8 3.6 EGR Valve Replacement.

Beware this is a very image post, quite a few pictures and procedure to replace both EGR valves on the TDV8. I've also replaced a few inlet hoses and a couple of O-rings, I think this is worthwhile when you already have to release these for access to the EGRs

There is no ****ing breathing room available, thanls LR you will lose nuts/bolts/tools downwards, so removing the under tray first will be a good idea I have lost a 10mm socket and a femex ratchet and a 13mm r ring spanner, which was caught on the under tray thank christ. There is also a metric shyte tonne of electrical connectors to release and re connect

To complete the following job you need these parts:
EGR Valve Left Hand 3.6l V8 L322 Range Rover + Sport
EGR Valve Right Hand 3.6l V8 L322 Range Rover + Sport
EGR Tube>EGR Gasket 3.6 V8 - L322 Range Rover + Sport
EGR Valve>Tube Gasket 3.6 Dsl
LR003831, EGR Valve Gasket 3.6l V8 Diesel

Part numbers escape me at the moment
not really needed parts:
Duct - Air Inlet Manifold 3.6l V8 Lion Diesel - Range Rover Sport + L322, Intake Manifold Air Duct Hose - 3.6l V8 Diesel - Range Rover L322 + Sport
Rad Hose Upper + Clips LH 3.6 G-CAT
Rad Hose Upper + Clips RH 3.6 G-CAT
O Ring EGR Valve Tube 3.6L DSL G-CAT

Tools used:
13 mm ring spanner
10 mm ring spanner and sockets
8 mm ring spanner and sockets
Torx 30
1/4 extensions of different lengths
1/4" universal joint
1/4" ratchet handle
3/8" extension
3/8" ratchet handle
3/8 Teng Torque wrench
Hose clamp
Pliers
A plastic pry tool for connector studs and to loosen stuck hoses.
A couple of tie clips for tie up the coolant pipes out of the way.


First off open the bonnet and put it into service mode aka straight up, remove the gas struts and once at 90 degrees lock the latches in place.

Open the hood in service mode, open the small spring clips on the dampers with a small, thin flat screw driver.



Remove the battery negative cable and put it aside


Lift off the hood seal.




also the A/C pipes

Then the plenum chamber is loose and can be pulled straight out.



You see the twin cooland pipes to release next.



With two nuts and one bolt you can lift and bend the pipes up and I tied them up with a strips to be out of the way.



Disconnect and release the wiring to EGR valves. Both sides.

EGR connector to be opened and released.

Follow the engine harness and remove where its tied down.

Theres alot of wiring and a big bracket in the centre.

Follow the branches of the wiring and release all clips and connectors.

A plastic trim removal pry tool is good help releasing the tie downs.
The CPS in the back of the engine is in a very tight spot. Let it take it's time to figure out how to release them all.



The CPS connector released bu putting a flat screwdriver behind the hatch and giving it a pull.
WIth all wires and connectors loose you can undo the engine cover mounting bracket.



Then you can access and release the vacuum hoses.


Just give them a good pull and the vacuum hoses will release.

On the outer side of each head there is a protective plate, held on with some hard to reach nuts.

This is with the metal plate off.

One of the plates removed.

With the metal plates off you can reach the injector connetors, be careful with these.

Which all has to come off to be able to release the harness.

Its very tight on the left side and on the right tbh even hard to see the small nuts deep down in there with all the crap in the way.

One of the top nuts removed and another down in the corner just visible.

Another just about visible deep down, i actually used 3 extensions and my 3/8's torque wrench to remove this, the only 3/8 bit i own lol

Another bolt/nut.

Be careful they will all come off, and with a good pull you get the protective plates off.

Follow the wiring back and release all tie downs.

there was quite some **** in here, I put some protective cloth in the air openings and cleaned it up with compressed air. Thought this was the time, before opening any of the manifold or exhaust pipes.

Next I unscrewed the EGR outlet tubes, 4 torx bolts.

