L322 Compressor woes

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New to me. Bought from a friend. Dilemma. Two unrelated issues, related because they were worked on by same independent local 4x4 shop here in durham.
1. Ac compressor replaced 500 miles ago for $1k. Blowing hot air now. Independent says there’s a leak. Put dye and leak fix(!) in and told me to come back. Complaint number 1 - why did I spend 1k on compressor when there’s a leak somewhere. I think that could/should have been caught when he pulled a vacuum but maybe not.
2. The eas compressor was replaced in dec 2018 by same independent with Arnott compressor about 3,000 miles ago. The ‘normal ride height’ error came up on the dash and I realised there was a leak somewhere because I could hear it hissing after I parked. I bought a gap iid tool and messed around with the suspension and stupidly bottomed it out by releasing all the air. I was scheduled to talk to shop about leak and error message and I took it in to have a look. I told the independent that it had been holding at the right height for about 2 weeks prior to that morning when I had released the air messing around with the gap iid. He lifted it in the air and came back to tell me that I had a bad leak in the front airbags and would need both struts replaced at $1700. On top of that, because there was a leak on the airbags, he would not warranty the 3,000 mile old compressor. So add another $1000 for a new compressor.
I told him again that the air had been holding great for the last 2 weeks that the Error message had been showing and the suspension had been inactive and that it was only out of air because I let it out that morning. He absolutely wouldn’t warranty the compressor.
So I went home and jacked up all 4 corners. I had it in the air and somehow, I really don’t know how, the compressor started to pump. So now I could hear the hissing again and I determined to track it down. It was a pin hole in the tank on the passenger side running underneath the running board. I let the pressure drop and sanded around the hole, jbwelded a small piece of shaped galvanized and closed up the hole (temporarily). It fixed that leak fine and I lowered the car and it filled with air and was driving absolutely fine. Holding air, compressor working great and drove around another couple of weeks. Then an hdc fault came up and then the normal ride height again. Now when I start up, I can hear 3 digital attempts to call the compressor (at the compressor, 3 high pitched sounds), the compressor doesn’t start and the suspension error message comes up.
My dilemma is, do I take it back to the shop. I feel like they misdiagnosed the problem and that maybe they should reconsider making good on the warranty on the compressor? The leak in the tank only lasted about a week (that I could hear) and I would have thought the compressor wouldn’t be over taxed by that?
Anyway I’ve got to get it fixed. I’ve attached the gap iid fault report. If anyone has had similar issues, please lend a hand. My first ever car was a county 110, blue with a full length roof rack and a rear ladder. With the rover 3.5 liter petrol engine. That thing was great and pretty simple. This rr is not and I’m having trouble pinpointing the problem.

L322 - Range Rover 2008
Vehicle scanned on 04-10-2019 16:33
Using IIDTool BT V4.0 B2691
ACM-Audio System
  • U1A03-62 (68) Vehicle configuration parameter - Algorithm based failure - signal compare failure
    ( on 04-10-2019 16:19:02 at 91982 mi )
ATCM-Terrain Response
  • U0401-94 (2C) Invalid data received from engine control module/powertrain control module - Component failure - unexpected operation
    ( on 04-10-2019 16:05:18 at 91982 mi )
  • U0402-94 (2C) Invalid data received from transmission control module - Component failure - unexpected operation
    ( on 04-10-2019 16:05:18 at 91982 mi )
  • U0416-94 (2C) Invalid data received from vehicle dynamics control module - Component failure - unexpected operation
    ( on 04-10-2019 16:05:18 at 91982 mi )
  • U0403-94 (2C) Invalid data received from transfer case control module - Component failure - unexpected operation
    ( on 04-10-2019 16:05:18 at 91982 mi )
  • U0421-94 (2C) Invalid data received from ride level control module - Component failure - unexpected operation
    ( on 04-10-2019 16:03:46 at 91982 mi )
FLM-HeadLight
  • U1A38-87 (AF) Communication malfunction of left actuator - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
    ( on 22-09-2019 13:45:48 at 91982 mi )
  • U1A39-87 (AF) Communication malfunction of right actuator - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
    ( on 22-09-2019 13:45:48 at 91982 mi )
IPC-Instrument Pack
  • U0248-87 (2F) Lost communication with remote driver utility module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
    ( on 04-10-2019 16:03:51 at 91982 mi )
RLM-Suspension
  • C1131-92 (2E) Air supply - Component failure - performance or incorrect operation
    ( on 04-10-2019 16:27:47 at 91982 mi )
SCME-DrivSeat Climate
  • U2106-38 (2C) Switchpack signal B - Frequency modulation/pulse width modulation failure - signal frequency is incorrect
    ( on 04-10-2019 16:19:10 at 91982 mi )
VIM-Immobilizer
  • B1B01-87 (2C) Key transponder - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
    ( on 04-10-2019 16:04:42 at 91982 mi )
 
+1 I wouldn’t go back either.

Now you have a record of faults, try clearing them and check again see what comes straight back.
Check for water ingress, rear boot cubby, wheel well, damp front carpets?
I take it you sprayed all the bags and lines, with soapy water in normal and high to check them to.
There is a front manifold and a rear manifold as well as the one at the compressor. If you still have the plastic cap on the drier the are know to crack, so soapy spray that too while compressor running.

The ht changes uses air from the tank, makes it quicker as air is stored at higher pressure. So if your stored side is leaking the compressor works even harder.

Kits are available to rebuild compressor and not a bad job to do if needed.
I take it your battery is tip top?

These are things any DIYer can do:)

Good luck and find another mechanic.
J
 
What did they test it with a standard multi meter or a proper load drop tester .
12.6 volts at rest is a good battery.
 
Check what is draining your battery. Most L322s have one or the other drain (alarm, tailgate, bloody strange radios etc) so at 12.2 the system turns off everything that isn't vital. Hence this is what you find.
To the compressor.
Ignore faults. An L322 always has about 15.
Tell us what your heights are and what is the compressor pressure. Check the calibration with a tape measure.
 
Plus 1 to that.

Agree we had a P38 that had sat for years... charged battery didn't get much life in it put big starter pack on it nothing...new battery on car new battery in fob... left for an hour or so started first turn of the starter and after replacing fuse 14 suspension worked perfectly...a few fault codes flagged up but we're all resets abs/windows/sunroof etc...
 
RR need a good battery. ;)

A what many think of as a "draw" in reality is a battery shorting to itself.

Draining and giving the illusion of an Leccy fault.

Get a nice big ***** on it.
 
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