Brake Disc replacement on my 90.

View attachment 180839 View attachment 180840 View attachment 180841 Morning,
I finally got round to having a go at starting to remove my worn discs on the Landy at the weekend.
I'd watched a few youtube video's and got all the bits I needed for the job including a new hub-nut socket and a new deep 12-point socket set, had a tea and made a start.
Given I'm going through all the trouble of taking the disc's off I might as well change the wheel bearings as well because I have no idea when they may have been done in the past. A new set of Timken bearing sets was also ready.
Taking everything apart was fiddle but not particularly hard, and gave a good opportunity to clean things up a bit while they are off.
The brake caliper was particularly difficult to get off because I couldn't get the pads out, but eventually I persuaded it off.
I knew the brake discs were pretty scored from feeling them but seeing the condition of the inside of the disc once it was off was terrible and glad I'm doing the job.

Once all the pieces were separated I cleaned them up and then started on the rebuilding.
I used a drift to carefully remove the bearings seat from the hub which was pretty easy.
new disc to hub with the right torque settings and a good dollop of Loctite all done , I then started on driving in the new bearings seats, again using a drift to carefully seat them in place fully. then greased up the new bearings well and good and dropped them in and did both sides and fitting the inner seal too.
So all ready to go back on to the 90 and do it all back up.
Then to try and get the brake calipers back on with the new set of pads I've bought.

Justin-JP said:

Once all the pieces were separated I cleaned them up and then started on the rebuilding.
I used a drift to carefully remove the bearings seat from the hub which was pretty easy.
new disc to hub with the right torque settings and a good dollop of Loctite all done , I then started on driving in the new bearings seats, again using a drift to carefully seat them in place fully. then greased up the new bearings well and good and dropped them in and did both sides and fitting the inner seal too.
So all ready to go back on to the 90 and do it all back up.
Then to try and get the brake calipers back on with the new set of pads I've bought.

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i really wouldnt recommend fitting bearing races with a drift,use a press or a dolly to drive then in to spread the load,an old old race with a slot cut through it makes a cheap easy tool

jamesmartin said:

i really wouldnt recommend fitting bearing races with a drift,use a press or a dolly to drive then in to spread the load,an old old race with a slot cut through it makes a cheap easy tool

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Noted, trying to find a driver at the moment because it'll also just be a lot quicker. But need to check on the diameter of the race for a 2005 TD5.

I made a little more progress at the weekend with replacing the discs on the Landy, this time moving to the rear to get those started and see what state the rear brake capilers were in. Managed to get the back end up on axel stands so now it's not going anywhere.
The rear disc's weren't quite as corroded as the fronts, but still pretty bad, and the same with the caliper pistons which were quite well corroded.

Lovely old wooden framed building! Suffolk?

Justin-JP said:

Noted, trying to find a driver at the moment because it'll also just be a lot quicker. But need to check on the diameter of the race for a 2005 TD5.

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You can use the old races, just grind em down a bit. I used a drift, gently gently and I was fine. Going at it like a cave man wouldn't be a good thing !

jamesmartin said:

an old old race with a slot cut through it makes a cheap easy tool

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+1 - Such a good idea .... Works on all vehicle's too

Sounds like you're doing great, drifts are usually fine as they are softer steel than the bearing race. Using another bearing race as a a dolly is ok if using a press but don't use one id striking it with a hammer, hardened steel against hardened steel can cause either of the races to fracture and shatter.
The front discs were certainly well past their use by date.

Hardened steel against hardened steel shattering just does not happen with modern steel [ post WW2 stuff ]

Interceptorxj said:

Sounds like you're doing great, drifts are usually fine as they are softer steel than the bearing race. Using another bearing race as a a dolly is ok if using a press but don't use one id striking it with a hammer, hardened steel against hardened steel can cause either of the races to fracture and shatter.
The front discs were certainly well past their use by date.

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i wouldnt risk a drift unless its brass etc it doesnt harm the hardened out casing but can the softer center, try twisting the inner in an outer race that been punched in youll feel its a bit notchy

Kentish Threshing Barn, circa 1741.

And I went with a cut old race to use as a tool to press the new races in.

Question, brake copper pipe to brake caliper brass fittings, are they going to be the 11mm I think, or is it come sneaky imperial size.?

It looks a bit TD5-ish to me, and mine are 11mm.

Justin-JP said:

Kentish Threshing Barn, circa 1741.

And I went with a cut old race to use as a tool to press the new races in.

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That late? I'd have guessed earlier from the timberwork. I've seen vernacular architecture dated to the 1650s that looks more modern!

Finally made some more progress on the brake caliper refurb and have started to fit them back on.
As I mentioned elsewhere I decided to paint them red to really make them stand out.
New pads and pins all slipped in nicely too.

More progress at the weekend with the read brake caliper's going on. Very pleased with myself.
No problems at all with the brake set up, though I need a replacement brake fluid pipe from under the rear tub for the passenger side rear, before I can connect it up.

All buttoned up and back on the ground at last, before the next jobs.