90 Defender - won't start

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Cdathomas1986

Member
Posts
16
Location
Stokesley
Hi there, new to forum and new to owning a landy

I picked up a 1992 90 defender in Friday, it started up fine without any issues, I drove it from Leeds to stokesley, 24 hours later I went to start it and it failed.

On Sunday I found my jump. Leads and got it started and it ran fine for the day. Ran out a fuel. And battery then died trying to get it started

AA came to rescue me and got it startedbwith their booster pack and I got. It home.

I decide to Get new battery from. Euro car parts tried and still refused to start.

The engine turns over slowly but doesn't want to fire.

Since it turns over I feel that it is electrics but not starter motor, would it be battery, although euro wouldn't send out a flat batteryi am charging it hopefully tonight to rule that out

Anyone got any other ideas?

Thanks in advance
 
flat said:
Alternator not charging, starter motor knackered after prolonged cranking, charge up the battery and see what it does
Click to expand...

Alternator not starting,.

Yesterday was difference places so alot of starting stopping of the engine about 7 times over 6 hours and all turned over fine, if it was alternator issue, I'd of seen problems wouldn't I?

It seems that the issue is after prolonged standing,. Which lead me to. Battery being goosed and buying a replacement

Would glow plugs be a cause of it?
 
If it wouldn't start then started with a jump that suggests a battery/alternator issue. Charge everything up and try again and report back. If it then turns over fine but doesn't catch could be a fuel supply issue
 
So I charged battery up via car for 30 minutes last nught

She fired up, I drove her for around 30 minutes (approx 25 miles). Got her back home. And turned her off,

I immediately turn her back over and she fired up first time.

An hour or so later I went out and tried to start her,. And she just turned over with no start. She would crank Untill battery depleted itself.

My thoughts are the battery was charged enough to start her from cold. Or glow plugs are worn.
 
battery volts when running ? should be around 14v.

For the record my alternator isn't that strong but good enough, just about, but when I use full headlights etc it depleted the battery and the alternator for some reason won't keep up.
Could be on it's last legs like mine.
 
Cdathomas1986 said:
So I charged battery up via car for 30 minutes last nught

She fired up, I drove her for around 30 minutes (approx 25 miles). Got her back home. And turned her off,

I immediately turn her back over and she fired up first time.

An hour or so later I went out and tried to start her,. And she just turned over with no start. She would crank Untill battery depleted itself.

My thoughts are the battery was charged enough to start her from cold. Or glow plugs are worn.
Click to expand...
You have described several different things happening in this thread, but they don't all tally.

When it doesn't start, is it cranking normally or slowly?

I understand once the battery gets low it will crank slow (although no point in cranking it that long really......), but if it cranks normally and doesn't start, then I'd look at a couple of things.

1. Check you are getting 12v to the solenoid on the injector pump. It may be you have a cracked wire or bad connection.
2. Consider the fact you have an air leak in the fuel system. This could cause trouble starting.
3. Consider replacing the lift pump, as without fuel it will not start

If it only cranks slowly on a good battery, then the battery may be under sized or you may have poor contacts/earthing causing this, or a knackered starter motor.

To check the alternator, when the vehicle is running use a Multi Meter and check the voltage across the battery terminals, anything over 14v means it is charging.
 
I wonder if you have something draining the battery when left for a while. This sounds electrical to me

Aah wait sorry didn’t see the bit about cranking but not start,

This sounds like air is getting in the fuel system (cracked lines, perished rubber hose etc) that is letting the air in when standing
 
300bhp/ton said:
You have described several different things happening in this thread, but they don't all tally.

When it doesn't start, is it cranking normally or slowly?

I understand once the battery gets low it will crank slow (although no point in cranking it that long really......), but if it cranks normally and doesn't start, then I'd look at a couple of things.

1. Check you are getting 12v to the solenoid on the injector pump. It may be you have a cracked wire or bad connection.
2. Consider the fact you have an air leak in the fuel system. This could cause trouble starting.
3. Consider replacing the lift pump, as without fuel it will not start

If it only cranks slowly on a good battery, then the battery may be under sized or you may have poor contacts/earthing causing this, or a knackered starter motor.

To check the alternator, when the vehicle is running use a Multi Meter and check the voltage across the battery terminals, anything over 14v means it is charging.
Click to expand...

Sorry to me the crank is normal, and marries up with the battery losing charge or not charging during use.

