Sump plug leak.

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mick the builder

Well-Known Member
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5,901
Location
Sligo,Wild West of Ireland.
The last time I did an oil change, I know I nipped the sump bolt up too much . You know the feeling when it goes from really tight to movement. Anyway, the oil stains on the floor mean i have to address it. Any suggestions before i start.
 
The last time I did an oil change, I know I nipped the sump bolt up too much . You know the feeling when it goes from really tight to movement. Anyway, the oil stains on the floor mean i have to address it. Any suggestions before i start.

Mine used to drip a few drips when it was hot. I applied PTFE tape to the threads last time I changed the oil. It doesn’t leak now.
 
I replaced the sump plug with a drain plug, basically a valve that you thread a pipe onto to drain the oil, this opens the valve and lets the oil drain out through the pipe into a container. No more gushes of oil down the arm.
 
I replaced the sump plug with a drain plug, basically a valve that you thread a pipe onto to drain the oil, this opens the valve and lets the oil drain out through the pipe into a container. No more gushes of oil down the arm.

Do you have a link?
 
Do you have a link?

Here

They are expensive now. You also need the hose that screws onto the plug. The plug replaces your standard drain plug, and has a protective cap. If buying, check the size of your existing drain plug as there are two sizes available.

Despite being expensive, every time I drain the oil from my Defender I'm grateful for having it.
 
Hopefully. Can you not still buy sumps for it? If so, I doubt they are that expensive. Or take it to a welder and see if they can help?
Theres a temporary fix for core plugs I saw . It's like 2 rubber bushes with a bolt through the middle. You squeeze one bush into the hole and as you tighten the bolt, the rubber expands and squeezes either side of hole.
 
Helicoil or do what I did and weld a 1/2" steel boss in its place then you can fit a ball valve for clean oil changes. Get the boss first then take the sump with the boss
to a competent welder. You can screw in a 1/2" hose tail into the 1/2" ball valve with some garden hose over it and drain easy.
Edit- change all the above 1/2" to 3/8" ,
1/2" is a bit big, I'm fairly sure I used 3/8" thinking about it.
I then used a male/female 90° elbow (3/8") into the sump boss with the ball valve attached to that elbow. The ball valve is then running parallel to the sump and horizontal. I screw a 3/8" plug into the ball valve to keep dirt out of the internals and a back up incase the ball valve decided to fail (unlikely).
At oil change time I remove the plug and screw in the hose tail with the garden hose on and open the ball valve.
 
Helicoil or do what I did and weld a 1/2" steel boss in its place then you can fit a ball valve for clean oil changes. Get the boss first then take the sump with the boss
to a competent welder. You can screw in a 1/2" hose tail into the 1/2" ball valve with some garden hose over it and drain easy.
Edit- change all the above 1/2" to 3/8" ,
1/2" is a bit big, I'm fairly sure I used 3/8" thinking about it.
I then used a male/female 90° elbow (3/8") into the sump boss with the ball valve attached to that elbow. The ball valve is then running parallel to the sump and horizontal. I screw a 3/8" plug into the ball valve to keep dirt out of the internals and a back up incase the ball valve decided to fail (unlikely).
At oil change time I remove the plug and screw in the hose tail with the garden hose on and open the ball valve.
Female thread ?Have you a link for the steel boss?
 
Had this happen on wifey's Pluriel. Took the sump off and got an engineering company to drill it out and tap a bigger hole. Then fitted a bigger plug, made sure I copperslip it every time I have to take it off. Twas cheaper than buying the f off big drill bit and tap. I went shopping for an hour it was done in that time.
Could you not simply do that? Cheaper than a new sump!
 
On my td5 defender I bought a kit from Ebay that contained new plugs of various sizes along with the correct taps and drills to re cut a thread. All worked well and did it in situ.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/252571370222
Something like this.
There what I'm looking at on the tube.
Had this happen on wifey's Pluriel. Took the sump off and got an engineering company to drill it out and tap a bigger hole. Then fitted a bigger plug, made sure I copperslip it every time I have to take it off. Twas cheaper than buying the f off big drill bit and tap. I went shopping for an hour it was done in that time.
Could you not simply do that? Cheaper than a new sump!
I may do that, if I can find a decent firm out here. Thought of just getting a nut welded over the hole then use bolt and copper washer.
 
There what I'm looking at on the tube.

I may do that, if I can find a decent firm out here. Thought of just getting a nut welded over the hole then use bolt and copper washer.
You could do that and that's the same work as using a 3/8" BSP boss except you won't be able to easily fit a drain valve. I can weld, I have a welder and , at the time, access to free BSP fittings so was a no brainer for me.
Cost me nowt.
Sorry I can't do links to a boss but I'll see if I can find one and screen shot it.
Female= internal threads
Male= external threads.
 
This may take me a while:oops:
3/8" BSP socket in steel, drill out the sump so one of these will fit and weld it in or cut it in half and weld it over the old plug hole.
Screenshot_20200319-093547.png
 
This may take me a while:oops:
3/8" BSP socket in steel, drill out the sump so one of these will fit and weld it in or cut it in half and weld it over the old plug hole.View attachment 203252
That's what's I was thinking, been a while since I did plumbing and forgot the names of fittings. So, weld on 3/8 female bsp boss, 3/8- 1/2 male - female ,elbow . Ball valve, 1/2" female end cap?
Did you mig weld it?
 
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