New found wheel nut problem.

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Maverick2518

Active Member
Posts
108
Location
East Sussex
Hi all!

It’s the weekend so of course that means, let’s all work on our land rovers!

I’m so close to getting mine on the road now but, in true series fashion, I’ve hit a snag!

I’ve come to learn that when you have parts from 3 different landys, you end up with a bit of a mongrel.

My 2a currently has s3 axels and wella 8 spokes on it. However, one corner has been replaced, probably by myself (due to lack of knowledge), with a s2 hub. Unbeknown to me, until the 11th hour, I didn’t pay much attention, and now I have come to note the difference in wheel nut thicknesses, and how the wheel doesn’t seat properly.

My question is... does anybody know, before I go and buy the wrong bits, if I can change s2 threads to s3, or do I need to source a s3 hub?

Many thanks
 
I think the wheel studs just knock out don't they? Although that sounds easier than it really is. I'd measure the hub and studs in your 2a hub and compare with the 3 hub. I doubt if LR made many changes between the two models. In fact I'm surprised the studs are a different length between the two models. Is the axle in question a Salisbury or Rover?

Col
 
There was a change in wheel stud size somewhere in the middle of 2a production from screw in studs and smaller wheel nuts [ my 63 has the small] to press in studs and larger wheel nuts [ same as series 3 ] . Swap the hub is simplest.
 
Why doesn't the wheel seat properly, I thought wheels were interchangeable up to the 1990's?
 
Thanks for your replies guys, I hadn’t got the notifications that anyone had answered :(.

So I should’ve clarified, if the stud diameter, not the length. I’ll get some pics.

Mav.
 
These are, what I’m lead to believe, the series 3 studs
 

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2A are BSF with double ended nuts, S3 are M16 with bigger single ended nuts. Same wheels and (now) brake drums fit both as the cone on the nut plus the axlel centre are what holds the wheel. Yes you can get a set of S3 studs and fit them (I have done this as I had 3xS2a and one x S3. Now I run S3 rear and S2 front and will change the front next time its apart. Don't underestimate it. You have to unthread the old studs which takes a lot of force as thaey are stracked over on the back, then drill the flange 16 mm (the s3 studs have a raised knurl that locks them) then you must drill the flange 19 mm x 3 mm deep on the back to take the s3 stud heads, if you don't do this the studs are 3 mm too short and the stud doesn't clear the wheel nut. In your situation I've be inclined to get a used S3 hub and get a set the same that way.
 
And these are the series 2.

The pictures aren’t great, so I do apologise for that, but I think you can make out the notable difference.

Mav.
 

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2A are BSF with double ended nuts, S3 are M16 with bigger single ended nuts. Same wheels and (now) brake drums fit both as the cone on the nut plus the axlel centre are what holds the wheel. Yes you can get a set of S3 studs and fit them (I have done this as I had 3xS2a and one x S3. Now I run S3 rear and S2 front and will change the front next time its apart. Don't underestimate it. You have to unthread the old studs which takes a lot of force as thaey are stracked over on the back, then drill the flange 16 mm (the s3 studs have a raised knurl that locks them) then you must drill the flange 19 mm x 3 mm deep on the back to take the s3 stud heads, if you don't do this the studs are 3 mm too short and the stud doesn't clear the wheel nut. In your situation I've be inclined to get a used S3 hub and get a set the same that way.

Cheers rob. Sounds like a pain of a job indeed!

I’ll have to keep an eye out for a s3 hub then I guess...sounds easier!

Anybody have one laying about? Haha
 
If its 2A axles you need ealry 3 hubs with different bearings. Since it has a 2A hub I'd guess its ealry S3 you are after. You can run it as it is for now, the wheels should pull up ok as they all fit both hubs, the only problem are the orginal Wolf wheels as they are thicker.
 
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