Loosen the clips of the rear manifold hoses, 4 clips.

Repositioned the hoses towards the manifold.



Then i Unscrewed and released the hoses to the air cooler as well as the MAP connectors.



Release the clips on the 90 degree hoses.



Unscrew the 6 bolts fastening the manifold.



The manifold should now be loose and ready to be lifted off.



There are 2 extra connectors/clips which are connected to throttle body and can be released when it's lifted up a little bit.



next the intake manifold can be lifted off and put aside.



I'm almost half way through and finally you can see the EGR valves.

Time for a full fat coke and copious amounts of Whiskey and i'll be back at it, this is quite a long winded affair bear with i'll have a "part 2" done..

Apologies, the pics have ended up in the middle, damn IPAD.

@blue beasty would you be able to move this to the tech section please.

Part 2 incoming..

Remove the fuel rail support bracket. Two bolts on each of the bracket.

lift it off.



Release the exhaust pipe two bolts, this is the upperside.



And socket on the lower, can be seen


Release the 4 bolts holdning the EGR assembly. Two of them seen festering here.


Now the assembly is loose, except for the coolant hoses.


The Clamps on both water pipes to the exhaust cooler loosen the hose clips.



Pulling off the hoses. I did one at the time, two clamps is enough and gives a a small loss of water.



EGR assembly, release the exhaust cooler with torx bolts.



Old and new EGR valve, shown.


New gasket on the EGR inlet pipe of course.


EGR with new gasket in the cooler, both ends and back for reassembly. 10 Nm on the bolts.


screwing it back down


And put the fuel rail bracket back in place. This should be done up to 25 Nm.

Both EGR's replaced.


With the EGR replaced I also replenished both air cooler hoses, both old and new in this pic.


And then turned to the inlet manifold and replaced the four short air hoses.



In there you see a O-ring, remove this.

Old O-ring was hard and full of crap


Place a new O-ring on the EGR outlet pipe.

Reassembly and the fitting of the new gasket on the EGR valve side.

Double check the engine side and see all brakets and screws are back and lift the pipes and harness aside to make clear for putting bach the inlet manifold.

The Inlet manifold ready to go back on at this point



put it back and tighten up all the bolts.


Don't forget the throttle connectors.


Also fit all the remaining bolts.


Continue with the harness, connectors and harness brackets.



Don't forget the vacuum pipes.


And the engine cover bracket.


Reposition and tighten the inlet hoses.


There are six of them.


Including the front cooler one's. The genuine LR one's have all new hose clips already correctly positioned on them.


Put back all ties.


It's loads of wires and cables, so taking pictures will help getting it all back in the same positions, which goes over and under each other.


Crank position is still down there, easier to connect first and then press in the tie downs.

Continue with the injector and EGR connectors.


These fuel pipes don't have to be opened, just pressed carefully at the side.

Getting the side metal shields back in place and getting the nuts on there, be careful not lose any, I put a small drop of copper grease on the socket to hold it in the socket there while getting it onto the stud.


It's almost possible to get them all back, bit it's very tight.


And a good maglite torch helps because it is dark there as well, you see two top nuts and the socket for a third deep down.

Some brackets and hose fasteners to go back as well.

With all connectors and the harness back on, it's time for the coolant hoses to go back down.

And on the coolant hoses there is another cable fastened down.


The CPS cable goes here.

All the nuts for the shields are now back.

Remove the cloth from the plenum chamber openings afterhand.


Put the plenum chamber back on

Tigheten it back with A/C bracket and install the rubber hood seal.


Put the engine cover back on re - connect the battery cable. and start her up, check for leaks..


Car info.

White 2009 "59" l322 TDV8

110k miles.


Egr's on these TDV8s tend to last around 100k regardless of maintenance, this job altogther was £850 parts included, very labour intensive,


H

Great job fella, was thinking of tackling this next but will give it a miss lol

What location is the crank sensor?

Cheers