Disco 2 Chassis waxoyl time

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
dieseldog69 said:
One side down and one to go with added joy of the rear door pillar being rotted out too :(

Waxoyl needs the thin white spirit to make it more fluid and give it better creep and then it ought evaporate off to leave a good waterproof coating, the Dinitrol needs a thin machinist oil to help it get into all the crevices, or if you are like an old farmer friend who bought a Hi-Lux brand new in 1988 and every 6 months or so he filled up his mist cannon and drenched the underside of his motor and he drilled a hole in the back of the sills and filled them to about 3/4 full of oil to slosh around in there, it's still alive today and all it's ever had is regular 3000 mile oil changes and 20,000 mile gearbox and axle oil changes.
Click to expand...
Those Hilux have been a phenomena haven't they?
Remember the one on Top Gear? You still see the odd older type even now.
If I were a rich man I'd just drive new cars and wouldn't worry myself about rot. Unfortunately though!
 
berg450 said:
I have similar opinion like lynall. Last year I have also fully cleaned the back 3rd of the chassis but only passivated and painted. I keep an eye on it and if somewhere get worse I can repair.
I am not against underseal but has to be done by specialist and after very careful and precise preparation.
Click to expand...
OK I can see that.
It looks good and is protecting the steel.
Its given me the idea that I should paint and under seal now. Because I may disturb the underseal when I fit the tank back.
The main purpose of the waxoyl however in my opinion is to get inside the chassis. I'm less worried about the outside coz I can see it, well apart from the bit where the tank goes which is why i've started there.
 
Bantam1 said:
OK I can see that.
It looks good and is protecting the steel.
Its given me the idea that I should paint and under seal now. Because I may disturb the underseal when I fit the tank back.
The main purpose of the waxoyl however in my opinion is to get inside the chassis. I'm less worried about the outside coz I can see it, well apart from the bit where the tank goes which is why i've started there.
Click to expand...


I should have said i do wax my chassis, I am not against it, just dont believe the hype that its a one off treatment, after all the people telling you this are selling it for more than you can buy the gun/compresssor/wax for! but it needs tlc every year or two, less if I dont do many miles
If used off road its still worth doing as it makes the chassis easier to clean

The D3 models are staritng to get rusty cills and my 06 is no exception, so I have literally just waxed them with some added engine oil, when I do the front arms in the next few weeks the whole car will get the treatment.
With the sealey wax gun its fast and easy to do, if somewhat messy!
 
As far as Waxoiling goes, I have heard of professionals who spread a huge tarp under the car, thin it with White spirit, find appropriate holes and pour the Waxoyl in by the gallon, absolutely filling the chassis, to make sure of adequate preparation. They make holes in the sealed box sections then plug them afterwards with special plastic plugs like you used to see on cars that had been Ziebarted.
They then recuperate the Waxoyl that comes out and presumably filter it and reuse it.
Must admit, when I tested the lance that came with the Waxoyl kit, it was completely useless and I could tell it was never going to do the job properly, so I made my own lance and tested it thoroughly before using it.
Ever heard of using exterior gloss paint on chassis? Some people swear by it as it flexes rather than cracking like underseal which is just a way of concealing rust and/or sealing it in to ensure your welding job becomes a complete nightmare. What about old fashioned chassis black. Anyone still use that?
 
Stanleysteamer said:
As far as Waxoiling goes, I have heard of professionals who spread a huge tarp under the car, thin it with White spirit, find appropriate holes and pour the Waxoyl in by the gallon, absolutely filling the chassis, to make sure of adequate preparation. They make holes in the sealed box sections then plug them afterwards with special plastic plugs like you used to see on cars that had been Ziebarted.
They then recuperate the Waxoyl that comes out and presumably filter it and reuse it.
Must admit, when I tested the lance that came with the Waxoyl kit, it was completely useless and I could tell it was never going to do the job properly, so I made my own lance and tested it thoroughly before using it.
Ever heard of using exterior gloss paint on chassis? Some people swear by it as it flexes rather than cracking like underseal which is just a way of concealing rust and/or sealing it in to ensure your welding job becomes a complete nightmare. What about old fashioned chassis black. Anyone still use that?
Click to expand...
Looking at Berg450's work he has painted his chassis and given that there are many clever rust inhibiting and treating paints on the market and those paints can be very tough indeed its worth considering for the outside.
 
