Steep learning curve

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Got to the tie in point now on near side. Any tips?
461ED24A-BDD2-4059-8226-1A99078A4CA0.jpeg
1DC21FD3-F953-4079-BBD9-EB8F4F406D48.jpeg
B244CA20-9ED6-40FC-8483-B0634643F42A.jpeg
 
If still intact lol don’t know if your joking or not!
Have you seen the price of the body mount brackets? I’m sure I didnt pay that before and refuse to now! Gunna just make own as have two more to make. Cutting all that old inner sill off as it’s p1ssing me off to look at and the welding on it is really poor. All it’s doing is making a rust trap for the box section. Hopefully I’ll get that corner bit in soon. Cheers for pic
 
Mate it's mental, the price jump on the basics has been insane, boot floor is now almost £100, I remember not long ago it was less than £70, side panels were £120 for a pair and now they're that much each, wheel tubs were £45 and now over £90 and that's if you can get them at all and the sill body mounts have doubled in price over the last few years.
 
I thought it had all gone up!! I’m buying an inner wing but that’s to speed things up and begrudgingly. I don’t know if I can get away with repairing the front grill side body mounts. They’re a fortune too. If that’s an easy fab I will. Oh and 30 quid per battery tray?! Is there something I’m missing there that’s stopping me just welding a section of sheet in?! Forget about me paying 30 for a sill mount that won’t be a perfect fit anyway due to box sills. I’ll just make them.
 
Evening all, could I get a bit more advice on things please? I’m trying to put together a shopping list so I can budget out bits to buy.
The major issue I had mech wise was geometry - the car was trying to kill you when driven. I don’t want to buy any gimmicks ( green laning no pay and play) but need it to drive correctly. It’s got 2 inch lift. So, I’ve got on the list:
  • Extended bumpstops
  • Braided hoses (required?)
  • Arti a frame joint (fitted)
  • Power steering box is ****ing - are rebuild kits worthless?
  • Do I need an adjustable panhard rod?
  • Do I need the adjustable trailing arms or do we see how we go and buy if my new bushes etc haven’t got it where it needs to be?
 
In regards to the engine, on my list I have:

  • modified cambelt kit (can’t seem to acquire oem pulleys and not sure which ones are worth it as don’t want britpart really)
  • Waxy stat and gasket
  • P gasket
  • Aux belt
  • Oil filter n oil
  • Fuel filter
  • Air filter
  • Cabin filter
  • All new fluids
  • Valve clearances
 
2" requires very little, extended hoses being part of it, extended bump stops are only if you are running very tall tyres as they are intended to stop you stuffing the tyres into the arches, adjustable panhard rod is debatable and I'm not convinced that +2" is necessary, happy to be proven wrong but I run +2" on stock rod and it's fine, rear trailing arms are also stock as are the front radius arms.

I resealed my steering box and used a 31.75mm speedisleeve to repair the seal land as that is prone to pitting with rust at the seal and it eats itself away, it's perfectly doable with patience.

Bearmach should do the upgraded 300Tdi cam belt kit, and that is assuming that your engine hasn't already been fitted with it???

P gasket is easy enough as you can do that when you pull the timing case apart for the belt, just be sure to get new crank and cam seals for the timing case along with complete gasket set.
 
Don’t know with timing components until I whip the cover off. The price difference isn’t too bad. The inner wing section makes a bit of a dent in my pocket but that will be one of my monthly purchases lol. I have holes in my pockets and need to be a bit more savvy so trying to get an idea of what I need and I’ll buy one big expense per month
 
Looks like I’ll be making a new inner wing saying that as forgot I purchased the angled repair sections for both sides. Didn’t take long to do to be fair anyway
 
Nice.

If you have flat sheet steel the inner wings are actually quite easy, it's a very easy cheat to buy ready made but perfectly doable to make your own.

I’ve made one side already but I’ll make the other too as I have the little off the shelf panel to tie onto. I did 2mm angle at the a pillar then t’d off that and she came out well
 
Rear door handle snapped in my hand when I removed it. Mounting plate had rotted through. Spring was tired on arm.
Ordered a replacement, waited and waited. Never came due to loss in post and seller didn’t have another.
Got fed up with waiting so did what we do and made own!!
Made a new spring, welded on a new backplate and captive bolts. Handle has a nice ping to it no rather than a lazy slump.
D117D563-EFC7-4CAE-8376-1C84B54C745C.jpeg
FB34DAD2-A8F8-44F4-A600-5EDB54678C9C.jpeg
EF6BE32F-09FB-46E4-8D30-609D2B2C1BC7.jpeg
769AF481-DC13-4203-B925-EE8685156522.jpeg
 
Sweet.

I had so many plans this week to get out there for a few hours each night, the weather has indeed been very reasonable to be fair.

I'm sick, been horrifically ill for about a week now, started off with a bit of a sore throat and it's had a Kodak moment and developed into full blown flu FFS, manflu no less!!! Not to be confused with that lesser flu that wimmins can get, this is the manly mans type of flu, so bad last night that I was delirious apparently and spent many hours talking to invisible poeple and selling them manhole boxes, the Mrs. was not impressed, not in the slightest!!!

I still want to get out there and get the axle oils swapped out and sort out the transfer box ready for swapping out as well as the main gearbox cleaned up and ready for fitting by the garage, still deliberating over getting a new clutch to go in at the same time but the clutch fork is HD as is the release bearing so they need to go again, just want a new spigot bearing to go in the flywheel.
 
Back
Top