Roof insulation.

I am just about to fit a new roof head lining to my 90, is there any merit in lining the roof with foam before I do this .

Steve.

Closed cell camping Matt's and hi temp spray adhesive seems to be the way to go. Bit of sound and heat insulation. Also cuts down on condensation.

Make sure adhesive is compatible with foam matting or it could melt it.

I used that bubble wrap stuff that is foil backed. The glue I used was Nemesis High Temp Spray Adhesive from Screwfix. It’s been on for around 3-4 years now, still holding up. The only thing I regret was not adding sound deadening to the roof first.

3mm closed cell foam off eblag, cheap as chips and self adhesive.

Glue glue glue it is all about the glue, seriously buy some good stuff.

Thanks everyone this is just what I wanted.

Steve.

Done mine with the proper pre stick 6mm foam used panel wipe to clean panel job done it cost about £30 off eBay

For the roof youre better off using an open cell acoustic foam. Much better soundproofing properties and noy likely to soak up water

bankz5152 said:

For the roof youre better off using an open cell acoustic foam. Much better soundproofing properties and noy likely to soak up water

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Dont you mean closed cell?

Get some sound deadener as well. I have use silent coat and its good. There is dynamat and various other brands as well

mick the builder said:

Dont you mean closed cell?

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Nope. Open on the roof. Closed everywhere else.

bankz5152 said:

Nope. Open on the roof. Closed everywhere else.

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Going to agree to disagree on that one. Open cell foam , or sponge, will do exactly that and soak up moisture in the van.
When I did spray foam insulation, outside sheds with steel roofs were always sprayed with closed cell where as internal roof spaces were sprayed with open cell to allow timbers to breath

Fair point though thats in housing not cars. Most soundproofing in cars is an open cell type. Its not great for Defenders as we all know they leak water in. Opencell will soak it up and cause rot.

Seeing as its on the roof that isnt likely unless youve a severe leak in the roof.

2 years later its still dry as a bone up there.

mick the builder said:

Going to agree to disagree on that one. Open cell foam , or sponge, will do exactly that and soak up moisture in the van.
When I did spray foam insulation, outside sheds with steel roofs were always sprayed with closed cell where as internal roof spaces were sprayed with open cell to allow timbers to breath

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Agree, Open cell to allow timbers to breathe is one thing. Land Rovers don't have timbers that need to breath.


We had a good frost a few days ago. My LD has no roof lining currently, just shiny paint, the whole inside of the roof was covered in thick frost, which later thawed and became a very wet celing dripping onto the seats and floor. I even leave the windows open a little for extra ventilation.

I have a replacement roof lining on the table at the moment, which I am recovering. There are very visible water stains on it. So even with the lining in place condensation is still prescent and probably why the linings tand to sag after a few years (well, a dozen or so).

Before I refit I will be insulating the roof with with kip-mats which are closed-cell foam. I have also made six 20mm holes in the roof lining to alow for better movement of air between the insulation and the lining.


Val.