Bantam1 said:
Looking at Berg450's work he has painted his chassis and given that there are many clever rust inhibiting and treating paints on the market and those paints can be very tough indeed its worth considering for the outside.
Click to expand...
I have used Smoothrite in the past, and apparently it is the only paint you are allowed to use on LPG tanks if you want to keep your certification. But nothing works for ever and you have to be very clever about how you use Smoothright. Especially if trying to use it upside down. They only guarantee its performance if you follow their instructions to the letter, about getting sufficient thickness of paint on the metal. The second coat MUST go on in the time specified.
But then it can crack, flake off and only penetrates rust to a very thin extent.
 
lynall said:
Underseal is and always has been crap of the highest order.
It has killed more cars than it has saved.
What happens is it gets a wound and water gets behind it then the serious rot starts and you will be none the wiser until it is to late, think plastic coated garden funriture anything powder coated that lives oitside.
Click to expand...

No truer words were ever spoken - undersealing a car is a death sentence.

Here's a picture of my inner sill replaced 4 years ago with Easy-On panels - it was treated with Bilt Hamber Dynax S-50 inside and out, ( hence the large holes for access ) on ( de-greased ) bare metal ..... it hasn't been touched since ....
sill.jpg
 
It is just a death sentence on its own on any rusty metal..

I myself bilt hamber hydrated 80 on the rust to neutralise the corrosion and then used Waxoyl+chain oil+whitespirts to make my own solution!

time will tell if it works!

The floor i left to the clear stuff as the chassis will prolly need replacement anyway and i can see any rust starting.

should also mention i used the brush on stuff too on the chassis and then clear waxoyed over that!!
iydRL1Il.jpg

iydRL1Il.jpg

oZeWQXGl.jpg

RCHXXSIl.jpg


Just for comparison this is My P38 chassis..

Same age and a seaside car its whole life.

z5cmd0ml.jpg


R9hckh8l.jpg


Pretty much like new, don't know why D2 couldn't be done to the same extent but it's LR so eh..

T'was cleaned and treated.

U4oIFcwl.jpg


Tk78JIgl.jpg

4pP8QjRl.jpg

Dinitrol on this one..
 
berg450 said:
I have similar opinion like lynall. Last year I have also fully cleaned the back 3rd of the chassis but only passivated and painted. I keep an eye on it and if somewhere get worse I can repair.
I am not against underseal but has to be done by specialist and after very careful and precise preparation.
Click to expand...
Looks very tidy. I think a decent paint is best for outside of chassis but it is hard to stop the chassis rotting inside.
 
warming the waxoyl up really does help, plenty of air pressure and dont be scared of soaking it, it has to be the most ****tyest job to do, so i go crazy with it, lifting it upo with the telehandler really helps, ive done my hilux and the last disco or 2, this one is about ready to go up so will take pics, picture is the first one i did many moons ago,
 

Attachments

  • disco 11 4thsept 2011 001.jpg
    disco 11 4thsept 2011 001.jpg
    269.4 KB · Views: 104
OK finished from rear end up to and a little beyond the rear springs and have put the tank back and all is well.
The Sealey waxoyl spray kit is brilliant. Never have I been more happy with the waxoyl application than with this Sealey kit, well worth the price.
So the rear end now has metal paint on chassis outer and paint on waxoyl underseal over the top after first blowing waxoyl into every crevice and corner I could find.
Also injected internally in the chassis and bodywork rails and painted up all the underside of the body work too.
Well happy that its had a good coat everywhere it needs it.
Next weekend ill be working from rear springs towards front end.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Neptune1922
Disco 2 At the moment following a new chassis on Feb 1st I now have quiescent problem.
Replies
7
Views
426
Neptune1922
Neptune1922
T
Disco 2 Chassis welding advice - near rear trailing arm bracket
Replies
6
Views
1K
frostythor
frostythor
M
DEFENDER 90 PICKUP
Replies
4
Views
531
mpd2378
M
D
Bumper removal and spotlight question
Replies
14
Views
882
Anaconda
A
Wagon Loon
Chassis repairs and rusty bits on Peggy the ex farmy pick-up
2
Replies
39
Views
2K
Wagon Loon
Wagon Loon
Back
Top