Mine appears to read high, not sure if this is a sign of failure or not
Disco 2 thinking of a D2
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Mine appears to read high, not sure if this is a sign of failure or not
One comment regarding on MAF readings. Do not rely too much on it.
I had a new italian made MAF with very good values, but was not satisfied with the performance. Changed to genuine and with the same readings performance become better.
Again, it is just my case, some people has different opinion and lucky with cheap MAFs. Up to you if you spend much more for genuine but at least you will know that your MAF is OK and if you still have performance issue you have to look for other cause.
I had a new italian made MAF with very good values, but was not satisfied with the performance. Changed to genuine and with the same readings performance become better.
Again, it is just my case, some people has different opinion and lucky with cheap MAFs. Up to you if you spend much more for genuine but at least you will know that your MAF is OK and if you still have performance issue you have to look for other cause.
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Quite. A bloke I know who builds Landies for people who race them says that MAFs are so weird that they try a whole range of MAFs on their trucks until they find one that goes best with it. So I understand what you are saying. My experience back it up a bit too, i.e. one new one, no different another new one, much better.
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Officially, as in as per handbook, lock up comes in at 56mph, which is well over the new limit. OK, so you drive to about 90 kph, let go and it will lock up, then you let it drop to 80 kph and if you are lucky it will stay locked up, but the slightest acceleration, or pressure on the accelerator to keep the speed at the limit, even with cruise, and it drops back into the gear below, i.e. out of lock up, and you have to do the whole malarkey again. N roads in France are often quite twisty etc and so keeping it into lock up is tough enough at 90 kph the old limit. It is nigh on impossible at 80 kph. I know I try to do this all the time!
discool
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Oh dear what a pain.
Something seems iffy to me, gearbox electronics or lack of engine power to help compensate for inclines/ hills, but then I’ve never owned a Td5 so may be normal, there a need for other opinions.
The D1 Tdi was never good match to the auto gearbox of its day unlike petrol engine.
My 3.5 RR locked up at somewhere around 45 mph so that was a pain, the engine couldn’t cope with lock-up at that lowest speed, so the vehicle slowed on inclines and I had move the selector from D into position 3 and drop down a ratio, or I couldn’t press on the pedal and increase the vehicle speed and so automatically drop a ratio, or even go into kick-down, speed cameras always seemed to be positioned on hills back then.
No issues with a 3.9 it takes every thing in its stride
Something seems iffy to me, gearbox electronics or lack of engine power to help compensate for inclines/ hills, but then I’ve never owned a Td5 so may be normal, there a need for other opinions.
The D1 Tdi was never good match to the auto gearbox of its day unlike petrol engine.
My 3.5 RR locked up at somewhere around 45 mph so that was a pain, the engine couldn’t cope with lock-up at that lowest speed, so the vehicle slowed on inclines and I had move the selector from D into position 3 and drop down a ratio, or I couldn’t press on the pedal and increase the vehicle speed and so automatically drop a ratio, or even go into kick-down, speed cameras always seemed to be positioned on hills back then.
No issues with a 3.9 it takes every thing in its stride
Si Click
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680 sounds fine, but you need to compare it to the MAP reading. You should be getting ambient (AAP output) plus about 230 on the MAP. Much less than this suggests that your boost pressure is not making it to the inlet manifold.
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+1 ^^^ Forgot to mention the MAP may be as much the problem as the MAF, then there is totherun in the airbox, can't remember its name, IAP?
Si Click
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AAP.
If you have a 15p engine then MAF is critical, if you have a 10p engine then MAP is critical.
If you have a 15p engine then MAF is critical, if you have a 10p engine then MAP is critical.
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Great info. I think mine is a 10p as it is a 2000 model, so I'll look more closely at the MAP, but changing the MAF for a good one certainly made a difference. Also my diagnostic has not mentioned the MAP so I am hoping it is OK.
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I don't think it is a problem with the gearbox, for once! Although some people say the whole car goes better with the Torque converter for a V8 and Ashcroft do a conversion for it. But driving in the UK, with the existing speed limits, it is fine, In France with the old speed limit of 90 kph on their equivalent of A-roads was a bit of a pain, it is just since stupid Micron decided it would be a good idea to drop the 90 limit to 80 to try and save a few lives. However, the French have now decided the blanket 80 is doing no good, but instead of reinstating the 90 back where it used to be, the buck has been passed to the regions and the departments, so they can individually decide where they are going to reinstate it. Only French bureaucrats can be so stupid! They still won't save any lives with it. French drivers are too often complete winkers and their ability to not overtake where it is safe but to overtake where it is completely unsafe, has to be seen to be believed. Every week there are reports in the local papers of car crashes and how they happened. They never make sense. We take for granted the fact that the UK has the safest drivers in the world and that is why our insurance premiums are the lowest in the world.Oh dear what a pain.
Something seems iffy to me, gearbox electronics or lack of engine power to help compensate for inclines/ hills, but then I’ve never owned a Td5 so may be normal, there a need for other opinions.
The D1 Tdi was never good match to the auto gearbox of its day unlike petrol engine.
My 3.5 RR locked up at somewhere around 45 mph so that was a pain, the engine couldn’t cope with lock-up at that lowest speed, so the vehicle slowed on inclines and I had move the selector from D into position 3 and drop down a ratio, or I couldn’t press on the pedal and increase the vehicle speed and so automatically drop a ratio, or even go into kick-down, speed cameras always seemed to be positioned on hills back then.
No issues with a 3.9 it takes every thing in its stride
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So nice to hear an actual owner driver talking about their experience of the V8 torque converter on a TD5. I had been thinking of it, but mine is not tuned and I really don't think I can justify the cost of both the tune and the conversion. Still very interesting to read what you say.
215 on map no leak found
Si Click
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215 sounds a little low for a D2 (about right for a Defender), whereas the turbo output at 680 sounds very healthy. All that air has gone somewhere and if not into the inlet manifold then where?
Hence wondering sensors.
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Any chance one of your tubes has collapsed internally?
Henry_b
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My TD5 is an Auto and TBH it suits it.
The TD5's tendency to rev the tits out of itself is annoying but after a while you get used to it, even with a manual one you have to bring it up the rev range to get the HP/TQ out of it.
MPG varies In town I get 26mpg and on a run the best i've seen is 34mpg.
Towing i've got as low as 15 but that was fully loaded in 2nd with the pedal to the metal.
My V8 Range Rover would lock up at 45 IIRC and pull really hard it rarely went above 2200rpm when accelerating so long as you didn't matt it.
Hmm.
V8.
The TD5's tendency to rev the tits out of itself is annoying but after a while you get used to it, even with a manual one you have to bring it up the rev range to get the HP/TQ out of it.
MPG varies In town I get 26mpg and on a run the best i've seen is 34mpg.
Towing i've got as low as 15 but that was fully loaded in 2nd with the pedal to the metal.
My V8 Range Rover would lock up at 45 IIRC and pull really hard it rarely went above 2200rpm when accelerating so long as you didn't matt it.
Hmm.
V8.
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