1996 p38 EAS

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Which diag are you using?
I'm using a borrowed hawkeye pro and using the pc eas suite.
After reading your previous comments, I'm starting to wonder if I'm chasing EAS ghosts that aren't there.
I'm not with the vehicle at the moment.
Eas suite shows no fault codes. It will energise the various valves just not the pump.
The hawkeye shows communication fault with centre console (though everything appears to work) and airbag fault.
Thanks for your help :)
 
I've switched over a whole known working eas pump unit complete with valves and driver. So that would eliminate thermal switch?

Depends if the replacement also has thermal switch problems. I've had several pumps stop working this way. Test is easy peazy, because all the thermal cutout does is tell the ECU about the overheat. Bridging the pump relay bypasses the cutout operation so doesn't prove it.

As already suggested read Wammers' guide in the technical archive. . . . . . It says "Remove compressor plug from socket. Test continuity between Orange wire and Black wire. If continuity switch is ok. If none switch is duff"
 
I'm using a borrowed hawkeye pro and using the pc eas suite.
After reading your previous comments, I'm starting to wonder if I'm chasing EAS ghosts that aren't there.
I'm not with the vehicle at the moment.
Eas suite shows no fault codes. It will energise the various valves just not the pump.
The hawkeye shows communication fault with centre console (though everything appears to work) and airbag fault.
Thanks for your help :)
Check the OBD socket for corrosion.

With the Slow 35 mph fault showing there will be a hard fault present. If you are using the RSW EAS software, do you get "Good Idle"?
The RSW software can do some strange things with bad connections, at the very least if it has good communication it should give "Vehicle has moved" when you read the faults.
If you are using the RSW EAS software, what operating system is on your laptop and are you using a USB to seial adaptor?
 
Depends if the replacement also has thermal switch problems. I've had several pumps stop working this way. Test is easy peazy, because all the thermal cutout does is tell the ECU about the overheat. Bridging the pump relay bypasses the cutout operation so doesn't prove it.

As already suggested read Wammers' guide in the technical archive. . . . . . It says "Remove compressor plug from socket. Test continuity between Orange wire and Black wire. If continuity switch is ok. If none switch is duff"
I think this has gone beyond the thermal trip stage, there is a hard fault which will stop the compressor running.
 
Check the OBD socket for corrosion.

With the Slow 35 mph fault showing there will be a hard fault present. If you are using the RSW EAS software, do you get "Good Idle"?

I'm getting "good idle" eas suite works fine on my 98 p38
The RSW software can do some strange things with bad connections, at the very least if it has good communication it should give "Vehicle has moved" when you read the faults.
If you are using the RSW EAS software, what operating system is on your laptop and are you using a USB to seial adaptor?
 
I'm getting "good idle". Eas suite works fine on my other p38
If you unplug the EAS ECU, you can apply 12 volts to pin 8 of the connector on the cable (C0867), that should energise the relay and operate the compressor. That will prove the circuit from the EAS ECU to the compressor.
If the circuit is OK, then it's back to why there is a hard fault that you cannot see with diagnostics.
 
If you unplug the EAS ECU, you can apply 12 volts to pin 8 of the connector on the cable (C0867), that should energise the relay and operate the compressor. That will prove the circuit from the EAS ECU to the compressor.
If the circuit is OK, then it's back to why there is a hard fault that you cannot see with diagnostics.
My apologies. Still new to the forum lark! I can confirm good continuity between pin 8 and the relay winding, relay itself and return.
So I guess I need to start hunting elsewhere. :(
 
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