P38A Compression Test Results.

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Not likely, if they drop one it pukes it's guts out after every run, and you hear the "clack clack" noise associated with it..

knowing that the compression shot up when oil was added to the bores means rings/bores are worn..

That's a relief. Tried making a pressure testing adapter out of an old spark plug and an old valve from a bike inner tube last night. Utter failure. Drilling through a spark-plug is hard as hell!
 
I bought it 9 years ago with 67k on the clock. Quite a bit of service history came with it. I think it was laid up for a few years before I bought it because there's a hole in the service record. I'm the 3rd owner from new
If the engine is on it's way out, I think I'd like to try and replace it/repair it rather than throw in the towel.

There are similarities in the ownership of my '87 classic. I bought it nearly 12 years ago, I am the third owner, the car is just coming up to 60K & there was a gap of a couple of years in the service record. I recall one year where the car only clocked up 14 miles in a year, the MOT being conducted 7 miles from the owner's address :cool:
Good to hear that you want to repair the V8, I wish you well with the task.
 
Number 1 had a wet sooty plug when I ffirst took them out to have a look some days ago.

This afternoon whilst putting it back together a bit and changing the plugs, I noticed the connector in
Number 1 HT lead was pushed well back inside the boot although the plug was no longer sooty.


I've corrected that now. Hopefully that was causing the misfire.!!

Plug leads are a service item. Are these the ones that were on it when you bought the car?
Fit a good quality set not ebay cheapies. I've never felt the need to use magnecor type.
 
Plug leads are a service item. Are these the ones that were on it when you bought the car?
Fit a good quality set not ebay cheapies. I've never felt the need to use magnecor type.
Good god no! I changed them when I got it! They've been changed again last year, just Lucas ones, not Magnacor, but I do change them at the service interval.
 
Time to draw a line under this thread I think.

I've put it all back together. New spark plugs, new manifold gaskets, new CATS (see this thread) new studs for the manifold flanges, and new 3/8 bolts for the manifold to cylinder head joint.

It's all running much much better. No chuffing, no misfiring, it's smoother and quieter than it's been for a while. I've done a trace with the Nanocom, and it all appears to be running and fuelling as it should.

What the problem was I don't know, but my original LR CATS look to be in pretty good shape, and none of the spark plugs was loose when I changed them, so I only assume it was a leak from between the head and the exhaust manifold on the left hand side. That's where the chuff was loudest.

I'll just have to live with the low compression for the time being, and keep my eye out for a used Turner engine to replace mine with...

The only thing is it's just failed to restart after the test run. I opened the bonnet and let it cool, and it started up first time. It's only ever done that once before, and of course I've tried hot starting it a few times more, and it start up just fine! Could this be low compression related do you think?
 
Time to draw a line under this thread I think.

I've put it all back together. New spark plugs, new manifold gaskets, new CATS (see this thread) new studs for the manifold flanges, and new 3/8 bolts for the manifold to cylinder head joint.

It's all running much much better. No chuffing, no misfiring, it's smoother and quieter than it's been for a while. I've done a trace with the Nanocom, and it all appears to be running and fuelling as it should.

What the problem was I don't know, but my original LR CATS look to be in pretty good shape, and none of the spark plugs was loose when I changed them, so I only assume it was a leak from between the head and the exhaust manifold on the left hand side. That's where the chuff was loudest.

I'll just have to live with the low compression for the time being, and keep my eye out for a used Turner engine to replace mine with...

The only thing is it's just failed to restart after the test run. I opened the bonnet and let it cool, and it started up first time. It's only ever done that once before, and of course I've tried hot starting it a few times more, and it start up just fine! Could this be low compression related do you think?

How old is the Crank position sensor?
 
That's what it feels like to me @Datatek

It's due a new petrol filter, but I need to do that fuel pump flow rate test too.

How do you stop fuel vaporisation? The fuel temp sensor seems to be working perfectly well according to the Nanocom.
 
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