Series 3 Restoration 85% there. Brake issues

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hey guys, hope you are all well. Progress on my land rover has come on massive amounts the last few weeks. All rust. Proofing, welding, priming and painting done on the chassis. Runs sweet ass a nut minus the oil drip. I have spent the last 3 days over hauling the brake system, new pads, drums, pistons springs, new copper lines etc, new snail adjusters. Now when i jack the vehicle up the wheels will spin maybe a full rotation and a half, the cam adjusters are as low as they can go. If i adjust them anymore the wheels just bind up. Springs set up correctly and pads are square. I have bled the system and the brakes are weak. I have to almost pump twice for any solid pressure to appear. Any ideas on what to do next ? Verrryy frustrating
 

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If your wheels spin a full rotation then they should spin 10 rotations!
If the shoes are all 'just catching' and the pedal goes to the floor, then either there is still air in somewhere or the master cylinder needs looking at
 
Obviously i mean turning by hand. Yeah i took the cap off and inspected the master cylinder. No leaks evident though, so i guess the next step is to drain the system, install a new master cylinder and rebleed ? Thanks for the reply also
 
No leaks is a good start, but it's always worth taking the cylinder off and having a look, it might well just need new seals, they don't last forever, especially if the fluid isn't changed regularly
 
Nice work on chassis
What size and type brakes are on front and back
Are springs on correct , some times the spring pulls shoe in when it shouldn’t and gives the 2 pumps syndrome
Another tip is to chamfer the shoe edges , stops the wheel locking up and skidding
 
Hi steve thanks i would never do chassis work again unless the whole vehicle was stripped. Dirty old work. As every bolt you cant see or get too, is rounded and rusted solid. yeah the springs are on the back of the shoes and the longer one has the long end of the spring attached to where the snail adjuster makes contact and the other end on the backplate lug. although i did notice when i had the drum off i pumped the brakes only one of shoes moved unless pressed down on the one moving. They are 10 inch ones for a series 3. I have it exactly setup like this image.
 

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Is the push rod adjusted in th master cylinder
Di you bleed with the snail adjustment backed right off, this allows pistons to retract and helps get more air out
Have you tried clamping all the flexis to see where problem is and then releasing one by one
Springs looks ok
 
I have not tried pushrod yet. Going to fit new master cylinder once its arrived, drain and refill system. If that doesnt help i will adjust pushrod then failing that try clamping the flexis , is the idea with clamping the flexis to see if there is a particular drum causing the lack of pressure, for example if three drums were working perfectly with a solid feel, if there was a drum which wasnt releasing for example that would cause a lack of even pressure within the hydraulic system ?
 
No need to drain and refill, it’s new brake fluid
Yes if you clamp all 3 flexis and have soft pedal it’s master cylinder
If hard , try releasing rear if soft problem at back , if hard release a front one and see if pedal soft , etc
Just checked above post , no new wheel cylinders yet ?
 
Yeah i replaced all the drum cylinders too, except one as i ****ed the thread up on the new one. Swearing moment. Serviced the old one and its fine. Like i say i will give these new methods you've spoken about a try and see what happens.
 
Obviously i mean turning by hand. Yeah i took the cap off and inspected the master cylinder. No leaks evident though, so i guess the next step is to drain the system, install a new master cylinder and rebleed ? Thanks for the reply also

Any discolouration to the fluid ?

Black or dark tinge ?
 
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