Other Yuasa 019 battery feedback

Just some feedback of this battery

fitted it back in jan from halfords , gave it a full charge first and has lasted 5 x weeks on the D3 , has just hit 12.64Vdc

Disco hasn’t moved or been started in that time , just put it back on charge as I didn’t want it drop any lower

Former battery was an Exide EA1000 and would only last around 2 1/2 weeks

Haven’t had a yuasa before , very pleased seeing the disco is very power hungry

also wished to say a massive thks to @lynall for the recommendation

Cost , with a halfords trade card , fitted and 5 x year warranty £120

gstuart said:

Just some feedback of this battery

fitted it back in jan from halfords , gave it a full charge first and has lasted 5 x weeks on the D3 , has just hit 12.64Vdc

Disco hasn’t moved or been started in that time , just put it back on charge as I didn’t want it drop any lower

Former battery was an Exide EA1000 and would only last around 2 1/2 weeks

Haven’t had a yuasa before , very pleased seeing the disco is very power hungry

also wished to say a massive thks to @lynall for the recommendation

Cost , with a halfords trade card , fitted and 5 x year warranty £120

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So are u comparing like for like? ie. both have the same capacity, if the Yuasa battery is greater then why be surprised.

discool said:

So are u comparing like for like? ie. both have the same capacity, if the Yuasa battery is greater then why be surprised.

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Yes same 100AH and 900CCA, but for some reason the Exide just does not have the balls the Yuasa does.
I do mainly 5 mile commutes in mine, the Exide would need a visit from the trickle charger weekly in the winter, I have not trickle charged the Yuasa for a couple of months now.

Now I’ve got the exide fitted and have no complaints with it

johnlad said:

Now I’ve got the exide fitted and have no complaints with it

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Hopefully they’ve improved the exide by now

I installed an Exide EG1101 on my D2 more than 3 years ago and have no complaints. Never used a charger on it either.

The D2 has a conventional charging system but the D3 may use smart charging or some other form of intelligent BMS regulated charging. SIlver (like your Yuasa) or Calcium batteries are more suited if that's the case since these batteries are designed for higher alternator output whereas a conventional Antimony-based battery would suffer damage.

NPG said:

I installed an Exide EG1101 on my D2 more than 3 years ago and have no complaints. Never used a charger on it either.

The D2 has a conventional charging system but the D3 may use smart charging or some other form of intelligent BMS regulated charging. SIlver (like your Yuasa) or Calcium batteries are more suited if that's the case since these batteries are designed for higher alternator output whereas a conventional Antimony-based battery would suffer damage.

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hi

Many thks as thats very interesting , looked and it says “ Technology Ca/Ca”

exide says “ Technology Wet”

here’s a link to the yuasa

https://www.yuasa.co.uk/ybx5019.html

https://www.yuasa.co.uk/yuasa/datasheet/index/sku/YBX5019/

maybe that’s why the batteries are so different , every day is a school day

many thks once again for the heads up, also indeed the alternator will charge up to 15.8Vdc

Found some more info ref the exide , with it saying a max of 14.4Vdc maybe that why my alternator screwed it up ??

also more info I used a ctek every few weeks to recharge the EA1000

https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/exide/Exide+(Flooded)+User+Manual.pdf

also wasn’t aware about leaving it for 12 x hours

CHARGING (using charging devices).

Sparks can cause explosions especially during and after charging. Only charge off vehicle in a well ventilated area. Disconnect and connect as described in “B”. Only use direct current (DC) automatic regulated chargers.

Charge voltage should be 14.4 volts maximum. Follow the charger instructions. With charger not connected to the mains connect (+) cable to (+) battery terminal and (-) cable to (-) battery terminal. Switch on charger from as remote a position as possible.

Charging is sufficient to allow battery to be refitted when the voltage has been stable (14.4 volts) for two hours or more. Switch off power supply to charger before disconnecting. If the battery temperature becomes hot to the touch cease charging and seek professional advice.

It is important not to create any sparks after charging the battery, as this is the time when the accumulation of explosive gasses is at its maximum. It is recommended that batteries are left for at least 12 Hours after the charge current is switched off.

E. JUMP STARTING FOR CARS. It is not a recommended procedure. If it is deemed essential, follow the instructions in the car manual.

gstuart said:

hi

Many thks as thats very interesting , looked and it says “ Technology Ca/Ca”

exide says “ Technology Wet”

here’s a link to the yuasa

https://www.yuasa.co.uk/ybx5019.html

https://www.yuasa.co.uk/yuasa/datasheet/index/sku/YBX5019/

maybe that’s why the batteries are so different , every day is a school day

many thks once again for the heads up, also indeed the alternator will charge up to 15.8Vdc

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Then your alternator is OVERCHARGING or your volt meter is inaccurate

discool said:

Then your alternator is OVERCHARGING of your volt meter is inaccurate

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hiya

I always thought that when I first had the D3 , so checked on the D3 forum as I was worried seeing those volts ,checking with several multimeters , found out that’s normal for them to reach those volts

as a broad average when driving I’ve seen 13.5 - 14.8 Vdc

Was a learning curve as I hadn’t heard of these smart alternators before

gstuart said:

hiya

I always thought that when I first had the D3 , so checked on the D3 forum as I was worried seeing those volts ,checking with several multimeters , found out that’s normal for them to reach those volts

as a broad average when driving I’ve seen 13.5 - 14.8 Vdc

Was a learning curve as I hadn’t heard of these smart alternators before

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Then get one of your multimeters checked and certified, my Fluke although it cost £222.00 has a certificate and shows it is over reading in the DC setting, only 2% so not an issue.
At the time I purchased four more Fluke meters to give to my engineers which kept them happy, at the the time the meters were discounted by RS at 20% so a bargain.

Automotive batteries and charging it’s not my field, but the from the 1980s I’ve been involved, among other things, in battery installation and charger design installed in telecommunications, security and life safety systems, from huge battery racks with their chargers, stand alone cabinets to small control panels.

And guess what, I use Yuasa sealed batteries 80% of the time, which obviously come in all sizes, a lot different from the glass accumulators once used. Never had issues with Yuasa products so fit and forget but they don’t last forever and still need a maintenance check four times a year.

Indeed know ur very knowledgeable and is always appreciated

After I first took the readings I thought they were out , because I had never seen readings like that before and wasn’t useto the newer alternators higher outputs

Funny enough Do get my My multimeters checked , mate does them for me periodically , didn’t need the certificate otherwise he would have to charge me

only time I needed a certificate was on my Kane boiler analyser

have a fluke myself, not as expensive as urself but always considered them very good

Many Thks , good to know ref the yuasa and appreciate the info

discool said:

Then your alternator is OVERCHARGING or your volt meter is inaccurate

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Nah, std fare on a D3, mine runs at 15.1v pretty much all the time, due to the short trips I do in it, highest I have seen is 15.3v.
Any sort of run sees that drops to low 14v.

Iirc alt does what the ecu tells it to do.

NPG said:

I installed an Exide EG1101 on my D2 more than 3 years ago and have no complaints. Never used a charger on it either.

The D2 has a conventional charging system but the D3 may use smart charging or some other form of intelligent BMS regulated charging. SIlver (like your Yuasa) or Calcium batteries are more suited if that's the case since these batteries are designed for higher alternator output whereas a conventional Antimony-based battery would suffer damage.

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Apples and pears mate, tech is totally different.

Might be a vicious rumour, but was told land rover kept the D2 charging so low to hlep prevent chassis rust