How long till oil level stabilises after oil change

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Definitely seems that way, agreed, I almost always have to dribble a bit out of the sump after an oil change.

Last few oil changes I have just been chucking 5 litres in then checking a few days later.
 
Guys, if you are having problems, drain the oil out when its hot, then remove the filter, allow to drain out totally (a small drip wont matter) , replace the filter, then put back the amount the engine takes (read the manual, I usually put 1/2 a litre or so less) , run for a few moments to fill the filter then recheck, dont add any at this point, you shouldn't have to.

All this ''oil settling'' stuff is totally unnecessary.
 
Guys, if you are having problems, drain the oil out when its hot, then remove the filter, allow to drain out totally (a small drip wont matter) , replace the filter, then put back the amount the engine takes (read the manual, I usually put 1/2 a litre or so less) , run for a few moments to fill the filter then recheck, dont add any at this point, you shouldn't have to.

All this ''oil settling'' stuff is totally unnecessary.

Re-starting with an empty filter! I can hear your bearing shells screaming from here! :eek::D
 
New engine will need the radiator cooler and associated pipes to fill along with the filter.

If it was me, i'd fill to full on dipstick. Run the engine for a a few seconds. let settle for a minute and check and fill as required. Repeating until it settles which it will when the rad and filter are filled.
 
Re-starting with an empty filter! I can hear your bearing shells screaming from here! :eek::D

Most cars these days are paper elements , try filling one of them up with oil.:D Oil pump pressure gets things moving really quickly, it has to, from start to lubing OHC's has to happen very quickly. Straight after an oil change though I tend not to rev an engine, some cars like some VW's can jump a tooth on the chain after a change because the tensioners run on oil pressure, I have never had it happen but Im aware that its a possibility.
 
Most cars these days are paper elements , try filling one of them up with oil.:D Oil pump pressure gets things moving really quickly, it has to, from start to lubing OHC's has to happen very quickly. Straight after an oil change though I tend not to rev an engine, some cars like some VW's can jump a tooth on the chain after a change because the tensioners run on oil pressure, I have never had it happen but Im aware that its a possibility.

In the case of paper elements, or horizontal canister filters, I do as I posted earlier in the thread. Hold the fuel shut off on the IP, or otherwise prevent the engine from starting. Spin over until the oil light goes off. Then start as normal.

A marine diesel can cost anything from 5,000 to 100,000+ quid to buy. You don't want to jeopardise engine life in any way.
 
In the case of paper elements, or horizontal canister filters, I do as I posted earlier in the thread. Hold the fuel shut off on the IP, or otherwise prevent the engine from starting. Spin over until the oil light goes off. Then start as normal.

A marine diesel can cost anything from 5,000 to 100,000+ quid to buy. You don't want to jeopardise engine life in any way.

The difference between you spinning it and the starter spinning it wouldn't really be an issue, on a car engine anyway, you would be surprised how much pressure an oil pump puts out, it can empty an engine in seconds.Do you spin them up manually?
 
The difference between you spinning it and the starter spinning it wouldn't really be an issue, on a car engine anyway, you would be surprised how much pressure an oil pump puts out, it can empty an engine in seconds.Do you spin them up manually?

Old Listers and stuff yes. Engines on my present boat, just turn em on the starter.

Oil pump produces good pressure, but still takes a second or so to fill a filter.
 
If its full.

Drain old **** out..

Measure it..

Put in what came out, same quantity etc etc.


My TD5's oil is still golden after a few thousand miles, 190k weirdly clean inside.

My V8 P38's insides are mank :confused::D

Oil can take ages to "level" as in reality it never really settles, especially if it's driven daily.

Just top off on the stick till it's on or near Max./


easy eh? ;)
 
If its full.

Drain old **** out..

Measure it..

Put in what came out, same quantity etc etc.


My TD5's oil is still golden after a few thousand miles, 190k weirdly clean inside.

My V8 P38's insides are mank :confused::D

Oil can take ages to "level" as in reality it never really settles, especially if it's driven daily.

Just top off on the stick till it's on or near Max./


easy eh? ;)

Yes I know all of this but thanks captain obvious that's not what i was asking.
 
Re-starting with an empty filter! I can hear your bearing shells screaming from here! :eek::D

To be fair thats exactly what I do, lots of modern vehicles with them upside down element only filters thats all you can do.
Most of the trucks are the same.
 
I guess they sell more engines if they put them upside down! :(

That is what I used to think, but never seen any issues at all.
Lots of marine engines seem to have their metal canister oil filters upside down.
 
That is what I used to think, but never seen any issues at all.
Lots of marine engines seem to have their metal canister oil filters upside down.

Mine is horizontal. I fit it dry, and then spin the engine on the starter until the oil light goes out.
I would guess that the reason empty filters at start up don't cause damage is that modern oils are so good, the residual oil on the shells lubricates enough until the new stuff goes round.

My Grandfather would still be turning in his grave at the thought, though! :D
 
Those upside down ones must make a mess when you change them :confused:

Yep they do, cut down ice cream tubs to the rescue.
I think as most pleasure marine engines started life as car/truck engines, which have the filters hanging downwards the only way to get them into the boat is to fit the filters arse about face.
 
Yep they do, cut down ice cream tubs to the rescue.
I think as most pleasure marine engines started life as car/truck engines, which have the filters hanging downwards the only way to get them into the boat is to fit the filters arse about face.

I didn't realise we were talking tiddlers! :D

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Some engine do use more oil when running in. BMW engines are quite alarming the amount of oil used in the first few thousand miles and I remember the old Leyland metro engine needed checking daily for the first 2 or 3k

Col
 
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