1980 Series 3 diesel rebuild

John52 · Feb 10, 2020

Hi all,

I started a new thread now I have the landy at home and on the driveway, it’s time to start planning the strip down and rebuild.. I was happy with it once it finally arrived having bought it over the phone. Seems like a perfect base to start with all original paint etc, engine sounds good and chasis is very sold.

first thing to do this week is try and give the engine bay a jet wash so I can see where to start.
Any and all suggestions welcome !

ok now for some pictures.

imortim1 · Feb 11, 2020

Looks like a Santana to me.

rob1miles · Feb 11, 2020

Looks like it mostly needs a good clean and rust treatment. My advice would be to jet wash everything, waxoil the chassis inside and out, do all the oils, take the drumsoff and check the brakes - clean the shoes and look for leaks, then go for some long drives and get used to how it drives and if there are any mechnical things that need attention. These are fun so its good to drive them and you may decide it doesn't need a rebuild, just a good service. Buying a vehicle and taking it apart is risky, bits get lost, money gets spent for not much fun, motivation gets lost and faults are missed, better to live with it a while then decide on a plan.

John52 · Feb 13, 2020

rob1miles said:
Looks like it mostly needs a good clean and rust treatment. My advice would be to jet wash everything, waxoil the chassis inside and out, do all the oils, take the drumsoff and check the brakes - clean the shoes and look for leaks, then go for some long drives and get used to how it drives and if there are any mechnical things that need attention. These are fun so its good to drive them and you may decide it doesn't need a rebuild, just a good service. Buying a vehicle and taking it apart is risky, bits get lost, money gets spent for not much fun, motivation gets lost and faults are missed, better to live with it a while then decide on a plan.

Thanks that’s sounds like great advice !! I’m busy with work this week but Monday I will try and give the whole thing a good jet wash. I’m trying to make a homemade degreaser ready for Job, as I just can’t find it anywhere locally. I’ve noticed small things, the speedo doesn’t work, no dash lights, I need to fit seatbelts, obviously change all oil and filters etc, the more I think about the your advice, I can imagine a pile of pieces on the drive!!! although its hard to admit it would of likely ended up as you predicted cheers I think I will choose to learn from others experiences

rob1miles · Feb 13, 2020

Old houses are the same, it is very easy (and very expensive) to pull of some loose wall paper, in no time there's some loose plaster and shorlty after that you are in for a re-plaster and re-wire. Its usually best to stick the loose bit back and put the kettle on.

John52 · Feb 13, 2020

rob1miles said:
Old houses are the same, it is very easy (and very expensive) to pull of some loose wall paper, in no time there's some loose plaster and shorlty after that you are in for a re-plaster and re-wire. Its usually best to stick the loose bit back and put the kettle on.

Disco1BFG · Feb 13, 2020

rob1miles said:
Looks like it mostly needs a good clean and rust treatment. My advice would be to jet wash everything, waxoil the chassis inside and out, do all the oils, take the drumsoff and check the brakes - clean the shoes and look for leaks, then go for some long drives and get used to how it drives and if there are any mechnical things that need attention. These are fun so its good to drive them and you may decide it doesn't need a rebuild, just a good service. Buying a vehicle and taking it apart is risky, bits get lost, money gets spent for not much fun, motivation gets lost and faults are missed, better to live with it a while then decide on a plan.

There's some fine advice above

Apart from the waxoyl. Used to be good, but is now utter rubbish IMO.

Far better to use a rust converter ( Fertan is my choice ), and then use a proper underbody wax, or paint it properly with solvent based paint - NOT water based.

Fertan is available on the bay

a good alternative is:-

https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/hydrate-80

a proper under body wax is:-

https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/dynax-ub

and a proper cavity wax is:-

https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/dynax-s50

Blackburn · Feb 13, 2020

Dash lights where originally separate switch to left of main light switch. Speedo could be slack output flange rear output or snapped / damaged speedo cable.

Bobsticle · Feb 14, 2020

Just drive it. If it ain’t broke don’t try and fix it.

wwwfc666 · Feb 21, 2020

Restoring a 2.25 diesel is the best crack you will have with your pants on..
Get on it !!

John52 · Feb 22, 2020

Hi guys well I took your advise I’ve been driving it and smiling a lot !!!!! Give the engine bay a good clean and put in some seat belts. Next plan is the try and clean up and paint the wheels as it needs tyres soon. I also want to look for a bonnet mount for the spare.

Riggwelter · Feb 29, 2020

Good luck! You have a lot to look forward to (hm, in all aspects...). I recommend Steamwally's page on youtube and this page which has helped me a lot. A piece of advice when it comes to the engine: unless you know what you're doing, have a pro work on it. I was unlucky, and it cost me a lot of money... but, have fun and welcome to the world of driving a 'trattor', as Bobsticle puts it.

John52 · Mar 10, 2020

So I started treating and painting the chasis I used bilthammer products as recommended and I am very happy with
the results!! I also decided to replace the exhaust as it had a big hole in the back box. So I know what I am doing tomorrow!!!

divie · Mar 12, 2020

Careful what you wish for with bonnet mounted spare. The bonnet with a wheel on is a bugger to lift and if you nudge the bonnet stay when working on the engine......It hurts your head.
Is your engine three or five main bearing ? Fives painted terracotter and have herringbone ribbing on lower crankcase/block.

tottot · Mar 13, 2020

Your springs look in pretty good order, however if you jack up each corner in turn and spray some oil between the leaves this will improve the ride/articulation.
Old dampers/shocks are easy to replace and will help with handling. Looks a good project, have fun.

rob1miles · Mar 13, 2020

I have the bonnet mounted spare and lifitng the boonet is a bit like doing a bench press! I like the spare on the bonnet as it is the one place its out the way but make really (really!) sure the bonnet stay works, mine fell WITHOUT the spare on and broke my finger, and does that ever hurt.

John52 · Mar 13, 2020

Thanks guys for all the encouragement and advice ! So a hard hat will be recommended when under the bonnet. Ha ha first of all I have to find a bonnet spare holder and I’m not having much luck there...

So I got the exhaust fitted it was a bit of a pig of a job not being able to lift the landy very hi. But I got there in the end. Now I’m going to turn to the interior seating, widow seals and door alignment etc. While I workout about a respray should I try it myself ? or save up and get it done properly!! Anyone who’s good on the spray gun and wants a weeks holiday in Spain let me know !,

Rodeo Joe · Mar 13, 2020

I used a spare wheel holder from a back door on my bonnet, works fine and easy to come by.

John52 · Mar 13, 2020

Now that’s an idea

John52 · Mar 13, 2020

Ok so I started removing the seats this morning and I just couldn’t stop !!! I even started to add some flashband soundproofing while I was at it .. by the way any suggestions for a good flooring that’s not going to cost a fortune!!

Ok

1980 Series 3 diesel rebuild

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