Freelander 1 What’s needed for K-series head gasket job?

A mate of mine has bought a 1.8 (04, I think). I asked about the head gasket and he said it had been done, but now it’s overheated. I haven’t seen it yet, but I think it’s about to turn up at my workshop...

My plan is, from research on here:
1. Check for other reasons for overheating (fan, thermostat etc).
2. Strip down and check block for pitting, other damage, check liners are 1-3 thou above block (straightedge and feeler gauge?)
3. Send head off for skim and pressure test (it’s been done at least once already).
4. Fit new gasket (Payen BW750? LVB500190G?)

Things needed:
Gasket as above
Head bolts + angle torque gauge
Anything else? Where can I find torque specs and procedure, or shall I just get a Haynes? What about a timing kit?

Cue pictures of matches and petrol cans.

guineafowl21 said:

Send head off for skim and pressure test (it’s been done at least once already)

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A hardness test is more important than a pressure test.

guineafowl21 said:

Fit new gasket (Payen BW750?

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They seem to be hard to get at the moment, but definitely fit the Payen in preference to the MLS, if you can find it.

Nodge68 said:

A hardness test is more important than a pressure test.

They seem to be hard to get at the moment, but definitely fit the Payen in preference to the MLS, if you can find it.

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Thanks. You mean if the head gets cooked, it loses its hardness? I’ve not had that test done on a head before.

guineafowl21 said:

You mean if the head gets cooked, it loses its hardness?

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That's exactly it. If the head has gone soft, then the HG will fail again very soon.

Best to have a means of locking the camshafts together, and new stretch bolts

Have head checked: hardness and flatness [ skim]
parts: Head gasket - I used a Payen BW750 as my liners are at uneven heights
head bolts, inlet & exhaust gaskets, & possibly a cam cover gasket too.
Coolant [5.5litres]
Engine oil & Filter?
If the cam belt was done recently = no problem, otherwise Cam belt, tensioner.
You could also replace the thermostat.
Have a careful look at the coolant tank - the often craze / crack around the neck - new cap too.
Make sure the jiggle valve is free & clear - its on the the inlet manifold near the thermostat.
new tensioner bolt
& yes a cam locking tool is very helpful.

tools: plug spanner
good socket set.
selection of extension bars
torx socket to fit head bolts E14?
torque wrench
trolley jack to support engine when you take off the engine mount to get the cam belt off/on
10mm allen key for the tensioner bolt
support for the body when you take the front wheel off

BIG TIP - do not move the crank when the head is off

It's a pretty easy motor to work on - have fun

Discount mg Rover spares has a lot of info on the hgf issue and how to check which gasket to use.

Thanks all. We had a look yesterday:
Coolant tank is cracked but not leaking yet (soapy water round area while pressurised).
Fans work.
The flow into the header tank is a feeble dribble, even after flushing rad and block.
Evidence of coppery K seal in tank, conversely, it doesn’t look like the head has actually been done - no evidence of disturbed bolts etc.
Coolant temp fluctuates when driving.
No mayo anywhere, but possibly petrol smell from coolant tank.
It appears to already have the PRT thermostat mod.

There are multiple problems with the car anyway, so he’s decided to try a water pump change only and see what happens. It will probably need a head job, probably isn’t worth it but we both fancy having a go.

J_D said:

Discount mg Rover spares has a lot of info on the hgf issue and how to check which gasket to use.

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Yes, I found that site. Very useful.

BW750 is no longer manufactured or available. Not sure what the alternative is, perhaps dmrs should know.

PRO said:

BW750 is no longer manufactured or available. Not sure what the alternative is, perhaps dmrs should know.

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The BW750 is still available. https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections...ayen-bw750-elastomer-head-gasket-set-full-kit

Are you sure? Shows oem q which is presented as a copy of bw750 and does not look like it either

PRO said:

Are you sure? Shows oem q which is presented as a copy of bw750 and does not look like it either

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DMGRs don't normally try to short change its customers. The picture could be an old image, but it does say BW750 clone in the description. An email to them would confirm how good a clone it is.

Indeed, I like them very much actually going to shop for things now.
Don't need a bw750 hg is fine but I should stock one myself for rainy days.

Just stripping down to change the water pump (only a feeble dribble into the expansion tank).

The timing appears to be a tooth off (crank ahead of the valves, assuming the crank pulley runs clockwise).

The water pump impeller just spins on its axis; not being driven by the pulley, which is a new one on me.

guineafowl21 said:

The timing appears to be a tooth off (crank ahead of the valves, assuming the crank pulley runs clockwise

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It's surprisingly common.

guineafowl21 said:

The water pump impeller just spins on its axis; not being driven by the pulley, which is a new one on me

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Is the impeller plastic? I've seen plenty of plastic water pump impellers come loose.

Nodge68 said:

It's surprisingly common.

Is the impeller plastic? I've seen plenty of plastic water pump impellers come loose.

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Metal. But probably a cheap one as there are various signs of an ape working on the thing. Sealant in the wrong places, stripped and missing bolts... that kind of thing.

guineafowl21 said:

Metal. But probably a cheap one as there are various signs of an ape working on the thing. Sealant in the wrong places, stripped and missing bolts... that kind of thing.

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Possible then.
There shouldn't be any sealer there anyway, except on the cam ladder to head joint, when the correct sealant is vital.

Nodge68 said:

Possible then.
There shouldn't be any sealer there anyway, except on the cam ladder to head joint, when the correct sealant is vital.

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In the past I've used a smear of sealant to hold the seal in the groove and also allow it to slide a little into position. I never had any issues with it afterwards.
Be careful of the locating pin coming away with the old pump. It happened to me once and caused a bit of confusion for a while.

Alibro said:

In the past I've used a smear of sealant to hold the seal in the groove and also allow it to slide a little into position. I never had any issues with it afterwards.
Be careful of the locating pin coming away with the old pump. It happened to me once and caused a bit of confusion for a while.

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I used some silicone grease to hold it there. There was sealant all round the mating (non-sealing) flat areas of the pump, outside the O-ring, and gumming up all the bolts and locating dowel holes.

So far, so good. My mate’s taken it back for a cautious test, and all being well we’ll put on a new timing belt tensioner (I re-used everything for now). Then start tackling the other jobs once it’s proved itself.