Freelander 1 TD4 Cutting out under load

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moz

Member
Posts
25
Location
Shropshire
My 2006 TD4 has a problem and I have run out of ideas. It starts and ticks over as normal and will rev as it should on the path. When accelerating or driving uphill it cuts out then back it. It does not make any difference if I lift of the throttle or keep it depressed. It will accelerate up to and over 70mph just hiccuping on the way. So far I have replaced the low pressure pump and the filter. Checked the low and high fuel pressure, had the injectors tested (all okay), checked all the air intake hoses (they are new anyway), replaced the o rings on the fuel pressure regulator, replaced the MAF with a new Bosch one, replaced the fuel rail sensor with a new Bosch one, new air filter, new crankcase filters, egr is blanked,sensor voltages are all okay,checked the turbo boost control. It does not seem to blow smoke when it cuts in and out.
This started as a one off then got worse over a couple of days. There are no fault codes or management lights on.
If anybody has any suggestions as to what the cause could be please let me know.
 
You seem to have covered most things already, so as above - codes. Possibly even a dynamic scan by someone in the passenger seat while you drive.

Other possibilities: It sounds like an intermittent connection. Fuel pump relay? Crank sensor? Broken wire to fuel pressure regulator? Have a wiggle and tap around to see if you can elicit the fault.

ECU fault also possible,
 
Thanks for the replies and the list of possibilities . It is going for a more in-depth scan than I can do on Monday. Will keep looking and will update the forum as I go along. I have an icarsoft but it is not showing any faults. Will keep the forum posted.
 
have the vacuum hoses been checked ?
were another poster having similar intermittent engine hiccups ..
turned out to be a leaking vac. hose that upset the turbo vane action ..
( diagnostics didn't show anything amiss )
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Random cutting out of all cylinders can only be a few of things. The crank angle sensor, broken wire on the high pressure fuel regulator, or the same for the low pressure rail sensor. The first and last should put the MIL on and return a code.
 
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