Series 2 2 things I need advice on

Hi all

Advice is appreciated!

Item 1)

Took the series out for a blast over the seafront, had a few lurches when I got up to about 25mph in 3rd. Kept driving and at a junction she cut out on me. Started up again perfectly. I got it home with a few more lurches.

I’ve got it running in the driveway and on idle I can hear what sounds like a drop out in the sound at idle every now and then. Like a misfire.

I’ll clean my somewhat new plugs and see if that’s helps but i would like to know if there’s anything else you can recommend I check or to look out for.

Item 2)

I’m still starting it on the push button solenoid in the engine bay or the starting handle. I’d like to start using the key again properly. I clearly have ignition since I can start it on the button. However turning the key to the last position to switch it on doesn’t do anything at all. Not a sound. Could this be a simple loose connection behind the dash?

Cheers all

How fresh is the fuel?

Beneagles said:

How fresh is the fuel?

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Couple weeks or so


It’s had ancient fuel before and was fine. Sounds more like a misfire on a cylinder to me.

I will say it was wet in the engine bay when I checked. Like everything was wet due to weather if that’s a factor

I've got sunday day time free so would just like a little list of things to check or try so i can crack on with it.

Could be a bit of crud in a carb jet, do you run a petrol filter ?
Trick for a quick fix, remove air cleaner and turn up the revs some and then slap your palm on the carb inlet, extra suction can pull tiny bits partly blocking jet out.

It could be a loose wire, or the ignition switch itself could be broken, try running a live from the white wire, when the ignition is turned on, to the white wire with red trace. Try cleaning up the terminals and make sure the connections are tight.

Put a 12v lead from teh batt to the solenoid small spade (the one with the ign lead) and it should start, if it does you know the problem is likely switch or connection behind the dash

The lurching could just be that the electrics have become damp, dry everything, ecpecially the inside of the dizzy cap. It could also be the condenser breaking down.

Col

Update, i took the distributor cap off, blasted it with a hairdryer on warm until it was all nice and dry. Replaced it and fired her up. Sounds okay to me, can anyone notice a problem from the sound?? It ran nicely on choke for a min or two, then no choke idled beautifully for 5 minutes until a random dip and nearly cut.

Made use of my degree, here's a recording...



Will take a look at the ignition in a mo.

Trench Rat said:

Update, i took the distributor cap off, blasted it with a hairdryer on warm until it was all nice and dry. Replaced it and fired her up. Sounds okay to me, can anyone notice a problem from the sound?? It ran nicely on choke for a min or two, then no choke idled beautifully for 5 minutes until a random dip and nearly cut.

Made use of my degree, here's a recording...



Will take a look at the ignition in a mo.

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Sounds pretty smooth, but I would consider that quite a high idle speed for a Series, you should be able to adjust it down a bit on the carb.

Turboman said:

Sounds pretty smooth, but I would consider that quite a high idle speed for a Series, you should be able to adjust it down a bit on the carb.

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Okay will do, how much would you recommend? A mechanic i know who restores classics set the idle speed for me. Originally it was far too low.

EDIT:

Also what would the cons be of the higher idle speed?

Trench Rat said:

Okay will do, how much would you recommend? A mechanic i know who restores classics set the idle speed for me. Originally it was far too low.

EDIT:

Also what would the cons be of the higher idle speed?

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About 600rpm. Cons are increased fuel consumption, and looking like someone who can't set up an engine properly.

Turboman said:

About 600rpm. Cons are increased fuel consumption, and looking like someone who can't set up an engine properly.

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Pretty sure it depends which carb it's running. Later carbs where recommended to run higher idle. Iirc the figures vary from around 500 to 800rpm over the lifespan of the petrol 2 1/4.

blue beasty said:

Pretty sure it depends which carb it's running. Later carbs where recommended to run higher idle. Iirc the figures vary from around 500 to 800rpm over the lifespan of the petrol 2 1/4.

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not sure which carb but it's a 1968 2a

Trench Rat said:

not sure which carb but it's a 1968 2a

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In that case, it should be about 800 rpm, which is lower than in your recording. I should think a Zenith carb on that, although many have been changed for Weber, earlier 2 and 2a have Solex.

Turboman said:

In that case, it should be about 800 rpm, which is lower than in your recording. I should think a Zenith carb on that, although many have been changed for Weber, earlier 2 and 2a have Solex.

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Changes were made to the Zenith 36IV over the lifespan of the 2 1/4 injun, summink to do with emissions control which results in different idle rpm.

Though you're correct that none are recommended to run above 800. Early ones are as low as 500 I believe but a later carb won't idle happily at that.

blue beasty said:

Changes were made to the Zenith 36IV over the lifespan of the 2 1/4 injun, summink to do with emissions control which results in different idle rpm.

Though you're correct that none are recommended to run above 800. Early ones are as low as 500 I believe but a later carb won't idle happily at that.

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Quite right. Solex will go really low. Sadly, not all Zenith carbs were created equal. The ones that were fitted at the factory are quite good, some pattern replacements are dreadful.

Turboman said:

Quite right. Solex will go really low. Sadly, not all Zenith carbs were created equal. The ones that were fitted at the factory are quite good, some pattern replacements are dreadful.

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Wear and tear and pattern copies are another issue.

The internal design of the 36IV as fitted in the factory changed over time.

If you are going to set the tickover speed, make sure the air mixture screw is set properly before fiddling with the throttle stop. I still suspect the condenser, I always suspect condensers on points ignition, never buy the really cheap ones.

Col

Colthebrummie said:

If you are going to set the tickover speed, make sure the air mixture screw is set properly before fiddling with the throttle stop. I still suspect the condenser, I always suspect condensers on points ignition, never buy the really cheap ones.

Col

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I recently replaced the points and condenser. Not a super cheap one either. Starts fine, i guess i just need to tweak the tickover speed. Starts nicely in the cold though