Any performance to be gained?

Hi. Just planning out fettling my '81 88" petrol. Got the Weber. Is there anything else I can plan to do to "improve" the 2.25 petrol? Obvs not looking for anything startling, just want to get the best from the "standard" engine without losing torque and what reliability there may be remaining. As I'm not using it anywhere sandy, I suppose I could put a freer-flowing filter on it and bigger jets. Not looking for speed, but power. Probably whistlin' Dixie, but I thought I'd ask. (Gulp)

You could fit a four branch exhaust down pipe, an Australian company make them but they ain't cheap. Other than that you are looking at some complicated engineering mods to the engine internals. Some people fit Rangerover diffs to alter the ratios or you could dump the standard engine and fit summat bigger, e.g. V8

Col

ACR do a lot of power upgrades for the 2.25 but they aren't cheap. They even do a 2.8 version which kicks out over 100 bhp. A 2.5 petrol cam is supposed to add power without losing torque but I've never fitted one myself.

Don't expect too much improvement from a free-flow air filter. I tried a K&N filter some time back (admittedly I didn't change anything else) and I couldn't detect any difference in performance. But it was noisy and I went back to the oil-bath filter.
If you don't already have electronic ignition, that's always a good idea - more to keep the engine in tune than to get extra BHP.
As noted already, there are lots of options out there, it all depends on how deep your pockets are...

https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/Performance-Heads

Better cylinder head from turners , lose the existing mechanical fan and fit electric should save a few hp

FFS !!! What a load of crap. Keep it completely original. Why? Because that why LR designed it. Weber is an acceptable after market upgrade but just keep it standard thereafter. The 2.25L petrol landy engine is a design classic, less is more.

John S said:

FFS !!! What a load of crap. Keep it completely original. Why? Because that why LR designed it. Weber is an acceptable after market upgrade but just keep it standard thereafter. The 2.25L petrol landy engine is a design classic, less is more.

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Oy you. I can’t leave the house without my furry dice

John S said:

FFS !!! What a load of crap. Keep it completely original. Why? Because that why LR designed it. Weber is an acceptable after market upgrade but just keep it standard thereafter. The 2.25L petrol landy engine is a design classic, less is more.

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I agree

Chopz said:

I agree

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I agree too but an extra 10 miles per hour would make a hell of a difference.

Col

I consider an SU carb to be a much better upgrade than a weber

Most older engines will have lost some horses over the years. How many miles has it done? Just making sure it is up to spec on things like compression, valve clearance, ignition timing and quality of spark can help a lot.
I found that a Zenith 36iv [ as fitted to 3 bearing 2.25s ] gave more top end than the common weber aftermarket fit which was sold as something to decrease fuel use.

I find with old land rovers to get any speed out of them you have to drive them like you stole it
Many be you need to change the diff's for Range Rover diff's,that what l did to my 2.25 diesel

Range Rover diffs in a 2.25 diesel ? What a disaster that can be, I tried them and put the 4.7s back after three weeks. The 2.25 diesel will not pull the taller gearing and you spend all the time in third gear.

What is the problem? If its hills and off road then invest in more power, if its cruising speed then get an overdrive or 3.54 diffs (or both). I run 3.54 diffs and an OD so we are 2000rpm at 60 but low range is a must for any rough ground and pulling away when towing but we are 99% on road so this solved our problem of slow crusing and noise. We run a 3.3L Perkins but its rated power is only 63hp vs the 80hp of the petrol.

No problem in my short wheel base
Lwb is a bit slow
2.25D engine can be given more power by just uping the fuel delivery

divie said:

Range Rover diffs in a 2.25 diesel ? What a disaster that can be, I tried them and put the 4.7s back after three weeks. The 2.25 diesel will not pull the taller gearing and you spend all the time in third gear.

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With the loaded LWB and OD I find I use 3rd, 3rd+OD and 4th a lot as this a very usefull range, then 4th +OD once we get on the open road (or above the heady speed of 45).

Thanks to all. I have found an O/D unit to bolt on and will probably limit my "upgrades" to the Weber, Turner engineering head exchange with porting, and a good service. I really don't want any more speed than the O/D unit will give me; just efficiency and reliability, as far as that is achievable in such an engine. It's going to be my daily driver once it's "done". Anyone out there got a petrol cylinder head for the 2.25 or know where one can be sourced? Would like to keep her running while Turners do their stuff.

rob1miles said:

With the loaded LWB and OD I find I use 3rd, 3rd+OD and 4th a lot as this a very usefull range, then 4th +OD once we get on the open road (or above the heady speed of 45).

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An often overlooked advantage of the OD is the "split gear" 3rd +OD, I've never worked the gear ratio out but it does feel nicely placed between 3rd and 4th . You soon develop the technique of changing OD and Primary gearleaver at the same time, you go 1st, 2nd, 3rd as normal then OD in from there to go 4th no OD you hook your index finger around the primary gear lever (the knob is way to far away) with the rest of your hand forming a fist it will rest nicely against the OD gear lever knob then you can pull them both back together to put you in 4th no OD, I sort of think of it as a six speed gearbox. If you start labouring uphill it is possible to to go from 4th to 3rd +OD in one move but I needed a little mod on the primary lever to manage this successfully.