At Last The Big TD5 job

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Alistair Davidson said:
Ok thanks for all that. Just ordered DTI guage. Can always sell it on ebay once im done.
Click to expand...

Alistair Davidson said:
Ok thanks for all that. Just ordered DTI guage. Can always sell it on ebay once im done.
Click to expand...

These days they are not so expensive, if you want you can sell it on, or keep it for other jobs.
When you replace the head follow the tightening sequence carefully, and be sure you have some pins to set up the timing accurately, turn over the engine at least 4 revolutions using the bolt on the end of the crankshaft to be sure all is ok before any attempt to start it.
 
Spigot bush! Did you remove yours? Quite hard to tell if mine is worn at all. was an auto trans... would input shaft still have gone into end of crank?
Looks fairly fiddly to get out without a massive tap.
 
What are opinions on here for using engine assembly grease? Workshop manual says just engine oil. Seems to me as its going to be a while before the rebuild gets used/started up assembly grease would be a better idea.
 
im no engine builder but the assembly grease seems likes a sales thingy to me which prays on the insecurity of the engine builder.
 
Alistair Davidson said:
What are opinions on here for using engine assembly grease? Workshop manual says just engine oil. Seems to me as its going to be a while before the rebuild gets used/started up assembly grease would be a better idea.
Click to expand...
I've never used grease on an engine assembly I would have concern that it may wash into oilways and restrict flow when the engine starts up, probably would not be a huge problem but wouldn't want a risk.
I used assembly oil which is a thick sticky substance I wiped it onto all bearing surfaces.
The cylinder bores were wiped with engine oil and pistons and rings were given a good coating, but if I was not going to start it for several months I would not use synthetic oil because it can absorb moisture and is not a good corrosion protector.
 
Alistair Davidson said:
About to set about removing the crankshaft. Book says slave bolts required to split the bearing shell from the block. Dont have these. Possible without?
Click to expand...
Didn't use any on my strip down, back them all off bit at a time then just lift the bearing caps, they are numbered so not easy to mix up, but be sure to put them back the right way.
A digital camera is a big help on a job like this take loads of snaps, I did mine over a long period and it was handy to look up the photos, but even then I wish I had taken more.
 
raywin said:
Didn't use any on my strip down, back them all off bit at a time then just lift the bearing caps, they are numbered so not easy to mix up, but be sure to put them back the right way.
A digital camera is a big help on a job like this take loads of snaps, I did mine over a long period and it was handy to look up the photos, but even then I wish I had taken more.
Click to expand...
You can never take too many pictures on a rebuild. Engine, full body, gearbox or whatever. If you’re doing it for the first time that is!
 
Ok cranks out. Went fine. had to re use the stiffener plate bolts to help pull the bearing caps off.
Anyone had trouble taking out the squirt jets? Thought it would be a 2 min job...mine are stuck tight in there...kinda started to strip the first bolt so I stopped.
Typical the crank removal turns out no bother then the 5 easy to reach bolts to finish the disassembly ends up being the tricky task
 
Alistair Davidson said:
Ok cranks out. Went fine. had to re use the stiffener plate bolts to help pull the bearing caps off.
Anyone had trouble taking out the squirt jets? Thought it would be a 2 min job...mine are stuck tight in there...kinda started to strip the first bolt so I stopped.
Typical the crank removal turns out no bother then the 5 easy to reach bolts to finish the disassembly ends up being the tricky task
Click to expand...

Take care I think they are fitted with locktite, I have read online that people have sheared them off and it's a pain to repair them, try to test them and see that they are not blocked, if so maybe leave them in, be sure the one which started to strip is ok dont want it to break off when the engine is running.
 
I had the same trouble with the squirt jets, so I just blew them out and left them in place - I taped them over when I honed the bores.
 
I used a flexhone, gave it 3 or 4 passes per cylinder using ATF as lube. I can look in the shed to get the size of it tomorrow - it cost ~ 75 quid though so aint cheap.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

N
TD5 Cranking Not starting - Solved
Replies
18
Views
923
NdG1977
N
landy-lee
R380 Td5 to 300Tdi
Replies
0
Views
229
landy-lee
landy-lee
1
Transfer Box change 1.4 to 1.2
2
Replies
25
Views
852
Brown
Brown
N
Disco td5 auto box cooling pipes
Replies
12
Views
1K
Iwandavies351
Iwandavies351
J
Defender 90 TD5?
Replies
2
Views
457
mpd2378
M
Back
Top