P38A Diesel Head Removal - Flywheel Pin / Camshaft Locking Plate

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I've noticed lots of rads have additional outlets at the bottom. Am I right to say the auto model should NOT have these outlets? I've not worked on a manual example before, so assuming they are different.
 
I've noticed lots of rads have additional outlets at the bottom. Am I right to say the auto model should NOT have these outlets? I've not worked on a manual example before, so assuming they are different.

The manual passes the gearbox oil through a pipe at the bottom of the rad. Just ignore on the auto as that has its own gearbox oil rad.
 
I've noticed lots of rads have additional outlets at the bottom. Am I right to say the auto model should NOT have these outlets? I've not worked on a manual example before, so assuming they are different.
I have one, you just use the spanner to close it up, it's for a manual (it's a pipe outlet) works fine
 
I can't find any alloy rads with baffles, so I've sourced a new Nissens one. The plastic top is not a good idea, but I suspect they only burst if the system is overpressurised in the first place.

I will of course check with a borescope to ensure the baffle is there!

That's new chains, new tensioners and guides, new radiator, new QH water pump and thermostat, new hoses, a hot pressure tested head, new oil cooler pipes, new o-rings, Elring head gasket, Elring stretch bolts (and whilst I'm at it, a new aircon condenser and dryer)...... should be nicely sorted for a good few years!
 
I can't find any alloy rads with baffles, so I've sourced a new Nissens one. The plastic top is not a good idea, but I suspect they only burst if the system is overpressurised in the first place.

I will of course check with a borescope to ensure the baffle is there!

That's new chains, new tensioners and guides, new radiator, new QH water pump and thermostat, new hoses, a hot pressure tested head, new oil cooler pipes, new o-rings, Elring head gasket, Elring stretch bolts (and whilst I'm at it, a new aircon condenser and dryer)...... should be nicely sorted for a good few years!
The RAD's split from hot/cold heat cycles at the stress point caused by the ridge across the top for the bleed.
The V8 RAD which doesn't have the ridge across the top does not split. It's got nothing to do with either overheating or over pressure.
 
The RAD's split from hot/cold heat cycles at the stress point caused by the ridge across the top for the bleed.
The V8 RAD which doesn't have the ridge across the top does not split. It's got nothing to do with either overheating or over pressure.

Indeed they do. There is a brass tube in that ridge that bleeds air from the hot coolant inlet across to the bleed connector to the header tank.
 
Options were limited so had to go plastic, I may buy another and replace the plastic top with an ally top and TIG it together myself whilst I use the new Nissens one for the time being.

Wammers, seen that tube when I used a borescope on the existing rad. I've checked the line from the end of the tube / bleed connector to header tank is clear, ready for when it goes back together.
 
As regards the alloy Direnza rad which was in the link that Stig1 put in his, he replied that it does have a baffle as one side gets hot and all is running well.
 
As regards the alloy Direnza rad which was in the link that Stig1 put in his, he replied that it does have a baffle as one side gets hot and all is running well.

It was the sales team at Direnza who advised me their product does not have the internal baffle.
 
It was the sales team at Direnza who advised me their product does not have the internal baffle.

That why i asked stig1 as the link he put up was direnza and there was no mention of the baffle then you posted there was not but his one works so there must be one fitted, if not then all there p38 diesel rads a scrap.
need to get direnza to do the marble test and report back:D
 
Ever known a salesman that knows anything about what they are selling?

That why i asked stig1 as the link he put up was direnza and there was no mention of the baffle then you posted there was not but his one works so there must be one fitted, if not then all there p38 diesel rads a scrap.
need to get direnza to do the marble test and report back:D

I've sent an email back asking for futher clarity on how it works if no baffle is featured. Let's see what they say, I wouldn't like us to all assume their product is useless until we've given them a proper chance to explain.
 
Hopefully they will come back that it has, as then we all have a better option than the plastic:)
i did see the alloy ones down to £145 which is very good :)
 
Direnza have responded advising that 'with the coolant system under pressure we can confirm the vehicles coolant flows through the radiator to be cool and a baffle is an unnecessary restriction in the system.'

I will leave it with yourselves to decide on whether that is sufficient......
 
Direnza have responded advising that 'with the coolant system under pressure we can confirm the vehicles coolant flows through the radiator to be cool and a baffle is an unnecessary restriction in the system.'

I will leave it with yourselves to decide on whether that is sufficient......

Their rads are as useful as tits on a Mars bar then. Without the baffle coolant runs across the rad top without being cooled. It MUST go down one side from inlet and up the other to exit to be cooled.
 
Direnza have responded advising that 'with the coolant system under pressure we can confirm the vehicles coolant flows through the radiator to be cool and a baffle is an unnecessary restriction in the system.'

I will leave it with yourselves to decide on whether that is sufficient......
The coolant will take the path of least resistance, with no baffle, that will be straight across the top:eek:
 
I can't find any alloy rads with baffles, so I've sourced a new Nissens one. The plastic top is not a good idea, but I suspect they only burst if the system is overpressurised in the first place.

I will of course check with a borescope to ensure the baffle is there!

That's new chains, new tensioners and guides, new radiator, new QH water pump and thermostat, new hoses, a hot pressure tested head, new oil cooler pipes, new o-rings, Elring head gasket, Elring stretch bolts (and whilst I'm at it, a new aircon condenser and dryer)...... should be nicely sorted for a good few years!

Got the Nissens on mine. Been on there years with no issues. Pretty sure a load of us on here have one now.
 
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