Project Rusty.

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How heavy is that back door on your own mate?! I was lifting it with two arms and a knee and did a balancing act to get a couple spins of thread on bolts to take the weight :D p.s it’s harder to lift back on on your own but easier than lifting off a fender tub o_O
 
How heavy is that back door on your own mate?! I was lifting it with two arms and a knee and did a balancing act to get a couple spins of thread on bolts to take the weight :D p.s it’s harder to lift back on on your own but easier than lifting off a fender tub o_O

I just had hold of it with the two hands, it's more awkward than heavy really as it's just a big slab of steel and glass.

Getting it back on will be easier for sure and at least it will be going back on to something secure.
 
Christ on a bike this thing is getting the best of me today.

Been at it almost the whole day apart from a brew break here and there and a spot of lunch which lasted all of 5 minutes.

Pics to follow laters by by jove has this been a mission.

Oh, and any recommendations for a lotion that heals welding burns?
 
Wasn't that fun :(

What a day. It hates me, I already know that we are on shaky grounds but by jove has this thing tested my patience :mad::mad::mad:

But hey, what am I gonna do, just keeping welding away lol

Bit of repair to the bottom of the passenger side C post.

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Redded it all up too.

Finished the whole of the side now with the last bit round the base of the filler pipe pressing and there was a small piece of the wheel tub outstanding but that was all done too, all primed ready for seam sealer and that's done now too.

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And well, fook my old boots, it was awful drilling out all the spot welds on that door post, terrible job to do and I had to get creative as the spot weld drill wasn't long enough to go down the side of the post without the drill chuck fouling it :rolleyes:

Cue the use of a 7mm socket on a 1/4 drive extension bar, worked out very well, aside from having to duct tape the spot weld drill bit into the socket lol :)

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Started off a bit ropey.

Used a dot punch to locate the centres on the spot weld and an old wood chisel to separate the panels once drilled though.

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Start on the worst bit and work my way round. the whole panel.

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Just keep going at the 50+ spot welds and get it pried off.

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It was bad, real bad, the rear body cross member is in awful shape and pretty rotten where the bottom of this panel sits and seems to have been a horrific water and muck trap and it will have been compounded as this is the back of the vehicle and will have suffered with the worst of the water spray and will have stayed damp the longest.

This vehicle was Dinitrol treated very early on in it's life but it probably hadn't seen a reapplication in a decades but you can easily see the wax film inside the door post but I think they may have missed the door post in betwixt the rear quarter panel.

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Now the bit that needs a bit more attention.

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So I will get to plug away a bit more, all the spots that were drilled out need to be ground off and this will need to be addressed before I can get the new second hand panel fitted up.

Bit more work in the week and a splash of paint on the bits that are finished.

Getting closer to the finish.........
 
Do remember that this thing is 28yrs old and has been abused hard off road :D

Not to mention it was first registered in Belgium and they love to salt their roads as much as they love mayonnaise on their fries :(:(:(

Pfft.

18yrs and it used to launch boats!!

And offroad ;)

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;)

It's a shame they weren't waxoyled from factory ;)
 
Pfft.

18yrs and it used to launch boats!!

And offroad ;)

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;)

It's a shame they weren't waxoyled from factory ;)

BAE owned LR back then and used better materials hence why the D2 bodies are better, not sure what happened to their chassis but they are the weak point of a D2.

Miraculously the P38 was the quietest success story of LR in terms of producing relatively problem free vehicles in the modern electronic era, yes there are some horror stories but only as they approach the 10yr mark and beyond they became very sketchy but today some of them barely make it off the forecourt without lamps illuminating :(
 
BAE owned LR back then and used better materials hence why the D2 bodies are better, not sure what happened to their chassis but they are the weak point of a D2.

Miraculously the P38 was the quietest success story of LR in terms of producing relatively problem free vehicles in the modern electronic era, yes there are some horror stories but only as they approach the 10yr mark and beyond they became very sketchy but today some of them barely make it off the forecourt without lamps illuminating :(

'Tis a toss up between rot busting or swearing with a nanocom in hand..

TBF coz i is a lazy **** the NANOCOM option appeals ;)

Wouldn't trade it for the world though the P38 is a lovely drive ;) simple to fix too ;)

The D2 is showing signs of the body rotting.

Inner arches and sills are starting to go on a few models i've seen.
 
You are doing a superb job, DD. I know the quality of what you do. Keep up the good work. It will be worth it.

Better get me skates on though, it's taking way too long now :(

Been looking for one of those power files.

Found them on the Bay and Hamazone for very good prices.

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Was thinking electric over air as I will be able to use it indoors if the needs arise and 240V mains seems to be 1/4 the price of cordless variants by the time you put a battery and charger into the equation :eek:

What are your thoughts?
 
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