I'm going to dig out my multimeter today or buy a new one along with a battery charger (all I have is a ootimate from my motorbike)

Air in the fuel line,. Would this also cause running issues? Or would it be a case of once it is running the pumps are doing the jib but when it stood a perished pipe allows diseal to drain crack a air leak which stops it from starting,
 
flat said:
I wonder if you have something draining the battery when left for a while. This sounds electrical to me

Aah wait sorry didn’t see the bit about cranking but not start,

This sounds like air is getting in the fuel system (cracked lines, perished rubber hose etc) that is letting the air in when standing
Click to expand...

I am with you that it electrical, BecUse when it is running it runs fine. Although I will test alternator I don't think this is an issue because when I'm driving the lights don't dim or brughten when sat at lights the remain constant.

If alternator wasn't working lights would be dim when stationary, but brighten up under slight acceleration??
 
If its a diesel they require a good battery charge to turn them over fast enough to fire up, is your new battery man enough for the job, it needs to be fully charged and then see how it performs, just charging it from your jump leads for 30 mins will not put enough charge in the battery for it to stand in the cold overnight and then start the engine, fully charge it with a good battery charger.
 
Scooby22 said:
If its a diesel they require a good battery charge to turn them over fast enough to fire up, is your new battery man enough for the job, it needs to be fully charged and then see how it performs, just charging it from your jump leads for 30 mins will not put enough charge in the battery for it to stand in the cold overnight and then start the engine, fully charge it with a good battery charger.
Click to expand...

I didn't think they would. Of charged enough over leads but it was more. Proof of concept. That it starts without an issue if their is enough power

Battery was bought from euro car parts using the VIN number so I would of assumed they would provide the right one?

What ampage should I be looking at for the battery?
 
Cdathomas1986 said:
Sorry to me the crank is normal, and marries up with the battery losing charge or not charging during use.

I'm going to dig out my multimeter today or buy a new one along with a battery charger (all I have is a ootimate from my motorbike)

Air in the fuel line,. Would this also cause running issues? Or would it be a case of once it is running the pumps are doing the jib but when it stood a perished pipe allows diseal to drain crack a air leak which stops it from starting,
Click to expand...
If it is not starting but cranking fine, then (assuming it is a Tdi and not an EDC one), it is most likely fuel related. The only electrical thing a Tdi needs to run is the stop solenoid on the injector pump which needs 12v to hold open, else it stops the fuel flow (so still fuel technically... ;) ). Check the voltage on this, it is easy to access and the only electrical connection on the injection pump.

Else I would say lift pump (which is cheap £15-20 and 20-30 mins to fit with basic hand tools) and/or an air leak. Air leaks may not cause poor running, but may eventually such as a a miss or stalling. Check the fuel line and the connectors for the lift pump. Might be worth removing and reseating the fuel filter/sedimenter too or replacing.
 
Cdathomas1986 said:
I didn't think they would. Of charged enough over leads but it was more. Proof of concept. That it starts without an issue if their is enough power

Battery was bought from euro car parts using the VIN number so I would of assumed they would provide the right one?

What ampage should I be looking at for the battery?
Click to expand...

Ideally a battery of 100 to 110 AH and around 900 CCA.
 
So here are the details of the battery I got from euro by using the VIN

Capacity70 Ah
CategoriesBatteries
CCA600 A
Guarantee3 Years
Height222 mm
Length266 mm
Terminals1/1
UK Reference No031
Width172 mm

Scooby22 said:
Ideally a battery of 100 to 110 AH and around 900 CCA.
Click to expand...

By you recommendations the battery bought is under rpowered and hasn't got enough ummph to turn the engine over.

I have got a proper battery charger today and got it on fast charge as we speak.

I. Will report back results once charger says battery is full
 
Cdathomas1986 said:
So here are the details of the battery I got from euro by using the VIN

Capacity70 Ah
CategoriesBatteries
CCA600 A
Guarantee3 Years
Height222 mm
Length266 mm
Terminals1/1
UK Reference No031
Width172 mm



By you recommendations the battery bought is under rpowered and hasn't got enough ummph to turn the engine over.

I have got a proper battery charger today and got it on fast charge as we speak.

I. Will report back results once charger says battery is full
Click to expand...

Doubt if that is spinning the engine fast enough for cold starting.

Cranking speed is very important for diesel starting.
 
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