R380 stripped filler plug

I've had my 1995 Defender 110 (300tdi) for about 9 months and realized I should probably check the gearbox oil. However, the T55 plug was extremely tight and I have stripped it (in quite an impressive manner). I have tried bolt extractors as well as a punch to pound it counter-clockwise with no luck. The pictures are below. Does anyone have any ideas? I've scoured the internet and haven't found anything quite like my situation.

Weld a key onto the plug ,let it cool then undo
You're welcome

If only I had a welder...

OneZero said:

If only I had a welder...

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Ah, there's your problem !
If you haven't drained the oil, just get it to a workshop ideally with a ting welder and get them to weld a key or a bolt onto it

I reckon a quality pipe wrench will get a grip on that, not old and worn with rounded jaw edges, but quality with new sharp edges on the jaws.

You cou

lynall said:

I reckon a quality pipe wrench will get a grip on that, not old and worn with rounded jaw edges, but quality with new sharp edges on the jaws.

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I was thinking similar, the shoulders of the stillsons might get in the way though. Or did you mean the Plumming sliding types ? Might be worth trying some large mole grips?

trigga72 said:

Weld a key onto the plug ,let it cool then undo
You're welcome

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+1 - will probably find some one has used loctite on it

When you get it out, fit a plug with a hex head

You guys are awesome and I appreciate the recommendations! I have a plug from an LT77 ready to go once I get this bastard out. I have literally tried everything in my tools inventory with no luck so I'll probably take it to the garage on Monday and have them weld a bolt to it. I've spent two days trying to get it loose so I think I'll just drink a beer and start browsing the internet for a welder!

OneZero said:

You guys are awesome and I appreciate the recommendations! I have a plug from an LT77 ready to go once I get this bastard out. I have literally tried everything in my tools inventory with no luck so I'll probably take it to the garage on Monday and have them weld a bolt to it. I've spent two days trying to get it loose so I think I'll just drink a beer and start browsing the internet for a welder!

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That's the spirit !
At least you didn't take the drain out first !

trigga72 said:

At least you didn't take the drain out first !

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I'm glad I didn't drain it as well! That was another piece of valuable advice that I picked up from this forum!

trigga72 said:

You cou

I was thinking similar, the shoulders of the stillsons might get in the way though. Or did you mean the Plumming sliding types ? Might be worth trying some large mole grips?

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Moles wont work they will just chew it up more, sliding type might do it again need to be be with good square jaw edges and a quality make, but I am pretty certain a proper pipe wrench will get it.

lynall said:

Moles wont work they will just chew it up more, sliding type might do it again need to be bew with good square jaw edges and a quality make, but I am pretty certain proper pipe wrench will get it.

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Worth a try

trigga72 said:

Worth a try

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Moles have two uses,1 for holding something whilst you weld it and 2 for holding something whilst you weld it

lynall said:

Moles have two uses,1 for holding something whilst you weld it and 2 for holding something whilst you weld it

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That's true , but they have been known to get people out of the ****e now and again

Hiya

for what it’s worth when I’ve had issue like this I’ve used a Dremel, cut in a slot then taped it round

alas though looking at that getting something welded onto it sounds favourable

if I may also make sure u disconnect ur alternator and battery before the welder is used

fingers crossed it comes out with the least amount of agro

Small chisel and tap it round with hammer, maybe a bit of heat first on the ally casing

Chisel and a 'ammer.

Don't tighten the **** out of the new one..

Absolutely no need.

Really ****es me off when i get one in for a service and the previous mechie/DIYER cranked it up like a f"ucking headbolt.

I've tried the chisel and hammer quite a bit but the plug won't move...it just deforms the soft metal which is evident in the picture. I have all day tomorrow to keep trying though!

Henry_b said:

Chisel and a 'ammer.

Don't tighten the **** out of the new one..

Absolutely no need.

Really ****es me off when i get one in for a service and the previous mechie/DIYER cranked it up like a f"ucking headbolt.

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plus 1, before I’ve used a dremel on other filler plugs , cut a slot then knocked it round , along with some gentle heat



also reminds me I need to get my auto filler out on the ZF6, don’t think it’s been removed for a long time, will use the dremel first to clean it up then see if it moves, new filler plug is the flange type , shame the drain plug is plastic

gstuart said:

plus 1, before I’ve used a dremel on other filler plugs , cut a slot then knocked it round , along with some gentle heat



also reminds me I need to get my auto filler out on the ZF6, don’t think it’s been removed for a long time, will use the dremel first to clean it up then see if it moves, new filler plug is the flange type , shame the drain plug is plastic

View attachment 198930

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Stick an Alan in there G

And give it a good whack with a big 'ammer

Shock it loose!!

constant pressure will strip it..