Full size Intercooler AFTER remap, help please!!

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Chalky.

Well-Known Member
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4,776
Location
Mid Wales
Hi all! I must of had my defender remapped by Mike at Dynachip for a good four years now. It goes well, and has had a dramatic effect on pulling heavy trailers etc.
I fitted a straight through exhaust a while back and this dropped the torque curve a fair amount which was awesome, however I was doing some high mileage and couldn't cope with the drone, so switched back to the old silencer.
However I now do small miles and lots more greenlaning, virtually every weekend really. I've noticed that since the remap it always has a slight puff of diesel black sooty smoke when you boot it, or it's under full load which suggests air/fuel ratio being incorrect.

Would I notice much of a difference if I fitted a full size intercooler now? If so which make? It's fairly confusing and very expensive to go with something that might not be needed... Can anyone share their thoughts... Many thanks.
 
I was in the exact same position with my 90. Bought a Britpart one fitted it, no smoke at all after that.

It was cheap enough and seemed to last well enough.

Would be worth having the map tweaked after it though
 
I was in the exact same position with my 90. Bought a Britpart one fitted it, no smoke at all after that.

It was cheap enough and seemed to last well enough.

Would be worth having the map tweaked after it though

My map is a generic map, for a standard motor, basically as much torque as I could have without adverse engine reliability.

Do you think the britpart one is worth getting then? I wasn't sure weather to go the whole hog and get a 'proper' remap done and fit a decent IC before hand? What do you reckon? I don't want to take the engine away from pretty much standard, ie, standard turbo and boost pressure etc, would appreciate your thoughts as I know you've got experience in this department! :)
 
Full size intercooler isn’t going to give any noticeable power gains but it will reduce the inlet temperatures well but might increase turbo lag slightly which could be sorted in a map
 
My map is a generic map, for a standard motor, basically as much torque as I could have without adverse engine reliability.

Do you think the britpart one is worth getting then? I wasn't sure weather to go the whole hog and get a 'proper' remap done and fit a decent IC before hand? What do you reckon? I don't want to take the engine away from pretty much standard, ie, standard turbo and boost pressure etc, would appreciate your thoughts as I know you've got experience in this department! :)

It worked well enough on my 90. Though if you want to go for a nice and solid set up speak to Gareth at Empire. Reasonable prices and a lovely bloke.

Allisport, Serck, Airtec few others out there that make great intercoolers.

To get it set up properly it needs a tailored map with the IC also worth desrestricing the air intake.
 
Full size intercooler isn’t going to give any noticeable power gains but it will reduce the inlet temperatures well but might increase turbo lag slightly which could be sorted in a map

How much increase in lag would you expect? Noticeable? With the straight pipe I noticed throttle response was improved and torque as the turbo seemed to spool up quicker! I'm don't drive it hard but not keen if it does exacerbate lag!
 
if it reduces temp , it increases air density, so it means more fuel can be burnt efficiently rather than making black smoke , I would have thought.

Cheers

So basically I'm slightly over fueling at the moment under load, with the increased air density an uprated IC would supply, my fuel to air balance will be better, meaning no, or at least, less, unburnt fuel exiting the exhaust, and no need for another remap?

I have heard with generic maps like Mike (dynachip) supplies, that things like inlet sensors etc take into account more air flow (larger IC) and adjust accordingly (without the need for extra tuning).
 
So basically I'm slightly over fueling at the moment under load, with the increased air density an uprated IC would supply, my fuel to air balance will be better, meaning no, or at least, less, unburnt fuel exiting the exhaust, and no need for another remap?

I have heard with generic maps like Mike (dynachip) supplies, that things like inlet sensors etc take into account more air flow (larger IC) and adjust accordingly (without the need for extra tuning).
your current cooler could be dirty on the inside and just needs a good washing. a good radiator shop should be able to do the wash and clean, at least they do here
 
your current cooler could be dirty on the inside and just needs a good washing. a good radiator shop should be able to do the wash and clean, at least they do here

It isn't, but good call. I've flushed with paraffin every 20k and when I replaced the rad, so it's as clean and free as a whistle.

Don't get me wrong, it runs perfectly, just wouldn't mind getting rid of that excess smoke when I do boot it, if an up rated IC will do this and I can feel a slight performance gain, I'll do it. I'm just bei g fussy really... :)
 
If the depression control valve is old replace that first and shorten the wastegate rod as to let 11 threads out from the locknut

Thanks for that! Replaced the valve about 6 months ago, but will certainly check how many threads I have showing! Thanks! :)
 
If the depression control valve is old replace that first and shorten the wastegate rod as to let 11 threads out from the locknut

I've just braved the dark and rain to find that I actually have 12.5/13 threads showing!
Does shortening it bring the turbo in sooner down the rev range? I'll adjust to 11 threads tomorrow morning! :)
 
I've just braved the dark and rain to find that I actually have 12.5/13 threads showing!
Does shortening it bring the turbo in sooner down the rev range? I'll adjust to 11 threads tomorrow morning! :)
yes, your's is on factory setting then, at 11 or even 10 threads left will give it a bit more low end boost, you cantry to 10 and if it goes to overboost back up a bit
 
yes, your's is on factory setting then, at 11 or even 10 threads left will give it a bit more low end boost, you cantry to 10 and if it goes to overboost back up a bit

Thank you very much for the info/help! Looking forward to seeing what difference this will make!

Out of interest, when I had the straight through pipe on, if I really put my foot down hard up an incredibly steep road and dragged the gear change out in fourth, sometimes, before I changed into fifth I'd loose all acceleration and not be able to accelerate past 50mph, turning the ignition on and off would reset this. (was this overboost, limp mode)?
Strangely, with the original exhaust back on no matter how long I drag out the gear changes it never goes into limp mode (overboost), any thoughts on this just out of curiosity?

Edit* I should add I don't drive like that very often, but it was quite disconcerting mid overtake!! :)
 
f I really put my foot down hard up an incredibly steep road and dragged the gear change out in fourth, sometimes, before I changed into fifth I'd loose all acceleration and not be able to accelerate past 50mph, turning the ignition on and off would reset this. (was this overboost,
yes, that seems like overboost or the so called "MAF cut out" (this is valid only for Eu3 management)
 
yes, that seems like overboost or the so called "MAF cut out" (this is valid only for Eu3 management)

My defender is a 99 model but when I had it remapped we found that the ecu had been replaced with an 04 one, would this be the eu3 management? Thanks again
 
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