Freelander 2 acceleration issue

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Hippo said:
I disagree.

Apply full demand at the pedal when stationary... The protection from the computer is only momentarily untill it unleashes full power due to request/demand. That doesn't protect the engine. It gives the driver the opertunity to realise the mistake and remove request (foot).

When full power is demanded it's suddenly available. How long does it take a FL auto to hit max power output from the engine in 1st gear? Theres no measurable soft start effect. It unleashes power at an astonishing rate. The FL2 SD4 makes the FL1 v6 feel slow.

Sudden max power means high stress, regardless of it being within the spec of what the FL can mechanically cope with. Now add in gear changes at the top end of power output available... as speed increases... Thats not good for the FL, especially the auto. Its not good for any vehicle. Others like mercs are more able to cope with it but will still suffer the effects. Yer can do it but the more yer do, the more wear/pressure yer put it under. That's not good for any vehicle.

Sadly peeps read what I put on ere which is why I gave the warning not to do it as someone will assume they can drive it like it's stolen, at max performance, and get away with it. Yer can for a bit but then faults will appear. The long-term life of the FL is at risk if it is worked harder.

On this occasion I'm curious to know if the FL's performance is generally sluggish or the owner thinks it is. A one fast acceleration which doesn't need to be max acceleration.
Click to expand...
Jeez, thought I was a Nana.

OP should give it an Italian tuneup and report findings. ECU will make sure there's not too much power put in a lower revs and make sure it doesn't over rev.

Caveat 1 : One should never exceed the speed limit, especially if there's plod around.
Caveat 2 : If it breaks, OP should have listened to @Hippo.
 
I had a auto transmission fluid leak in my Kia once, got the leak fixed and found the AT fluid recommended by Kia was very expensive so just put ordinary fluid in it. I did a complete drain and refill. I found afterwards
I had exactly the same problem as the OP, a second or two delay before the power came in. It was definately noticeable. Reluctantly, I drained and refilled with the Kia recommended fluid and all was well. I can't remember exactly how much the fluid cost but it was over £100

Col
 
I should repeat that my Freelander has exactly the same performance as the brand new Disco the LR dealer let me drive. I am sad to say that I am convinced there is absolutely nothing wrong with my FL. Its just the way they are and i need to get used to it

I am tempted with an ECU remap though. Has anybody tried this?
 
No Discovery has the exact same engine / transmission layout as a Freelander 2.

Discovery Sport uses the 2.2 SD4 unit in the early versions but mates to a 9 speed automatic or a 6 speed manual.

If you’re happy / convinced that’s it’s normal operation then that’s all that matters
 
GrumpyGel said:
Jeez, thought I was a Nana.

OP should give it an Italian tuneup and report findings. ECU will make sure there's not too much power put in a lower revs and make sure it doesn't over rev.

Caveat 1 : One should never exceed the speed limit, especially if there's plod around.
Caveat 2 : If it breaks, OP should have listened to @Hippo.
Click to expand...
Not something I would agree to do. 70mph constant is enough to give it a work out and a run. If yer treat it like yer stole it round brands hatch, the auto computer will adjust gear timing and adapt to suit. Change gear like this enough times (near or full power accelerating) and when yer back to normal speeds int car park it will take a while to learn and adjust again, causing pronounced gear changes. There's no need to Italian service a car. It's a placebo effect of making yer feel good about yer motor.
 
I had an issue similar to this just recently.first fix was a replacement fuel pump....not the fault
Second time investigation but no pinpoint on problem ...third time went to a different LR garage they traced the fault to the accelerator pedal sensor inspected that and the wiring of the pedal...
They then did a software update and since then no issue but it's only been a couple of weeks since they had the car
 
Mungojerry said:
I had an issue similar to this just recently.first fix was a replacement fuel pump....not the fault
Second time investigation but no pinpoint on problem ...third time went to a different LR garage they traced the fault to the accelerator pedal sensor inspected that and the wiring of the pedal...
They then did a software update and since then no issue but it's only been a couple of weeks since they had the car
Click to expand...
Thanks for letting us know
 
I've always had that little pause before it zooms off which is a bit of a pain at roundabouts etc. I think it is probably frowned upon but in urgent situations I find a left foot on the brake and a right foot picking up the revs just everso slightly (say up to 1k rpm) results in it going like a rocket when you remove the left foot and floor the other. *disclaimer* Of course if you did this for too long or with too much revs you would risk wrecking your auto box I am sure!
 
Hippo said:
I disagree.
Scottc3000 said:
Hi all
I'm new to this community and new to the world of Landy. I just bought a 2007 Freelander 2 HSE automatic. It was a bargain and in fantastic condition and i love it.

It goes great in normal driving but seems really slow when I pull away from a standing start. There is kind of a pause where it goes dead slow for around 2 seconds when i pull away then it it picks up and accelerates fine.

I got a mechanic to look at it but he thought it was fine. He checked over everything on the turbo and said that was fine. Is this just the way these freelanders are? I can't really believe that it should be so slow pulling from still. I find it really dangerous pulling out into moving traffic.

I get exactly the same thing in manual mode. Tried pulling away in first and second gear. Same dead slow 2 seconds then revs pick up

Any ideas anybody, some clues would be a great help

Cheers
Scott
Scottc3000 said:
Hi all
I'm new to this community and new to the world of Landy. I just bought a 2007 Freelander 2 HSE automatic. It was a bargain and in fantastic condition and i love it.

It goes great in normal driving but seems really slow when I pull away from a standing start. There is kind of a pause where it goes dead slow for around 2 seconds when i pull away then it it picks up and accelerates fine.

I got a mechanic to look at it but he thought it was fine. He checked over everything on the turbo and said that was fine. Is this just the way these freelanders are? I can't really believe that it should be so slow pulling from still. I find it really dangerous pulling out into moving traffic.

I get exactly the same thing in manual mode. Tried pulling away in first and second gear. Same dead slow 2 seconds then revs pick up

Any ideas anybody, some clues would be a great help

Cheers
Scott
Click to expand...
Dear Scott
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
I have the exactly identical problem after EGR was removed for a possible water leak. Did you find the fault?
Hippo said:
Apply full demand at the pedal when stationary... The protection from the computer is only momentarily untill it unleashes full power due to request/demand. That doesn't protect the engine. It gives the driver the opertunity to realise the mistake and remove request (foot).

When full power is demanded it's suddenly available. How long does it take a FL auto to hit max power output from the engine in 1st gear? Theres no measurable soft start effect. It unleashes power at an astonishing rate. The FL2 SD4 makes the FL1 v6 feel slow.

Sudden max power means high stress, regardless of it being within the spec of what the FL can mechanically cope with. Now add in gear changes at the top end of power output available... as speed increases... Thats not good for the FL, especially the auto. Its not good for any vehicle. Others like mercs are more able to cope with it but will still suffer the effects. Yer can do it but the more yer do, the more wear/pressure yer put it under. That's not good for any vehicle.

Sadly peeps read what I put on ere which is why I gave the warning not to do it as someone will assume they can drive it like it's stolen, at max performance, and get away with it. Yer can for a bit but then faults will appear. The long-term life of the FL is at risk if it is worked harder.

On this occasion I'm curious to know if the FL's performance is generally sluggish or the owner thinks it is. A one fast acceleration which doesn't need to be max acceleration.
Click to expand...
 
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