Dumb iron replacement...

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Marmaduke

Marmaduke

Well-Known Member
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Anyone ever tackled this job? Mine's completely stripped but there's a couple of holes in both dumb irons
20200214_120111.jpg

20200214_120118.jpg


I've already bought the replacements, is it just chop the old ones off and weld new ones on?
Any tips or pointers to make a good job of it?
Cheers Rob
 
Do them one at a time so you can check alignment with the one still on, and if you can pass a straight rod through the 4 spring mount holes things are pretty good.
 
I missed that you already had them. My thoughts:
Think carefully about where you will make the joints to the chassis. You want to get to sound material and some people have started this job then found they needed a front crossmember so do some poking about and grinding before you commit.
Set it all up - you can use a laser level with it all on blocks and check and check again. Measure the diagonals. Do you plan to do the welding, take it to a fabricators, or get a mobile welder in? If you can get it all prepped and set up then a moble welder can be a good solution.
I was talking to a guy who paid a garage to fit a rear 1/4 chassis and it was out of line. The garage refunded a lot of the cost but that vehicle will never be right until it gets a new chassis.
 
rob1miles said:
I missed that you already had them. My thoughts:
Think carefully about where you will make the joints to the chassis. You want to get to sound material and some people have started this job then found they needed a front crossmember so do some poking about and grinding before you commit.
Set it all up - you can use a laser level with it all on blocks and check and check again. Measure the diagonals. Do you plan to do the welding, take it to a fabricators, or get a mobile welder in? If you can get it all prepped and set up then a moble welder can be a good solution.
I was talking to a guy who paid a garage to fit a rear 1/4 chassis and it was out of line. The garage refunded a lot of the cost but that vehicle will never be right until it gets a new chassis.
Click to expand...
Rest of the chassis is solid and I'll be welding it myself. I've got a Clarke 151 welder it .8 wire in it. Sounds like I need to get busy with the tape measure:oops:
 
I had mine done years ago by a guy in Birmingham. Not sure if he is still doing this type of work but he had made a jig to bolt on the chassis to ensure alignment. The jig was simple and mainly angle iron. Method was to fit the jig before cutting off the old parts.
 
Once you've the alignment right, via a jig, weld slowly. Distortion is a bitch. Do short runs, let it cool, check alignment, weld the other side, weld top, a bit, then weld the bottom, a bit.

It will distort every way, manage it.

I'd repair the holes, to be honest, I think the after market parts are thinner than the originals.
 
I did both on a series 2 a years ago . It was no big deal , just take plenty of measurements.

Gluv
 
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