Freelander 1 Retrofitting heated seat(s)

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They work!!!! Finished it off today. If anyone's interested in doing the job on a car that doesn't have the wiring (mine's a 2001 FL1 TD4):

1. Take the fuse box out. Just unplug all the connectors from it - they're idiot-proofed so you can't get the wrong one in the wrong hole.
2. On the back of the fuse box, the sockets for the various connectors are labeled (there's moulded writing next to each of them).
3. One of them, with three 6mm spade terminals in it, is labeled C-584. The mating plug should have an empty hole in it (i.e. only two wires coming out). You can check with a multimeter for continuity between one of the pins for Fuse 29 and Pin 1 on that socket, just to double check.
4. Crimp a female spade terminal on to some heavy brown wire (I used 14 AWG) and shove it into the back of the plug.
5. Refit the fuse box and run the wire behind the dash and through to the centre console. You'll need to split it into two and insulate appropriately so that you get one brown wire going to each heated seat switch.
6. Run a pair of heavy wires from each seat heater connector, under the carpet and along the top of the transmission tunnel, either side of the gear lever. The feed wire to the right hand seat heater red wire is blue and pink in the original harnes. The one to the red wire on the left hand seat is blue and grey. The wires to the black wire on each seat heater are also black. These go to earth. There's an earthing stud on the top of the transmission tunnel right under the bottom of the dash. I just crimped both black wires into a ring terminal and trapped the ring terminal under the nut on that stud.
7. If you've bought a pair of heated seat switches and their associated connectors, join the heavy blue/pink or blue/grey wires to their appropriate wire on each connector and do the same with the browns.
8. Each switch connector also has a very thin red and orange wire. These go to a live feed when the lights are on (I piggybacked off the light that illuminates the cigarette lighter socket).
9. Finally, each connector has a very thin black wire. These are earths for the switch illumination and can go to the same earth stud as the seat earth wires.
10. The CCU was present on my car and seems to just work with the seat heaters.
 
Great "how to" there - brilliant! If I ever bother fitting heated seats to mine, I'll be referring back to this (it sounds simple enough - nice one!)

One question though: isn't the instrument lighting cable usually red with a black tracer?
 
Great "how to" there - brilliant! If I ever bother fitting heated seats to mine, I'll be referring back to this (it sounds simple enough - nice one!)

One question though: isn't the instrument lighting cable usually red with a black tracer?

Mine were definitely red/orange. My Haynes manual has them listed as red-orange too. (Not that I could find any red-orange wire, so I just ended up using red).
 
Thanks - that's great.

PS I'd love to find a source of affordable colour-coded cables - I can find the right colour combinations on the bay of fleas, but the prices seem exorbitant :(
 
Thought so - that would require a complete change of all seats for mine. And my fabric seats remain in "ok" condition. Plus they don't feel cold when you first get in the car during the winter!
 
Thought so - that would require a complete change of all seats for mine. And my fabric seats remain in "ok" condition. Plus they don't feel cold when you first get in the car during the winter!

The heater pads are available separately, so I can't see why you couldn't put them under cloth seat covers. ;)
 
Yup, thought of that too - but I can imagine the cloth disintegrating if I took it off :eek:
I've recently "skinned" a pair of front seats. The outer fabric is very fragile but there's a backing layer between it and the foam, which comes off with the fabric and that is very tough indeed. That said, it's quite an involved job. There are a couple of rivets in the backrest that you need to drill out. There are also a great many "hog rings" holding various parts of the underside of the fabric on to steel bars moulded into the foam to give them their shape. If you were re-fitting the covers, you'd need a set of hog ring pliers and several dozen hog rings.
 
I've heard folks using cable ties instead of hog rings, but yes, it is the "involvement" of the process that's putting me off!
 
I've heard folks using cable ties instead of hog rings, but yes, it is the "involvement" of the process that's putting me off!

I've taken seat covers off so they can be washed in a washing machine before now. Seats aren't that difficult to take apart, as they're designed and manufactured for quick hand assembly. ;)
 
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