will face lift front end fit pre face lift models

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Ok, that’s a fair comment and point. A separate pull from the batt would be more efficient via a relay. Point well made.
Tbh, I’m contemplating just switching the switch gear over and seeing if that does do the job. It’s on the donor vehicle I have access too. So available. thanks again lads
 
from comparison of circuits the switch is the only difference.

Which makes perfect sense. For the pre-facelift the dip is extinguished when main is on. For the facelift, the dip remains on when main is on.

To me the wiring looked identical too, so the only difference must be the switch.
 
Aye that it be. Relays, diodes, all have their place but even the fuse discrimination looks fine for the original wiring arrangement. If you haven''t got a later switch a simple link as mentioned will cause the changeover function to be inhibited. It is the same as pulling back the switch on the early cars, dip and beam light together. No other components required.
 
Aye that it be. Relays, diodes, all have their place but even the fuse discrimination looks fine for the original wiring arrangement. If you haven''t got a later switch a simple link as mentioned will cause the changeover function to be inhibited. It is the same as pulling back the switch on the early cars, dip and beam light together. No other components required.

yes, I’ve noted that both lights stay on while holding the lever back.
I’ll change the switch gear as first port of call. And like u say, connect to two pins if needs be to stop dip disengaging. many thanks gents.
mill let u all know when I’ve done it in a few weeks.
 
It may not be a different switch, but rather a different connector in the switch.

I learnt something the other day from those clever boys at Bad Obsession Motorosport and their Project Binky build on YouTube. I'm an avid follower. The relevant point to all this is that Rover used the same light switch assembly irrespective of whether the dip stays on with the beam - the difference is that you simply change the output pin from the switch itself.

identical_connectors2.jpg


Check the latest "Project Binky" on YouTube - you'll see what I mean. They're using the simpler stalk arrangement from the Rover 25/ MGZR - but these switches are essentially interchangeable with the ones used on the Rover 800/ Freelander FL1. Chances are all you'll need to do is pop out the spade connector from the loom plug and move it to the appropriate vacant slot in the plug and hey presto, full beam+dipped at the same time! :)
 
I’ve done it with a diode before. I fitted it by the switch so it was pre relay and low current. That’s all that’s needed. I have also installed a relay in the same place to switch the dip back on as main comes on. No change over was evident. It’s more complicated but proved more reliable. Never tried facelift switch gear though.
 
Just a thought....if you wired the pre-facelift to have dip and beam on together (for full beam) would the heat cause a problem in the headlight unit?
As the dark nights creep in it is a thought.
While my TD4 is having its 'makeover' I'll be fitting spotlamps too.
 
Back
Top