What did you do with your Range Rover today

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After a 2 week trip to the states, started first turn of the key. I was worried because someone had fitted a battery disconnector so thought it might suffer battery drain but thankfully not!
 
New steering damper, anti roll bushes and links, air filter, pollen filter, cruise control vacuum pipes replaced, locking wheel nuts replaced, wheel nut set put on (had some 28mm some 27mm??), Bolt drilled out in exhaust and replaced to stop really bad blowing, new steering box, unceased rear offside caliper. Bought a P38 the other day and it was sat idle for months and needed some serious tlc. On 85k on the clock and the engine is mint, nice easy fixes so either back on autotrader... Or I might just keep this one.

Keep it. Wheel nuts 27mm but sometimes corrode under the chrome caps and swell.
 
When I rebuilt my hubs after replacing the ball joints,I elongated the hole in the dust shield so the sensor can stay in place if I ever had to strip it down again which I did not so long ago to replace the diff.;):D
The shield that raps around the gear on the CV? Otherwise I can't picture what you mean.

Not a bad idea tbh, I'd hate to have to do this again. I could've probably done it faster than I am doing (not even got the diff out yet), but everything is such a ball ache. And some genius coated the 4 bolts retaining the hub on one side with so much copper slip, had dried up and filled the threads with crude.

Also, I feel at the last service I put in the wrong diff oil, as there was a lot of grey paste on the drain plug which I can only assume is the diff oil gone bad and probably the reason behind me doing this job.
 
The shield that raps around the gear on the CV? Otherwise I can't picture what you mean.

Not a bad idea tbh, I'd hate to have to do this again. I could've probably done it faster than I am doing (not even got the diff out yet), but everything is such a ball ache. And some genius coated the 4 bolts retaining the hub on one side with so much copper slip, had dried up and filled the threads with crude.

Also, I feel at the last service I put in the wrong diff oil, as there was a lot of grey paste on the drain plug which I can only assume is the diff oil gone bad and probably the reason behind me doing this job.
The domed cover for the reluctor ring.when you pull it apart you will see a hole where the abs sensor goes through, sorry I've lost Rave and I forgot to take pictures.hopefully someone will post diagram /photo.
 
FTC3548.jpg
 
Thanks, more it will have then, if it stays on okay.

The last adjustment of the pump must be toward the engine? I think he means the one cam lobe you can see through the oil cap.

I finally sussed that out after playing around with the pump and the DTI. So I did towards the engine then too far away then brought it in slowly to 0.9mm towards the engine.

Anyway it can wait, the MV is getting love and attention today. Bigger bar end weights fitted, new oil and my new patented ;):cool: mod to the nose cone/mirror stanchions where the lugs always bloody snap off. Went back on first go and now no arsing about for hours getting the indicators to line up (spring loaded brass contacts. Good idea, not good with the bits that shear off under use).:D
 
Finished at last, as I was putting it back together I found why my handbrake isn't perfect, but that is a fix for another day as I've already spent 14 hours working on the ol' girl this weekend.

I really wouldn't want to do that job again any time soon, maybe it would've been quicker if the abs sensor didn't break on me, as I really lost interest in working after that. I honest spent the rest of the disassembly fearing a bolt would shear on me.

But my God I need to invest in a better oil pump, filling a diff with a 20ml syringe takes a while.
 

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Sprayed the yellow connectors on the srs under the seats and the belt pretensioners and changed both bulbs in dash still not resolved srs light still on intermittent
 
Also, a trick to pop a ballpoint, strike the metal work where the BJ stud goes through with a hammer. One or two good hits and it'll pop straight off. By the book you shouldn't do it, but that assumes your parts are made of toffee, or you miss and hit something important.

Yeah did that, it worked on two of them. This worked a treat though

BJ splitter.jpg



Started with these tools

Tool selection.jpg


Ended up like this

more tools.jpg


Nice fresh grease

new grease.jpg


Decided to do both boots while I was in there

New boots.jpg
 

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And some genius coated the 4 bolts retaining the hub on one side with so much copper slip, had dried up and filled the threads with crude.

