For fcuk sake it's happening again aghhhhhhhhh

Hello again, it's happening again, yes my v8 turns over and won't bloody start again! This is getting me so wound up in can't think straight. I've got no spider unit fitted, I changed my bosch coil and she ran sweet, now the problem is back, I'm sure it's the little green box in the passenger footwell, ando the pop in heard first time, others had the same thing happened to them I've read on other landy forums and here to. I tried the splicing black with orange stripe sounded like a lot clicking and wiring noises then my hazards stayed on aghhhhhh.
How can I sort this once and for all? And no I don't want to get a diesel I would like to drive my v8 without holding my breath and praying to the engine spirit to please start. .
Has anyone removed this little green box of torment and no longer has starting problems?
If so please pm me as I know it's a topic thieving landy scum would like to know, so I would read and delete
Hope all is well with your vehicle's
Many thanks
The crushed bushcrusher

Ok bushcrusher, it turns over but what is missing? is it lacking fuel or is it a spark that make it easier.

As it was ok I’d look at the simple things like good coil top connections, as that is involved with sparks and indirectly the fuel.
Removing the supply fuse to the security ECU (green box) will isolated it and the items it looks after, central locking, alarm and if u still have one an immobiliser also its link to the MFU.
Also removing the ECU you will loose all the above and will no doubt require the modification of the wiring so best of luck with that.

Hi discool, what's your name? Seems so formal using your site name. It is just blowing my mind, if I take the green box out of the equation nothing you Emily is a two tone ground anchor, I've checked the coil connections all are like a sexy German frau ( nice n tight ) that sounded better in my head ! Doh.
I can smell fuel and I checked the pressure in my fuel rail by depresing the valve, and no I didn't move my face quick enough. I now smell like a petrol tanker. It tried to fire once but nothing major happened
So getting in touch with land rover to get eka code see if that makes a difference
Dave

Bushcrusher said:

Hi discool, what's your name? Seems so formal using your site name. It is just blowing my mind, if I take the green box out of the equation nothing you Emily is a two tone ground anchor, I've checked the coil connections all are like a sexy German frau ( nice n tight ) that sounded better in my head ! Doh.
I can smell fuel and I checked the pressure in my fuel rail by depresing the valve, and no I didn't move my face quick enough. I now smell like a petrol tanker. It tried to fire once but nothing major happened
So getting in touch with land rover to get eka code see if that makes a difference
Dave

Click to expand...

Sorry but on open forums I keep to user names, but we know each other’s name fro a PM don’t we, mate.
The starting circuits are pretty simple, following a schematic wiring diagram is important though.

As the engine cranks ok u can forget that part in starting but with 12 at the coil and the dizzy spinning you should get a spark and iffy amplifier won’t give u that, but have a new replacement, the EFI ECU gets it signal from the coil to start the fuel pump and the operation of the eight injectors... you will need a multimeter to check the ECU inputs/outputs. All the info is on the www in a lot more detail that I can remember.

I didn’t know that a faulty idle control valve (stepper motor) but it can, info on that I found on the www so check the electrical connections first, otherwise if it’s a suspect, remove and clean, I remove mine for a look and clean, nothing better to do at the time, it was clean so refitted.

If you can smell petrol then u may have flooded the the plugs at least u know that petrol is getting in. If it is that leave, what’s happening with the ignition.

If you have fuel it suggests everything up to the coil is good because if the ignition amplifier, dizzy pick up or ignition switch was at fault there could be no fuel because the efi ecu takes a "run" signal off the coil.
Have you checked your rotor arm and dizzy cap? Might also be worth making sure you have a good spark off the king lead, then check rotor arm etc.
Having fuel also suggests the fuel pump, fuel pump relay etc is good and that your problem is unlikely to be related to vehicle security because it turns over etc so I would concentrate on the ignition circuit and wiring.

FWIW my 3.9 died at the weekend. It fired and before it settled to idle it just stopped!! I did a full set of ignition checks and couldn't see anything obvious but was thinking it was ignition amplifier although never heard of one just giving up like that. Long story short, a friend popped in so I had another pair of hands and we tracked the issue to a broken wire at the ignition amplifier plug causing an intermittent misfire and this time no fire at all - so maybe check for a busted wire? BTW mine is all up and running again so as ever, it was something simple. The difficult bit is finding the problem in the first place! HTH

Forgot to say, Discool may be right and you have just flooded it. It does happen (quite easily) so you never know! Maybe pull all the plugs, give them a clean and then pop them back in. If you can, warm the plugs up then put them in (quickly before all the heat sinks in to the heads) then crank it over. While cleaning and heating up the plugs shove a battery charger/booster on to make sure you have max battery for cranking, sometimes just a little more battery power makes a difference.

Hi buddy, thank you for that, I'm setting aside tomorrow to try again. Hopefully the weather will be kind and I can cracked on with it. I've looked briefly at my ignition amp and the previous owner has had a problem with the blue wire! Totally rusted that goes into the plug he has put a jumper wire to other side of plug. To be honest with you it looks ****e! As it sits out of sight it could also be the connection, the amp it's self almost looks like the original so as a matter of course I shall replace that. I've managed to hold of another amr 6429 alarm box as the inside of mine looks suspect. Quick question will i have to re program the unit I've received ?
Hope your mending well?
Many thanks
Dave

IIRC the immobilisation will cut the fuel pump, so if it's getting fuel then i'd be looking into ignition..

Have yoy tried running a direct feed from the battery to the coil just to see if she kicks over?

Bushcrusher said:

Hi buddy, thank you for that, I'm setting aside tomorrow to try again. Hopefully the weather will be kind and I can cracked on with it. I've looked briefly at my ignition amp and the previous owner has had a problem with the blue wire! Totally rusted that goes into the plug he has put a jumper wire to other side of plug. To be honest with you it looks ****e! As it sits out of sight it could also be the connection, the amp it's self almost looks like the original so as a matter of course I shall replace that. I've managed to hold of another amr 6429 alarm box as the inside of mine looks suspect. Quick question will i have to re program the unit I've received ?
Hope your mending well?
Many thanks
Dave

Click to expand...

No programming required, of course u have the matching fob/s for unit.

Henry_b said:

IIRC the immobilisation will cut the fuel pump, so if it's getting fuel then i'd be looking into ignition..

Click to expand...

Not quite, there only two circuits, starter and ignition supplies that the immobiliser unit interrupts.

discool said:

Not quite, there only two circuits, starter and ignition supplies that the immobiliser unit interrupts.

Click to expand...

Ahh..

Good to know!

Henry_b said:

Ahh..

Good to know!

Click to expand...

Yup no ignition supply EFI no works, EFI no works, fuel pump no works, fuel pump no works, engine no start.
Which is Thatcham approved plus the starter inhibit of course

Narp no fob with it, but there is a guy in Brighton who can read programme them and fobs and do a complete service on the amr unit. Very good price to.