Also, I feel at the last service I put in the wrong diff oil, as there was a lot of grey paste on the drain plug which I can only assume is the diff oil gone bad and probably the reason behind me doing this job.

Those 4 bolts are f*ckers. Ease off, hammer, ease off, hammer, ease off, hammer ...

Grey paste not sealant? I've heard people advise sealant on the diff oil plug although never used any myself.
 
Finished at last, as I was putting it back together I found why my handbrake isn't perfect, but that is a fix for another day as I've already spent 14 hours working on the ol' girl this weekend.

I really wouldn't want to do that job again any time soon, maybe it would've been quicker if the abs sensor didn't break on me, as I really lost interest in working after that. I honest spent the rest of the disassembly fearing a bolt would shear on me.

But my God I need to invest in a better oil pump, filling a diff with a 20ml syringe takes a while.
Go to JTF they sell a syphon pump for about £2 through away after use but who cares 1 min to fill diff. Did both of mine dead easy
 
Yeah did that, it worked on two of them. This worked a treat though

I suppose it is better than my backup option of putting the nut back on the stud and smack the **** out of it.

Those 4 bolts are f*ckers. Ease off, hammer, ease off, hammer, ease off, hammer ...

Grey paste not sealant? I've heard people advise sealant on the diff oil plug although never used any myself.
They were a bastard.

It had the consistency of a metallic paste, like the old arctic silver theme paste. Maybe the old oil emulsified and mixed with metal shavings? Ah well, in the past now.

Land Rover does recommend using Hylomar on the threads. Which now that I think about it, I forgot to do it. Bugger. Hope I don't get a leak.

Go to JTF they sell a syphon pump for about £2 through away after use but who cares 1 min to fill diff. Did both of mine dead easy
I'll have to get a couple for my toolbox. I can't be doing 20ml at a time again. Thanks.
 
I suppose it is better than my backup option of putting the nut back on the stud and smack the **** out of it.


They were a bastard.

It had the consistency of a metallic paste, like the old arctic silver theme paste. Maybe the old oil emulsified and mixed with metal shavings? Ah well, in the past now.

Land Rover does recommend using Hylomar on the threads. Which now that I think about it, I forgot to do it. Bugger. Hope I don't get a leak.


I'll have to get a couple for my toolbox. I can't be doing 20ml at a time again. Thanks.

Grey makes me wonder if water has got in? Done any wading?

I've never had a leak.

Filling oil etc. I borrowed something like this off MrGorsky last time. Very good.

Amazon product
 
For my atf I bought a garden sprayer from screwfix for about 15 quid, worked a treat. I guess it would be slower with diff oil but will still work.
 
15 quid? That's expensive, paid €7.50 for my last one. Works with diff oil if the spray arm is removed so you just have the pipe.
Needed one quick that would hold enough to fill the box in one hit.
Ideal because you can start and stop it whilst under the car. I'll put a pic of it up.
I'll be doing my diff oil soon so I'll know if it works OK or not!
 
Grey makes me wonder if water has got in? Done any wading?

I've never had a leak.

Filling oil etc. I borrowed something like this off MrGorsky last time. Very good.

Amazon product

Not for a while, other than driving in absolute pouring rain and the standing water that comes with that. I'll keep an eye on it when I do my next service, but I hope it was just something with the old diff.

That looks like a good shout, I suspect it'll take a little bit of dirty action.
 
The shield that raps around the gear on the CV? Otherwise I can't picture what you mean.

Not a bad idea tbh, I'd hate to have to do this again. I could've probably done it faster than I am doing (not even got the diff out yet), but everything is such a ball ache. And some genius coated the 4 bolts retaining the hub on one side with so much copper slip, had dried up and filled the threads with crude.

Also, I feel at the last service I put in the wrong diff oil, as there was a lot of grey paste on the drain plug which I can only assume is the diff oil gone bad and probably the reason behind me doing this job.

Just realised you have a 322, I'm sure I saw P38 mentioned somewhere. :oops:
 
Just realised you have a 322, I'm sure I saw P38 mentioned somewhere. :oops:
No, I have a P38. I didn't elongate the hole in the end, but feel I might grow to regret that in the future. I just wanted it back together and out of the workshop.
 
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